Noisy hydraulic tappets & Mitsu related *hiccups*

[krack korn]

have you checked the air flow sensor wiring? the ecu will detect the air flow at fault even if the wiring is at fault, it could even be the ecu. unlikely but possible.

[Halfbreed07]

how u does check dat jed?

[krack korn]

go see an electrician, one that has a Digital VOM and knows how to use it.

[Halfbreed07]

just to update u guys, i did a diagnostice yesterday and the code said the ignition coil is open so i guess i visiting an electrician staurday

i'll be changing plugs too this weekend, in the past i've been offered these two plugs:
NGK BKR6EKUC
NGK BK53
Which is the correct plug for the 1.8 GDI they cant both be the same ....

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

A lil off topic here...But just wanted to know when i use NP 50 body oil in my engine, why does it work better than the synthetic oils?

[Silvermike]

because it doesnt break down and evaporate out ure engine like the synthetics and other multigrades do.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

so better stick to that then....or is it a sign of something else

[Silvermike]

well... it could be u have excessive piston ring/bearin clearences... worn seals etc. but if the heavier oil works better for u... stick with it.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

due to wear right?>

[Silvermike]

^ more than likely.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

time for engine job....mivec parts....LARD!!

Thanks thoSilvermike,

[Silvermike]

Do a compression test.

the wear on the engine is fine, just use the heavier oil to compensate. once nothing is blown, or worn too badly, u will be fine.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

Ive been experimenting alot with it since all of a sudden i noticed a huge power loss and gas consumption is rediculous. Nothing showing wrong on the diagnostic check. Was told it may be MAP sensor, but nope seeing that it wouldve been smoking badly.
So i was contemplating my next move

[Silvermike]

more details on ure power loss plz.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

On acceleration i rev up to 6k, mivec kicks in as usual but on higher revs the extra pull ill normally get is not there.Where i used to get at least up to 50 kmh in 1st gear i now get up to about 30.

Basically it feels to me that the power is there but something is holding it back..As i said before the gas has gone crazy now...It almost feels like i have a choke or starvin for gas....

[Sanctifier]

because it doesnt break down and evaporate out ure engine like the synthetics and other multigrades do.

... Ahmm... Not quite mike
Synthetics and multi-grade mineral oils do offer more protection than straight-body oils.
Howerer they are also "over-hyped" to con owners with unmodified "daily drivers" to buy them IMHO.

Sleeper this might help... The Truth: ~ About Oil... and the BULLSH!T about it.

On acceleration i rev up to 6k, mivec kicks in as usual but on higher revs the extra pull ill normally get is not there.Where i used to get at least up to 50 kmh in 1st gear i now get up to about 30.

Basically it feels to me that the power is there but something is holding it back..As i said before the gas has gone crazy now...It almost feels like i have a choke or starvin for gas....

With no excesive smoke it sounds like something other than excessive piston-to-bore
clearance IMHO.
It almost feels like i have a choke or starvin for gas... Overheating fuel pump? Choked fuel filter?... damaged O2 sensor, fuel regulator or fuel sensor?
Detonation perhaps???... Check compression ratio like mike said... then check for blown head gasket... then ignition settings... etc. etc.

My $0.02¢

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

thanks for the info..will check above items listed and will update....the fuel filter is new....

[Silvermike]

O.K. wade. explain this.

i put 20W50 castrol. i drive hard for a track day. i loose 1/4 quart.

i put straight 50 castrol, i loose nothing after 3 track days.

also... its plain to see into lap 4, when everythings hot, my oil pressure drops off with the multigrade, but stays good with the straight 50.

[Sanctifier]

because it doesnt break down and evaporate out ure engine like the synthetics and other multigrades do.

The issue is not "evaporation"... its "better lubrication", more oil "burning" in the combustion chamber etc.
A multi-grade mineral oil has two main characteristics. At lower temperature it behaves like a lower viscosity (<--- link) monograde mineral oil. At higher temperature its similar to higher viscosity monograde (thicker) oil. This allows it to operate over a wider temperature range than monograde oil.

In your case (as for many 2nrs) you run a very high boost (18 psi max), high revving, short-stroke engine. So, very high combustion pressure that causes higher exhaust temperatures... High revs during competition... Heatsoak... More high revs... More heatsoak... Expansion (Increased ring-gap)... etc. etc.

Synthetics, with their smaller molecular structure "flow" even easier, over an even wider temperature range. You need a wider viscosity range than a monograde mineral oil IMHO.

Multigrades and more so synthetics are supposed to flow easier at lower temperatures. That's why it gets into areas that monograde oils won't be able to go at lower temperatures... including unfortunately (at higher temperatures) getting more easily into the combustion chamber (after expansion)... so "burning!"
Sludge forms more at lower temperatures (and short trips) than at higher temperatures (and longer trips.) So you're better protected before the engine reaches normal operating temperature... and at very high temperature too.

