The Official CS Lancer Thread!

[ZeroOne]

turbo My present Kumho solus going on 3 years and not even half way worn.

Ive seen some good hankooks on wrightson rd 1k a pop may buy those.


venumUsing this guide.

Code: Select all

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/09q2/tire_test_nine_affordable_summer_tires_take_on_the_michelin_ps2-comparison_tests

[idlemind]

u really feel tyres would last 3-4 yrs, I doubt very much seein dat u wanna do a lil dexing with it...for d most yuh tyres could last a nice 2 yrs...d more expensive tyres have softer rubber compound for grip so doh be buyin racing tyres eh...

Was thinking the same thing, most I got my tyres to do was 2 years.
Remember your car getting older (10+ years) parts are going to start to affect the life on your tyres (bushings,ends,bearings,etc)

To me, spending real $$ on tyres will restrict what I do with the car knowing very well it will be money down the drain.

I prefer to buy a mid priced tyre and get a mix of safety and cost, while I can still afford to peel at the lights.

Oh and here's somethin to wet allyuh appetite. Jus a teaser fuh now.
Let me know if allyuh want tuh see more...

[turbo_beast369]

ZeroOne those Kumhos tend to last long becuz they are passenger tyres so dont expect any other tyre performance oriented tyre to last that long...make sure and look at the threadwear on the new tyres

[ZeroOne]

Cool. Will remember that.

Whats the difference between

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=387736&p=5552664#p5552664

and

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=369195&hilit=injector

[idlemind]

about $500 lol

[KURMAman]

hey ppl, i saw someone post up some shock absorberrs earlier in the thread:

FRONT LEFT: MR491430 041211
FRONT RIGHT: MR491430 041211
REAR LEFT\RIGHT: KAYABA 519006

Anyone knows whats the average price for them and to install? figure u all would have the best knowledge on this as, before now, iv never changed shocks yet on my cs3... (damn u munroe road commute)
Even better if u all recommend someone. thanx.

[A.W.O.L]

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=170555&p=5612491#p5612491

[idlemind]

Leave them that height

[A.W.O.L]

lol...seen..

[ZeroOne]

So 750 just to do a injector cleaning now??

BTW that will clean the HP pump in the engine too?

AWOL whats the specs on em HID's?

[A.W.O.L]

^^^
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=333074&p=5612950#p5612950

[ZeroOne]

Called a place today and asked for a quote for servicing the injectors on a GDI engine.

Guy said 1800-2200

He said they cannot clean those injectors like how they clean the other lancers.

They have to disassemble the intake manifold and take out the injectors then clean them outside the engine.

2200

[Big Z]

BTW that will clean the HP pump in the engine too?

The service that I offer will clean both the GDI pump and injectors.
There is no need to disassemble with the process utilized.

[venum]

Called a place today and asked for a quote for servicing the injectors on a GDI engine.

Guy said 1800-2200

He said they cannot clean those injectors like how they clean the other lancers.

They have to disassemble the intake manifold and take out the injectors then clean them outside the engine.

2200

my mech does it that way, because the GDI injectors are like diesel injectors, they spray directly into the cylinder so they are located lower down the head than normal injectors that spray into the intake manifold

yea the intake manifold has to be removed if you taking out the injectors

that is why mechs prefer to use the chemical closed loop system - less work, less potential for damage in removing the injectors

I have seen GDI injectors on a Galant that were attempted to be forcefully removed . . . with a hammer and chisel - not nice

[ZeroOne]

venum how much you pay to clean the injectors?

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^my mechanic did the closed loop thing... disconnected the line from the gas tank, hook it up to the pressurized can with the cleaner and let the engine run til it cut off. cost me around $200 and got everything cleaned up...



also, my A/C blew up this evening First i got a funny smell, which i was told was the evaporator busted. then tried to drive off and ended up with steam coming through my vents and engine temps soaring!

managed to drive it home with the radiator cap off, and parked it up. ron kindly offered to check it in the morning, before i took it anywhere else...

*sigh*... here i was thinking that the only thing i'd need to do with my A/C at the 100,000km mark was service and gas up First big fail on EVA in 3.2 years...

[idlemind]

sheit EVA that sucks...hope you didnt blow the head gasket with driving with the rad cap off.

See if your oil dipstick has bubbles of water in it.

[mety57]

^^^my mechanic did the closed loop thing... disconnected the line from the gas tank, hook it up to the pressurized can with the cleaner and let the engine run til it cut off. cost me around $200 and got everything cleaned up...



also, my A/C blew up this evening First i got a funny smell, which i was told was the evaporator busted. then tried to drive off and ended up with steam coming through my vents and engine temps soaring!

managed to drive it home with the radiator cap off, and parked it up. ron kindly offered to check it in the morning, before i took it anywhere else...

*sigh*... here i was thinking that the only thing i'd need to do with my A/C at the 100,000km mark was service and gas up First big fail on EVA in 3.2 years...

eva don,t think to hard on it cause it sounds like the hot water inlet on the ac air box buss jus loop the hose in the engine bay that comes through the fire wall......that same thing happen to a padna in his outlander

[mety57]

BTW that will clean the HP pump in the engine too?

