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Building a house in Trinidad

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Rory Phoulorie » March 1st, 2016, 4:57 pm

fireball wrote:Oh and one other question how much bags of cement do I need for a truck load of gravel and what should the mixture be for a foundation example one bag to three wheelbarrows or 1-4 any help will be appreciated

From the Trinidad and Tobago Small Building Code, the following are the recommended proportions for concrete used in foundations:

1 bag (42.5kg) of cement
1 wheelbarrow sand
2 wheelbarrows gravel
3 buckets water

Note:
1) Volume of wheelbarrow is 57 litres (equivalent to 2 bags of cement)
2) Volume of construction bucket is 12 litres

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 1st, 2016, 5:54 pm

- Rovin's car audio - wrote:anybody else will admit they had to google d word " lintol " ?

a horizontal architectural member supporting the weight above an opening, as a window or a door.


commonly called " ring beam " not so ? ....... :|

No ring beams are the beams that sorrounds the top of the outer walls.
As in a beam that strengthens the ring of the house I suppose.
Lintols are specific to door and window over head support.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 1st, 2016, 5:59 pm

fireball wrote:Hey ppl looking to start building a foundation in Freeport what hardware should I go for material and how to go about getting backfill

Reesal Hardware for great prices. Just ask for Nicole & tell her Shane sent you. Should get you a 10% discount at the very least.
Also Ogeer Ali for best prices on stock pile materials. He also tries to beat Reesal prices if you can show him the comparison. His deliveries are free as well whilst Reesal is not.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 1st, 2016, 6:07 pm

Rory Phoulorie wrote:
fireball wrote:Oh and one other question how much bags of cement do I need for a truck load of gravel and what should the mixture be for a foundation example one bag to three wheelbarrows or 1-4 any help will be appreciated

From the Trinidad and Tobago Small Building Code, the following are the recommended proportions for concrete used in foundations:

1 bag (42.5kg) of cement
1 wheelbarrow sand
2 wheelbarrows gravel
3 buckets water

Note:
1) Volume of wheelbarrow is 57 litres (equivalent to 2 bags of cement)
2) Volume of construction bucket is 12 litres


Although these are precise measurements every builder knows mixing concrete can be a lot like cooking. You may need to add a little more or a little less depending on the quality of ingredients you have.
They mentioned 1 wheel barrow of sand & 2 wheel barrows of gravel.
In reality most stockpiles give you a half and half gravel mix these days which works out a lot cheaper than buying the gravel and sand aggregates seperate. It's like a premix and is the most common gravel you might see on the average residential construction site.

For those of you that don't speak the language of metric measurements here is a more lamens approach to concrete mixing:

1 load = 8 yards (usually depends on the truck bed, so try to specify yards)
12 heaped barrows will give you a yard
For every 3 barrows gravel use 1 bag of cement (mortar is 2 bags)
Add water to the mix to have it workable but you don't want it too watery or it will weaken the strength. We use a hose usually so an experienced eye knows when to stop.
3-4 pig tail buckets should do the trick for every yard of gravel
For every yard of gravel you need about 4 bags of cement & about 3% steel volume to give you a 3000 psi mix.
If you wish to increase the psi strength add an extra bag of cement to the above mix and anywhere between 3-8% steel volume as well
To know how much psi strength you want to aim for only the customer can give you the answer.
He has to know what is the heaviest object he intends to place on the concrete.
If you wanted to put a portable pool on a decking I can work the psi for you.

For an experienced builder that has a lot of idle time on his hands:
It's simple, I just take the shape of the object to determine the volume and the density of the material it is made of mutliplied by the volume to determine the mass. Water, wood, metal, everything carries a standard density so once you work out the volumetric shape you can determine it's mass based on it's components. Or you could just ask someone witty how much the darn thing weighs lol.
Once you know the mass you can determine how many pounds per square inch is being pressed down upon the concrete and thus calculate the needed psi strength of the concrete.

