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Hey, I’ll take this op to say that I just moved to mitsu as I bought myself an evo4. My partner has a 6 and i drove it... that was enough to win me over. Greetings to the Mitsubishi owners.

However, it was working perfectly for about a month… then I took it to service (won’t mention the mechanic’s name) and all hell broke loose.

1. When I got the car back, the boost wasn’t swinging like it did before… I check the plugs, plug wires, coil pack etc. while checking the plugs and coils I think I did something wrong because the car started a slight misfire and begasn breaking up after 4000 revs.
2. I’m going up the highway and suddenly, the car begins bucking while traveling at about 90km … the engine light is on and I have to pull aside and shut the car off. I restart and everything is relatively cool. But the problem recurs the next day.
3. The sound of my fuel pump (walbro) dips and jumps like its screaming in pain. It never did this before.
4. I’m sitting in traffic and suddenly the idle misses a beat, my cd-player seems to skip, all the gauges reset and the cd returns to the first track.
5. I ran diagnostics at two places but the engine light doesn’t come on all the time so I assume that the error message would not have shown in the scan. I also swapped coil packs with a partner but the problem persisted.

Please help/ suggest what I should do. I’m thinking voltage, plug wires, gapping of the plugs, a/f ratio, ecu probs, so I’m doing some trial and error … but I’m not a mechanic and definitely not familiar with an evo. Thanks in advance for the help, I need it asap.

a fellow evo 4 owner, welcome

did your mechanic interfere with the electricals? what did you carry the car to service to do? what kind of boost controller do you have?

1. When I got the car back, the boost wasn’t swinging like it did before… I check the plugs, plug wires, coil pack etc. while checking the plugs and coils I think I did something wrong because the car started a slight misfire and begasn breaking up after 4000 revs

Did you remove the plugs?

If you did check the plug gap.. should be 0.7 - 0.8 mm for stock coded plugs ( PGR7A)

but usually people gap 0.6 - 0.7 mm. Check it and see.

2. I’m going up the highway and suddenly, the car begins bucking while traveling at about 90km … the engine light is on and I have to pull aside and shut the car off. I restart and everything is relatively cool. But the problem recurs the next day.

Sensor failing or electrical... leaning more on electrical...

3. The sound of my fuel pump (walbro) dips and jumps like its screaming in pain. It never did this before.

Again electrical... sounds like a bad grounding point for the car... could be wrong though...

4. I’m sitting in traffic and suddenly the idle misses a beat, my cd-player seems to skip, all the gauges reset and the cd returns to the first track.

That sounds like an electrical issue... check all your connections and see... especially grounding points. This can even cause ECU failure (or so i have heard) Check your alternator wiring and fuses, relays etc...

If you sent it to a mechanic and this happened, I'd take it back and demand they fix it properly or demand your money back. Find out what exactly was done and what was removed to service what (a connector may be loose or damaged for all you know...

Do a full reset of the car.... unplug the battery for 10 mins, reconnect the terminal and see. Check the ENTIRE bay for anything loose....


And get another mechanic...

Here's the manual for the EVO 4-5. check it properly

http://www.mundologico.com/nxtbook/Manu ... hi2009.pdf

^ ^ ^ Daddy done talk

Same question...Two posts...
From your other "Tech" post I thought your "service" was the usual engine-wash etc... not mechanical tuning.

Did your mechanic clean the engine?

SiRface wrote:I took my car to service (Evo4) and all hell broke loose.

3. The sound of my fuel pump (walbro) dips and jumps like its screaming in pain....
4. I’m sitting in traffic and suddenly the idle misses a beat, my cd-player seems to skip, all the gauges reset and the cd returns to the first track.

...I’m not a mechanic...

I’m not a mechanic either... nor an auto-electrician... but most of the symptoms described so far seem to be mainly electrical in nature. Most likely caused by servicing...water and electricity don't mix.

1st CAREFULLY Disconnect...Dry (low-pressure air hose...5-10psi?)...Spray (Electronic Contact Cleaner)...Reconnect all the engines's sensors.

Less likely is an intermittent "short-to-earth"... (frayed or loose wiring touching the body somewhere.)

IMHO before ripping off any more parts...

Check the NEGATIVE battery terminal.
Too many "mechanics" like to disconnect it...then leave the terminal "hand-tight."
Also check the OTHER END of the negative battery cable... now check the "positive" cable.
Make sure that you have a clean, rust-free "ground" connection...and clean terminals too.

Check battery, alternator charging rate (check all alternator wires) etc.

Check the ECU terminals and clean if necessary (Electronic Contact Cleaner)

I can't think of any other simple causes. If symptoms are still there, find a good auto electrician.
Sorry no recommendations for one.

