The Official CS Lancer Thread!

ZeroOne · Postby **ZeroOne** » December 5th, 2009, 5:33 pm

turbo_beast369 wrote:A.W.O.L whey yuh dey??? he changed his timing belt and tensioner on his 4G15 GDI a few weeks ago...I cant remember where he got them from....he will have the part numbers...

Still waiting on those part numbers

evil_gdi · Postby **evil_gdi** » December 5th, 2009, 6:44 pm

Looking for some help on this topic...

My mech informs me that my engine check light is based on a low fuel pressure reading.. AKA the fuel pump located in the engine gone thru!!!

Says the best thing is a swap out of the engine to the one used by the CS3 and that there is not much adjustment to be done.. this should run me to ~$8000.00

If anyone can reliably inform me if this pump is the same as a fuel pressure regulator and is it safe to buy one from an American site?

Reason I ask is that I was checking out the www.oemmitsubishiparts.com site and came across this --

http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/partl ... atalogid=1 --

which I am desperately hoping is the part in question.

gimme a holler..

ZeroOne · Postby **ZeroOne** » December 5th, 2009, 6:51 pm

He dont know he head from he foot first thing you need is the fuel pump P/N. (If it gone through that is).

A.W.O.L · Postby **A.W.O.L** » December 5th, 2009, 7:05 pm

ZeroOne,sorry bout that... :oops:

timinn belt p/n--MD368413
crankshaft oil seal p/n--MD377999
camshaft oil seal p/n--MD372536
The guy from DM say u dont necessarily need to change the tensioner unless it really goin bad...

evil_gdi · Postby **evil_gdi** » December 5th, 2009, 7:07 pm

well that part ah not sure about (whether it gone thru or not)

I asked if he would not mind checking the filter but in the interim I am looking around for that fuel pump in case I really have to replace it and I really not too much into the idea of swapping out the engine....

ZeroOne · Postby **ZeroOne** » December 5th, 2009, 7:31 pm

A.W.O.L, Thanks a million.

How much you paid for those parts?

fras, can you add those P/N's to the 1st post?

Those are for the 4g15 GDI.

A.W.O.L · Postby **A.W.O.L** » December 5th, 2009, 7:36 pm

^^^the total was $828.00 that's wit discount..

suzieboy · Postby **suzieboy** » December 6th, 2009, 1:35 am

iam lookin to convert to rear disk
i heard that the Ck set can fit the CS2 bolt for bolt...can anyone confirm this an how much is a foreign used set?
Any one got any?

ZeroOne · Postby **ZeroOne** » December 6th, 2009, 7:24 am

Fellas i fine i getting a little rough idle, engine sounding a little rough and the car vibrateing a little bit.

All the mounts were changed to OEM about 6 months ago.

Could the timeing belt and tensioner be causeing this?

turbo_beast369, for that knocking noise on the passenger wheel, did you check the caliper pin bushing?

ronsin1 · Postby **ronsin1** » December 6th, 2009, 7:53 am

evil_gdi wrote:Looking for some help on this topic...

My mech informs me that my engine check light is based on a low fuel pressure reading.. AKA the fuel pump located in the engine gone thru!!!

Says the best thing is a swap out of the engine to the one used by the CS3 and that there is not much adjustment to be done.. this should run me to ~$8000.00

If anyone can reliably inform me if this pump is the same as a fuel pressure regulator and is it safe to buy one from an American site?

Reason I ask is that I was checking out the www.oemmitsubishiparts.com site and came across this --

http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/partl ... atalogid=1 --

which I am desperately hoping is the part in question.

gimme a holler..

It does not necessarily have to be the fuel pump if you have a vacuum hose leak this may cause your check light to come of and during idle the car may cut off,

I went through this once and thought it was the pump told the Mech to check everything else before we changed the pump he found the hose that was leaking and changed that never had the problem since

KURMAman · Postby **KURMAman** » December 6th, 2009, 4:23 pm

i just changed my Michelins 205/55/15 off my lancer 2 weeks ago..lasted bout 2 1/2 years...plenty driving and rough road. the tyres started to cut across the grips. Took alot of licks, so was very happy with its performance.
Bought Dunlop DZ101..same size. i see alot of varying opinions bout these tyres, but my experience so far is that they feel very very reliable on the road..wet or dry.

btw, wheel bearings for we lancer expensive! larddddddd.

turbo_beast369 · Postby **turbo_beast369** » December 6th, 2009, 6:46 pm

ZeroOne, not passenger wheel, the driver's side wheel

we took out the pin and greased it up but the mech didnt really check the bushing...I didnt there was such a thing...

KURMAman what price you got quoted for the wheel bearings?

KURMAman · Postby **KURMAman** » December 6th, 2009, 6:53 pm

i had to change them 2 weeks ago, and only Diamond motors had them in stock. Had to pay $2000 for them. it make meh cry out of meh fingernails yes.. :cry:

turbo_beast369 · Postby **turbo_beast369** » December 6th, 2009, 8:30 pm

^^^^where you checked for them?

when I changed one side I payed $300 for it by federal...

cheaper if you go by a bearing company.....