The service that I offer will clean both the GDI pump and injectors.
There is no need to disassemble with the process utilized.

big z whats the price and yuh location

[Big Z]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=369195

Please see the link above for pricing. Located in Princes Town.

[EVA Unit-01]

mety, did the single bypass idle, checked the dipstick while the engine's running, there were no signs of water (fingers crossed)


UPDATE:
so this morning i disconnected the 2 hoses from the firewall and joined then using a piece of PVC hot water pipe. which of course leaked, and overheated. so on ronsin's advice, i completely removed one of the hoses and used the remaining one to close the loop on the engine = no leaks

on the test drive, the temperature shot up after 2 minutes New Problem... ron insisted that it wasn't the kink in the hose (shared by the mechanic) and suggested a damaged thermostat. left it to cool and put back in the good ol' OEM thermostat and Voila! temperature normal

decided to go have the A/C problem diagnosed, so i was driving down when i noticed the temperature going up every time i slowed for traffic (at junctions, etc). called the mechanic in a hurry, and went over for him to have a look. lo an bhold! idle goatmouth mih!

there were the tiniest of bubbles welling up in the radiator ever so often, while the car was idling with the radiator cap off. without a radiator pressure gauge to check it, we suspect that the head gasket was minorly blown, allowing compression to leak into the water system. no idle problems, nothing else at all to suggest that the gasket was blown...

i must say many thanks to ronsin for his patience with my BBM's this morning, your assistance was greatly appreciated and i'm very much obliged!

Course of Action: disassemble the engine, send the block for pressure testing and shaving (if necessary), and reassemble with new gasket once everything checks out = about 1 week of downtime for my baby

all of this <1 week (<500km) after completing my 100,000km service... *sigh*

[ronsin1]

^^^ always glad to help sorry to hear you need to take out the block for repairs doh that sucks.

hope everything works out for you.

[ZeroOne]

thats 2 major things gone in one instance.

I could tell u that labour to replace that evaporator not cheap. Matter of fact is best you service the whole AC system while you at it.

FU evaporator is about 500, new from DM is over 2k.

WRT the hot line for the AC blank them off like me, ill put up some pics.

BTW that head gasket how often is it supposed to be replaced?

[xtech]

EVA Unit-01 not saying the same happened to you eh but i want to put in some good goat mouth

had experienced something similar to what u described but on my V6..... I went out and left the car idling one day using the turbo timer to run the car for 15mins to charge the battery ....stupid me forgot radiator fans dont work while its operating like this......

neighbor calls me on my phone to tell me the car smoking from under hood like crazy like it over heating.

So a water hose that feeds the throttle body blew out when the car over heated an when reach home saw the mess fixed the leak an refilled rad I saw those tiny bubbles while the car idled it scared me seriously.......for a day I drove it around (Couva to Santa Flora) and the temps would climb an the overflow bottle would bubble i would stop and refill with water and drive on.

next day everything was back to normal i think air got sucked into the system and was causing steam to form and expand while the car drove..........good luck if not



then mechanical fix......

[daniel135]

you could probably do some upgrading one time.bore out the block and put sum bigger pistons in it!

[idlemind]

Didnt goatmouth you bro lol.
Driving without your rad cap is a recipe for disaster...no coolant, no pressure, your engine return is at the top of the tank, therefore your engine would pull for water then spit out all right by the rad cap.
Your water pump would not get water and may burn out and your thermostat stuck in the open position.

Hope the damage to the block isnt that bad.
When i did my conversion, the Mech intentionally blocked that hot water line through the firewall because those leaks are the hardest to diagnose and can cause the most damage coz the rest of the system supposedly operates fine. I suggest everyone bypass those inlets and block off that risk, we dont use the heater down here anyway.

[xtech]

he drove with d cap off...........lol........i missed that part

[EVA Unit-01]

^^^twas the advice i go to drive it home when it overheated, said the pressurized system would cause a faster leak through the busted heater core The mechanic advised that do the pressure test anyway, because if it is leaking due to a warp it'll just become worse if i just change the head gasket... hope your mouth take me, i'll ask the mechanic to check the radiator pressure first before he starts to scrap it out but the temperature fluctuations are too major to suggest anything other than a blown head gasket.

well, she went in this morning to prep for surgery, hoping that everything's all right and she doesn't need a transplant...

zero, priority right now is to get the car running, will check the A/C system after and definitely gonna leave the heater core disconnected. thing is, the A/C's still cooling so i'm hoping it's just the heater core like ronsin said, but the thermostat control on the dash isn't staying in place anymore.

daniel, you're the second person to advise on upgrades one time thing is, performance parts are hard to get for the 4G18 and i won't have enough time to research and import those to get it completed this week. never intended to upgrade the engine though, was just gonna upgrade the entire car Evo fund's taking a hit with these repairs though

[ZeroOne]

but the thermostat control on the dash isn't staying in place anymore.

What you mean? The control moving for itself?

[mety57]

eva it could of been worst but i know yuh pain ....... b4 i had the mitsu rebirth i changed a engine head and gasket 3 times