I mentioned earlier that too much water can weaken the concrete, but this is not really the case. In fact concrete cures better under water. The problem lies with running water. Cement has a binding agent called Ferrite which if too much is washed away the other particles don't bond properly which causes the concrete to crack when there are fluctuations in pressure/tension. This is the number one cause of cracking on most casting jobs.
Another cause of cracking is the time factor of pouring when doing a casting. Ferrite's binding ability is only activated when it gets wet & it binds best with aggregates such as gravel. Once the binding process starts you want all your concrete to bind at the same rate for it to have the same consistency.
Kinda like baking half a cake and then adding more batter to it and trying to bake it some more. It won't hold very good.

Another cause of weak casting jobs is the steel placement. Oxygen is the enemy of steel. Once oxygen is allowed to reach the steel, the process of oxidization sets in and rots the steel like a virus. Many lazy/inexperienced builders just rest the steel and throw concrete over it. This leaves the steel exposed to oxygen as it is nearer the outer edge of the concrete. What every builder should aim for is to get the steel between 1-2"s away from the outer edge of the concrete. Spacers normally do the trick (break up some 1" thick concrete blocks)
Last edited by MD Marketers on March 1st, 2016, 6:51 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby urbandilema » March 1st, 2016, 6:15 pm

Hey man tanx alot for the info...I n d situation of no land so I cud understand what's the concept of bridging.tanx tuners..

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby fireball » March 1st, 2016, 6:17 pm

Thanks a lot for the help I was kind of lost with a lot of things I mentioned but feel a lot more comfortable now with the info from everyone I will look for a phone number for the ogeer Ali in the morning thanks again

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 1st, 2016, 6:57 pm

fireball wrote:Thanks a lot for the help I was kind of lost with a lot of things I mentioned but feel a lot more comfortable now with the info from everyone I will look for a phone number for the ogeer Ali in the morning thanks again

3341704 don't call him after working hours please.
Here is my number if you need more advice 391-4558. Shane

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Pointman-IA » March 2nd, 2016, 12:52 am

MD Marketers wrote:
Rory Phoulorie wrote:
fireball wrote:Oh and one other question how much bags of cement do I need for a truck load of gravel and what should the mixture be for a foundation example one bag to three wheelbarrows or 1-4 any help will be appreciated

From the Trinidad and Tobago Small Building Code, the following are the recommended proportions for concrete used in foundations:

1 bag (42.5kg) of cement
1 wheelbarrow sand
2 wheelbarrows gravel
3 buckets water

Note:
1) Volume of wheelbarrow is 57 litres (equivalent to 2 bags of cement)
2) Volume of construction bucket is 12 litres


Although these are precise measurements every builder knows mixing concrete can be a lot like cooking. You may need to add a little more or a little less depending on the quality of ingredients you have.
They mentioned 1 wheel barrow of sand & 2 wheel barrows of gravel.
In reality most stockpiles give you a half and half gravel mix these days which works out a lot cheaper than buying the gravel and sand aggregates seperate. It's like a premix and is the most common gravel you might see on the average residential construction site.

For those of you that don't speak the language of metric measurements here is a more lamens approach to concrete mixing:

1 load = 8 yards (usually depends on the truck bed, so try to specify yards)
12 heaped barrows will give you a yard
For every 3 barrows gravel use 1 bag of cement (mortar is 2 bags)
Add water to the mix to have it workable but you don't want it too watery or it will weaken the strength. We use a hose usually so an experienced eye knows when to stop.
3-4 pig tail buckets should do the trick for every yard of gravel
For every yard of gravel you need about 4 bags of cement & about 3% steel volume to give you a 3000 psi mix.
If you wish to increase the psi strength add an extra bag of cement to the above mix and anywhere between 3-8% steel volume as well
To know how much psi strength you want to aim for only the customer can give you the answer.
He has to know what is the heaviest object he intends to place on the concrete.
If you wanted to put a portable pool on a decking I can work the psi for you.