Guys,
Thanks a million. From the searches that I did in this forum I had expected to get some powerful responses, especially from MISHI and Sanctifier. I am quite grateful for the assistance.

The mechanic does an engine wash everytime he services a vehicle. I’ll run the necessary checks. However, thanks to your recommendations, I checked and was able to remedy the boost problem since I found a loose vacuum hose.

I’ll inform y’all of my progress as I continue trying to fix the other problems.

Any recommendations for an electrical mech? And i'll be going to Anil in waterloo from now for my mechanical work. Thanks.

The mechanic does an engine wash everytime he services a vehicle. I’ll run the necessary checks. However, thanks to your recommendations, I checked and was able to remedy the boost problem since I found a loose vacuum hose.

there's your problem... (or part of it)

Engine washes are not something I am fond of, but a trick I have learned is that if you are doing it, don't use a hose... use a small bucket the lighty ash the area... then do not drive the car for the day. Areas that you don't want water entering such as plug areas, connectors, etc you cover with some plastic or even tape.

What you can do is remove the plug wires and see if there's moisture in the chamber where the plugs sit... you should see condensation on the plug sockets...

unclip some connectors around the engine bay and check for moisture... tap it lightly or blow it out... also the socket where it plugs into as well...

I always wash with light pressure. Make sure i cover, MAF, Air filter, and the whole valve cover, Alternator. And even then, I tend to stay away from he engine itself. I've only done that twice on the VII and never on the VIII yet. Just a lil wipe down to keep things clean.

well i did an engine wash once and afterwards they used the air hose n blew out all the water and eevrything ran smoothly...no problems..and in terms of a good auto electrician...u can calll ryan 736 3571

he's good...i go by him and he deals with wiring the mitsubishis from evo's to vr4's........

give him a call

^^^I'll call him. Thanks.

how's it going so far though?

Thanks again for all the help

I ran through a few things on the car starting with an attempt to dry everything off with a low pressure compressor. Dried the plugs (was advised to spray a bit of wd40 on the tips) etc. I gapped the plugs to the recommended 0.6 and took the car out for another run. At first the breaking up stopped and then returned by the time I ran through the gears about three times. However, I’m using the BKR series plugs so I’ll be upgrading them to BPR on Monday once I get time to check. I was getting the regular BR8 (not iridium) and I’m also getting the BPR8 (iridium)… which should I use?

Regarding the electricals. I disconnected the battery poles for the ten minutes, and took the opportunity to change the somewhat corroded leads from lead to copper (I did this based on my physics knowledge… let me know if it was a good idea).

I also replaced a few fuses etc. I was talking to an electrician regarding the car and he was suggesting that due to the fact that the battery is located in the trunk, the battery should be connected straight to the starter (what do you think?). I also turned off my ebc and other electrical equipment which I don’t need for everyday use.

In the end, the misfiring died down significantly but the car is still breaking up around 4, 000 revs. When I got back, I found a tiny hole in one of the shafts that connects to the plugs. I’m going to replace the plug wires and see if the misfiring and breaking up stops. The car has not cut off since. I’ll update y’all. Thanks.

thas good to know u gettin through....well i believe once u change the plugs and wires u shudnt have a problem.....so keep us posted

Try the BPR8... and yeah the plug wire change will definately be a plus... For now possibly you could try and run a little silicone or something at the hole point and see if it helps...


Also not really fond of trunk battery installs... make sure there is good grounding and that the connections are good

^^i have a trunk installed (stinger) battery, and when the car idles rough you can see the (dash) lights dimming a little, need to check over those electricals!

All evos do that apparently... mine is stock and does this... heard a couple other people who has this as well...

MISHI wrote:Try the BPR8... and yeah the plug wire change will definately be a plus... For now possibly you could try and run a little silicone or something at the hole point and see if it helps...


Also not really fond of trunk battery installs... make sure there is good grounding and that the connections are good

The "P" Stands for projected tip and not the plug for the evo. As far as I know you want the BR8EIX plug for the evo.

http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... p?t=278039

Salty that is not correct. See the above thread.

saltydog wrote:

MISHI wrote:Try the BPR8... and yeah the plug wire change will definately be a plus... For now possibly you could try and run a little silicone or something at the hole point and see if it helps...


Also not really fond of trunk battery installs... make sure there is good grounding and that the connections are good

The "P" Stands for projected tip and not the plug for the evo. As far as I know you want the BR8EIX plug for the evo.

The BR8 is even colder... Stock plug for the 4-6 is the PGR7A. 7- 8 is IGR7A-G The BPR8 will be 1x colder and the BR8 will be 1.5x colder.

everytime i engine wash my ck i experience some of the problems you stated...I either use the compressor to blow out the plugs or in serious cases open up the distributor cap n spray it out with wd40...im not a techy but that what i experience..