O.K. wade. explain this.
i put 20W50 castrol. i drive hard for a track day. i loose 1/4 quart.
i put straight 50 castrol, i loose nothing after 3 track days.
also... its plain to see into lap 4, when everythings hot, my oil pressure
drops off with the multigrade, but stays good with the straight 50.

^ ^ ^ I think it's more to do with pressure, heat, expansion, viscosity and a sign of increased engine wear IMHO... Which do you prefer? Having to "top-up" more frequently or rebuilding your engine more frequently? What you complain about is what the multi-grade (and even moreso the synthetic) was designed to do in the first place. It's just doing its job IMHO.

My $0.02¢

Questions/Answers from the real experts.

What are the advantages of a multigrade oil ?
A multigrade oil is one whose properties have been artificially modified to reduce changes in its viscosity with temperature changes. A multigrade oil will be more fluid at low temperatures and thicker at high temperatures than a monograde oil.
Concretely, that means that when the vehicle is not being used (for several hours), the engine oil sinks in the crankcase so that, on starting, it takes a certain amount of time (a few microseconds) to again reach all parts of the engine that need to be lubricated. Since a multigrade oil is more fluid at low temperatures, it reaches the various engine components more quickly than a monograde oil, thereby reducing wear on starting.
Multigrade oil allow "fuel savings" of 1.5% to 3% more than monograde oil
Multigrade oils provide better engine protection at low and high temperatures than monograde oils, in that they maintain optimum viscosity over the engine operating temperature range.

What causes oil pressure to drop ?
During normal vehicle operation, oil is vital to ensures leak tightness between the combustion chamber and the crankcase. The oil pressure indicator shows how well this is being done.
An unusual drop in oil pressure can result from either lower engine oil viscosity due to dilution by fuel (injector problem or use at low load) ; too little oil in the lubrication system (due to an oil leak, excess oil consumption, or failure of the oil circulation pump) ; or even mechanical part wear.

Total Oil's $0.25¢

[Silvermike]

sounds like alot of "thank you for smoking" to me.

have u ever come across studies on air water saturation and its effects on oils? in particular synthetics. im trying to find the one i had, but im not finding it. but in short, the high saturations aid in oil break down.

The issue is not "evaporation"... its "better lubrication", more oil "burning" in the combustion chamber etc.

so what ure saying is that when theres thermal break down of the oil, and its "buring", its lubricating better?

[Sanctifier]

have u ever come across studies on air water saturation and its effects on oils? in particular synthetics. im trying to find the one i had, but im not finding it. but in short, the high saturations aid in oil break down.

The issue is not "evaporation"... its "better lubrication", more oil "burning" in the combustion chamber etc.

so what ure saying is that when theres thermal break down of the oil, and its "buring", its lubricating better?

What I'm saying is that you need a leak-down test, or at the very least a compression test.
Maybe your oil pressure drop when hot is a sign of excessive wear, or at least too wide
a ring gap on assembly (or maybe insufficient "honing" at the machine shop before assembly.)
That (or worn valve stem seals for example) may be the cause of "thinner" multigrade oil getting into your combustion chamber.

If neither are the problem then look at fuel system and ECU. Evo ECUs always run too rich... especially when they pull timing (because of lower octane... detonation... whatever) to protect the engine.

BTW post article (or url) on water/air saturation. Sounds interesting. Thanks.

[Silvermike]

yea i need to find that article.

and its the civic, not the evo

if it was the evo, i would be taking this alot more seriously.

[~Vēġó~]

just to update u guys, i did a diagnostice yesterday and the code said the ignition coil is open so i guess i visiting an electrician staurday

i'll be changing plugs too this weekend, in the past i've been offered these two plugs:
NGK BKR6EKUC
NGK BK53
Which is the correct plug for the 1.8 GDI they cant both be the same ....

I only know of the NGK BKR6EKUC to be used......and that's what I have been using at all times.

Keep us updated on your progress.

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

well compression is gr8 guys..(thank god)
standard 11 for MIVEC across the board......fuel pump schecks tomorrow..


also i didnt mention LOTS &LOTS of backfiring??

[Silvermike]

ah ha!


ignition!! ure coil/ ure igniter/ ure wires/ ure plugs/ ure distributer cap

my guess is ure coils!

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

no distibuter
how do u check the coils?

[Silvermike]

look for whitish residue on them... especially at the seams.

u could borrow someoneelse's coils to test it out too.

[~Vēġó~]

^^^affirmative......

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

trying

[Mr. Red Sleeper]

would the 4g92 dohc coilpack work on my 4g92 MIVEC as well?