For an experienced builder that has a lot of idle time on his hands:
It's simple, I just take the shape of the object to determine the volume and the density of the material it is made of mutliplied by the volume to determine the mass. Water, wood, metal, everything carries a standard density so once you work out the volumetric shape you can determine it's mass based on it's components. Or you could just ask someone witty how much the darn thing weighs lol.
Once you know the mass you can determine how many pounds per square inch is being pressed down upon the concrete and thus calculate the needed psi strength of the concrete.

I mentioned earlier that too much water can weaken the concrete, but this is not really the case. In fact concrete cures better under water. The problem lies with running water. Cement has a binding agent called Ferrite which if too much is washed away the other particles don't bond properly which causes the concrete to crack when there are fluctuations in pressure/tension. This is the number one cause of cracking on most casting jobs.
Another cause of cracking is the time factor of pouring when doing a casting. Ferrite's binding ability is only activated when it gets wet & it binds best with aggregates such as gravel. Once the binding process starts you want all your concrete to bind at the same rate for it to have the same consistency.
Kinda like baking half a cake and then adding more batter to it and trying to bake it some more. It won't hold very good.

Another cause of weak casting jobs is the steel placement. Oxygen is the enemy of steel. Once oxygen is allowed to reach the steel, the process of oxidization sets in and rots the steel like a virus. Many lazy/inexperienced builders just rest the steel and throw concrete over it. This leaves the steel exposed to oxygen as it is nearer the outer edge of the concrete. What every builder should aim for is to get the steel between 1-2"s away from the outer edge of the concrete. Spacers normally do the trick (break up some 1" thick concrete blocks)



Nice write up.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby De Dragon » March 2nd, 2016, 5:01 am

urbandilema wrote:Hey man tanx alot for the info...I n d situation of no land so I cud understand what's the concept of bridging.tanx tuners..

So, it would be safe to say that you're in an urban dilemma?
Ba-dum Ching! :lol:

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby De Dragon » March 2nd, 2016, 5:01 am

urbandilema wrote:Hey man tanx alot for the info...I n d situation of no land so I cud understand what's the concept of bridging.tanx tuners..

So, it would be safe to say that you're in an urban dilemma?
Ba-dum Ching! :lol:

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby The Raven » March 2nd, 2016, 5:23 pm

Guys concerning the issues with the cracks on the walls on the second level, the land is flat land there is no sign of the foundation moving or sinking. The frame of the decking is steel I donot know if there were any movements that caused the cracks.
There is no running water around the house.
Thanks for the replys.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 2nd, 2016, 7:01 pm

The Raven wrote:Guys concerning the issues with the cracks on the walls on the second level, the land is flat land there is no sign of the foundation moving or sinking. The frame of the decking is steel I donot know if there were any movements that caused the cracks.
There is no running water around the house.
Thanks for the replys.

Steel structure? This information helps a lot now.
Steel is very responsive to changes in temperature.
Fluctuations in temperature is another major cause of cracking of walls.
If the I beams are exposed to sunlight start covering them up using high rib wire, board and mortar.
If the roof is up already heat proof it.
Keep heat away from the beams as much as you can.

Ever wondered why we use 4" concrete blocks instead of clay bricks for steel structures?

I'm guessing if you check round you will see signs of cracking at other window locations.
I'm guessing either you don't have a roof up as yet or it hasn't been heat proofed. Ceiling helps reduce the heat as well.
I'm also guessing you used 4" clay bricks instead of concrete blocks.
Am I right Watson?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby The Raven » March 3rd, 2016, 6:43 am

Yep we used clay blocks, the roof is covered and heat proof placed under the roof.
I am in trouble?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Rota fan » March 3rd, 2016, 7:43 am

Hi guys. Need some advice. Ive just paid off for my lot of land and am ready to build. Im thinking of putting down a two story steel structure with the option for a third story in the future. Im planning on putting four two bedroom/1 bath apartments on the first floor to help me with the mortgage and may choose to live downstairs or if it all comes together, may decide to mirror the upstairs and do four apts as well. Anyone has any advice they would like to share such as how i should go about starting the process, approx. cost etc. Also, i need a recommendation for someone to do the drawings and deal with town and country etc for me. Thanks

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 3rd, 2016, 8:18 am

The Raven wrote:Yep we used clay blocks, the roof is covered and heat proof placed under the roof.
I am in trouble?