KURMAman · Postby **KURMAman** » December 6th, 2009, 9:24 pm

doh be pulling my goat b@lls now eh!!! LARDDDDDDDDDDD. next time i buying parts for meh lancer, i calling u yes.

on a related note, what info can u give me bout shocks? i fine my car kinda running a lil rough...what brand..cost..etc is recommended.

idlemind · Postby **idlemind** » December 6th, 2009, 9:27 pm

yep confirmed, the rear discs from the CK6 works on the CS.

mite even get with ABS.

pm QuickPc's

A.W.O.L · Postby **A.W.O.L** » December 7th, 2009, 12:11 am

aye fellas i unscrew this from the floor where the gas pedal meets..so now it going down a lil further now and i gettin some more power now..
nothing too big to talk about but it's noticeable (150km/h @6000rpm)...but has any 1 done this...?

evil_gdi · Postby **evil_gdi** » December 7th, 2009, 12:32 am

I will ask him to check that too and see if it helps..

ronsin1 wrote:
evil_gdi wrote:Looking for some help on this topic...

My mech informs me that my engine check light is based on a low fuel pressure reading.. AKA the fuel pump located in the engine gone thru!!!

Says the best thing is a swap out of the engine to the one used by the CS3 and that there is not much adjustment to be done.. this should run me to ~$8000.00

If anyone can reliably inform me if this pump is the same as a fuel pressure regulator and is it safe to buy one from an American site?

Reason I ask is that I was checking out the www.oemmitsubishiparts.com site and came across this --

http://www.oemmitsubishiparts.com/partl ... atalogid=1 --

which I am desperately hoping is the part in question.

gimme a holler..

It does not necessarily have to be the fuel pump if you have a vacuum hose leak this may cause your check light to come of and during idle the car may cut off,

I went through this once and thought it was the pump told the Mech to check everything else before we changed the pump he found the hose that was leaking and changed that never had the problem since

turbo_beast369 · Postby **turbo_beast369** » December 7th, 2009, 7:45 am

KURMAman,

I tryin to figure out which shocks to put but I want a new car ride so I wanna go back with OEM

if you want to put replacements which rides good still, the front shock is KYB 333382 and the rear shock is KYB 341342

Black Primera got his shocks by Juteram's in Grande if i'm not mistaken....I from south so I cant give u directions

The front shock cost is $418 and rear shock is $430

KURMAman · Postby **KURMAman** » December 7th, 2009, 6:12 pm

thnx man turbo_beast369

got one kinda dumb question, i wanna buy those michelin frameless wipers, but last time i changed wipers, i put on the wrong size

. Anyone know whats the correct size? (2005 lancer) thnx

QG · Postby QG » December 7th, 2009, 11:10 pm

A.W.O.L, hmm, sounds interesting.

ZeroOne · Postby **ZeroOne** » December 8th, 2009, 6:09 am

A.W.O.L, ROFL :lol:

KURMAman, 24" and 18" and according to idle they work well.

turbo_beast369, did serviceing the calipers rectify the problem?

turbo_beast369 · Postby **turbo_beast369** » December 8th, 2009, 7:12 am

^^^well I just blowed out the dust with some compressed air, washed out the pads with some breeze and roughened it with some 120 sand paper...I didnt change any rubbers or anything..but the noise is still there...

I did talk to a mechanic yesterday and he also told me it could be the caliper pin bushing..I dunno if thats a part you can get or if you have to make in a machine shop...the pin also has some wear so it might really be that there is 2 much play...

A.W.O.L · Postby **A.W.O.L** » December 8th, 2009, 9:10 am

ZeroOne,try it an see :mrgreen:

teichou · Postby **teichou** » December 8th, 2009, 11:29 am

know where i cold get cs rear springs and the cost :?:

idlemind · Postby **idlemind** » December 8th, 2009, 4:46 pm

original or aftermarket?

venum · Postby **venum** » December 8th, 2009, 5:54 pm

A.W.O.L wrote:aye fellas i unscrew this from the floor where the gas pedal meets..so now it going down a lil further now and i gettin some more power now..
nothing too big to talk about but it's noticeable (150km/h @6000rpm)...but has any 1 done this...?

De ppl put that there to prevent u from bending the acc pedal and u take it out yes

A.W.O.L · Postby **A.W.O.L** » December 8th, 2009, 8:41 pm

venum wrote:
A.W.O.L wrote:aye fellas i unscrew this from the floor where the gas pedal meets..so now it going down a lil further now and i gettin some more power now..
nothing too big to talk about but it's noticeable (150km/h @6000rpm)...but has any 1 done this...?

De ppl put that there to prevent u from bending the acc pedal and u take it out yes