Seal the I beams from outside using hi rib wire, board and mortar.
If you haven't plastered the wall as yet try to add some complast & polyv7 to the mix, it helps strengthen the wall.
You still need a ceiling to further reduce the heat.
If the wall already plastered and the crack is showing significantly there are concrete sealants that you can use to hide it but it won't strengthen the wall.
Only the plastering and heat reduction will help at this point.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 3rd, 2016, 9:40 am

Rota fan wrote:Hi guys. Need some advice. Ive just paid off for my lot of land and am ready to build. Im thinking of putting down a two story steel structure with the option for a third story in the future. Im planning on putting four two bedroom/1 bath apartments on the first floor to help me with the mortgage and may choose to live downstairs or if it all comes together, may decide to mirror the upstairs and do four apts as well. Anyone has any advice they would like to share such as how i should go about starting the process, approx. cost etc. Also, i need a recommendation for someone to do the drawings and deal with town and country etc for me. Thanks

You are working with a $2.5+ million dollar budget to fully complete
Follow this process:
1. Find out how much you qualify for from various financial institutions. Also ask how much per phase will they be willing to lend you. (normally $200k- $500k per phase)
2. Write down as much details about the design of the house that you like.
3. Give a draftsman/architect your details to develop a drawing
3b. Consider getting a premature quote/sketch/consultation from an experienced builder/procurement specialist for about $500 before you spend $10,000 on a drawing that you can't qualify for.
4. Once satisfied with the drawing take it to Town & Country for approval. Note if no drainage, electrical lines or access roads are nearby you will have problems.
5. Once t/c & regional corporation approves it call in the builders for quotations. You will usually need at least 3 seperate quotes based on the approved drawings. Have the contractors break down the quote into the phase budget mentioned earlier ($200k - $500k per phase usually). The phase itself is irrelevant, only the value is important. Be cautious of builders that forget to mention storage sheds, toilets, electricity connections & water tanks in their quotes, because you will have to fork out about $30k cash upfront that you never catered for (not to mention it might take 3 months to get those things whilst you are paying bridging fees from an unused loan)
5a. If the quotes are too high go back to step 3b.
6. Send the quotes/approved drawings to your financial institutions for them to compare it with their quantity surveyor reports.
7. Once your loan is approved you should go ahead and start ASAP with the builder of your choice & the FI will release your funds accordingly.
8. Each phase will be inspected by a loans officer or quantity surveyor before they release the funds for the next phase. If the requirements to fullfill each phase (as was specified by your builder) have not been achieved you will not receive more funds until it is done.
9. Try to choose a good builder or you could get "hang up" & cannot access funds to reach the next phase and you might have to ask mommy and daddy for a borrow to make it to the next stage to get more funds again.
10. If you see any problems because you tried to deviate from this advice please call me on 391-4558 so I can verbally abuse you for not listening.

Good Luck.

Shane

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Rota fan » March 3rd, 2016, 6:50 pm

Thanks alot MD. This is the advice that ive been looking for. Much appreciated

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby York » March 3rd, 2016, 11:39 pm

Are you certain the land is approved for an apartment building? If not and it's single family, for example, the plan will be rejected when submitted. If you don't know you can write to T&C requesting confirmation of status of land for intended purpose of apt bldg.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby York » March 4th, 2016, 12:10 am

Also consider what a $800k to $1M mortgage will cost you for a home to meet your needs and compare with that of a $2.5M mortgage even with the $10k per month income for the extra $1.5M borrowed.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Rota fan » March 4th, 2016, 3:28 am

I am applying for a mixed use building. Also, i dont plan on spending that much on the mortgage. It would be very similiar to what rspann did to his building couple pages back but ill have to do it in phases. My initial goal will be for the foundation, structure and completed first floor apts.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Pointman-IA » March 4th, 2016, 5:23 am

Question to the pros.

Is it possible for fresh concrete to adjoin to previous concrete work that was done, lets say, 15 years ago?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby brams112 » March 4th, 2016, 5:56 am

Pointman-IA wrote:Question to the pros.

Is it possible for fresh concrete to adjoin to previous concrete work that was done, lets say, 15 years ago?

Concrete don't join,all types of formulas does let go,if there is steel,got to break up the concrete at least a foot into the first cast to get to the steel or brc make sure it looks jagged,I normally prefer my concrete to be watery at that point with less stone,a little more cement in the mix,an beat in the concrete so it gets in the spaces.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 4th, 2016, 6:46 am

brams112 wrote:
Pointman-IA wrote:Question to the pros.

Is it possible for fresh concrete to adjoin to previous concrete work that was done, lets say, 15 years ago?

Concrete don't join,all types of formulas does let go,if there is steel,got to break up the concrete at least a foot into the first cast to get to the steel or brc make sure it looks jagged,I normally prefer my concrete to be watery at that point with less stone,a little more cement in the mix,an beat in the concrete so it gets in the spaces.

Power wash/chip the section that will be joining the fresh concrete.
Drill 5/8" holes every 2' apart about 10"s deep. Must be located 2-3"s below the intended concrete line
Cut up some 5/8" corrugated steel into 2' lengths.
Coat the tip of each of the 2' piece of 5/8" steel with industrial grade steel epoxy & hammer it into the holes.
When mixing the concrete add complast and polyv7 to the mix that will be touching the old concrete (about a gallon per yard). You can get the complast in SEL from Arranguez.

Keep the joined part wet for the next 8 hours if possible but not running water. The binding ability of ferrite works best when wet.
Let it cure properly for 7 days before putting any weight on it.

The purpose of this is to avoid separation later on. This is not to be used for support of an extension.

Regards,

Shane
Last edited by MD Marketers on March 4th, 2016, 7:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Rory Phoulorie » March 4th, 2016, 7:04 am

:| All I am going to say is take the advice being given in this thread with a grain of salt, actually, a few grains of salt.

Concrete should not be "watery" for ease of placement, it should have high fluidity. If the area where the concrete is to be placed is "tight" with lots of reinforcing steel or does not have much space for concrete to flow through, you should use a concrete mix with aggregates not greater than 9.5mm (3/8 inch) in size. Half and half gravel is not suitable in this case. You can further increase the fluidity of the concrete by using a super plasticiser such as Fosroc Conplast 430.

If you want to bond new concrete to old concrete, you should roughen the surface of the old concrete using a chipping hammer to remove all laitance and exterior coatings on the concrete. If you can, you should try and cut a key into the old concrete into which the new concrete will interlock. Depending on the loads to which the concrete is to be subjected, you may use a polymer based bonding agent such as Fosroc Nitobond SBR, or an epoxy bonding agent such as Fosroc Nitobond EP (better, but more expensive).

With respect to if you need to tie the two sections of concrete together with reinforcing steel bars, you need to dowel the reinforcing steel starter bars into the old concrete. To set the bars in the old concrete, you should use an epoxy grout adhesive such as Simpson Strong-Tie SET epoxy adhesive.

All of the products I have listed here are available at SCL Trinidad Limited in San Juan.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 4th, 2016, 7:19 am

Rory Phoulorie wrote::| All I am going to say is take the advice being given in this thread with a grain of salt, actually, a few grains of salt.

Concrete should not be "watery" for ease of placement, it should have high fluidity. If the area where the concrete is to be placed is "tight" with lots of reinforcing steel or does not have much space for concrete to flow through, you should use a concrete mix with aggregates not greater than 9.5mm (3/8 inch) in size. Half and half gravel is not suitable in this case. You can further increase the fluidity of the concrete by using a super plasticiser such as Fosroc Conplast 430.

If you want to bond new concrete to old concrete, you should roughen the surface of the old concrete using a chipping hammer to remove all laitance and exterior coatings on the concrete. If you can, you should try and cut a key into the old concrete into which the new concrete will interlock. Depending on the loads to which the concrete is to be subjected, you may use a polymer based bonding agent such as Fosroc Nitobond SBR, or an epoxy bonding agent such as Fosroc Nitobond EP (better, but more expensive).

With respect to if you need to tie the two sections of concrete together with reinforcing steel bars, you need to dowel the reinforcing steel starter bars into the old concrete. To set the bars in the old concrete, you should use an epoxy grout adhesive such as Simpson Strong-Tie SET epoxy adhesive.

All of the products I have listed here are available at SCL Trinidad Limited in San Juan.

Yes York does have some debatable techniques.
You are more knowledgable on exact product brand names but we share the same concept.
How do you cut a key in a foundation to join an apron to it? I don't think you can but if you know how please share it. I seek knowledge, not debate.
Also a key will break faster than steel if you had to choose between the 2 options. Unless you were making some over sized keys with steel in them.
You basically repeated what I said with more accurate details.
The purpose of the steel is to lock the old concrete to the steel via adhesive and the fresh concrete to the steel via the ferrite agent in the fresh concrete.
Yes sharp sand grout mix is the better mix for tight spaces, but he didn't specify details of the job and it sounded like he was joining slab to slab or slab to foundation.

If there are any mistakes in my advice please correct me, I do not lay claim to be the most knowledgable in construction. Every project is a learning experience for me as it should be for everyone else as well.

Also i dont fully understand your "grains of salt" statement. It is still a step in the right direction & surrounding yourself with knowledge has always been the best way forward.
I agree that some of the advice here is lacking in experience but it's a forum where more knowledgeable individuals can object and give even better advice.
At the end of the day it's not up to us to decide, but I'm sure the readers will have benefited from the collective knowledge imparted by the users of this thread.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby York » March 4th, 2016, 11:06 pm

^Says the guy who was certain on the last page but guessing on this page when he was proven wrong.

I don't know what debatable techniques i've suggested but i'm willing to learn as well. I didn't claim to be expert and don't offer advice not knowing the facts. That's why i told the guy "it's hard to say" because it is hard when you're guessing.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 5th, 2016, 7:11 am

York wrote:^Says the guy who was certain on the last page but guessing on this page when he was proven wrong.

I don't know what debatable techniques i've suggested but i'm willing to learn as well. I didn't claim to be expert and don't offer advice not knowing the facts. That's why i told the guy "it's hard to say" because it is hard when you're guessing.

As stated in the very same post, it's called troubleshooting. When troubleshooting you offer advice based on limited facts and work your way to the solution by process of elimination.
It's not "hard to say" for me & we found the answer, he was using clay bricks on a steel structure.

York
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby York » March 5th, 2016, 8:43 am

Whatever, construction slow...i guess.

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MD Marketers
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby MD Marketers » March 5th, 2016, 9:01 am

York wrote:Whatever, construction slow...i guess.

Although it benefits me more to keep you in the dark and deter possible competition I like your enthusiasm.
Construction isn't slow my friend.
You just need to know where to look, when to build & what services to offer during the year.
If you want to join the team of sub contractors that collaborate with us let me know.
You will benefit from year round construction projects and collective knowledge from various builders.

Sunic
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Sunic » March 6th, 2016, 9:51 am

Anyone know of a contractor or company that sells house plan templates and provide construction also?

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