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fireball wrote:Oh and one other question how much bags of cement do I need for a truck load of gravel and what should the mixture be for a foundation example one bag to three wheelbarrows or 1-4 any help will be appreciated
- Rovin's car audio - wrote:anybody else will admit they had to google d word " lintol " ?a horizontal architectural member supporting the weight above an opening, as a window or a door.
commonly called " ring beam " not so ? .......
fireball wrote:Hey ppl looking to start building a foundation in Freeport what hardware should I go for material and how to go about getting backfill
Rory Phoulorie wrote:fireball wrote:Oh and one other question how much bags of cement do I need for a truck load of gravel and what should the mixture be for a foundation example one bag to three wheelbarrows or 1-4 any help will be appreciated
From the Trinidad and Tobago Small Building Code, the following are the recommended proportions for concrete used in foundations:
1 bag (42.5kg) of cement
1 wheelbarrow sand
2 wheelbarrows gravel
3 buckets water
Note:
1) Volume of wheelbarrow is 57 litres (equivalent to 2 bags of cement)
2) Volume of construction bucket is 12 litres
fireball wrote:Thanks a lot for the help I was kind of lost with a lot of things I mentioned but feel a lot more comfortable now with the info from everyone I will look for a phone number for the ogeer Ali in the morning thanks again
MD Marketers wrote:Rory Phoulorie wrote:fireball wrote:Oh and one other question how much bags of cement do I need for a truck load of gravel and what should the mixture be for a foundation example one bag to three wheelbarrows or 1-4 any help will be appreciated
From the Trinidad and Tobago Small Building Code, the following are the recommended proportions for concrete used in foundations:
1 bag (42.5kg) of cement
1 wheelbarrow sand
2 wheelbarrows gravel
3 buckets water
Note:
1) Volume of wheelbarrow is 57 litres (equivalent to 2 bags of cement)
2) Volume of construction bucket is 12 litres
Although these are precise measurements every builder knows mixing concrete can be a lot like cooking. You may need to add a little more or a little less depending on the quality of ingredients you have.
They mentioned 1 wheel barrow of sand & 2 wheel barrows of gravel.
In reality most stockpiles give you a half and half gravel mix these days which works out a lot cheaper than buying the gravel and sand aggregates seperate. It's like a premix and is the most common gravel you might see on the average residential construction site.
For those of you that don't speak the language of metric measurements here is a more lamens approach to concrete mixing:
1 load = 8 yards (usually depends on the truck bed, so try to specify yards)
12 heaped barrows will give you a yard
For every 3 barrows gravel use 1 bag of cement (mortar is 2 bags)
Add water to the mix to have it workable but you don't want it too watery or it will weaken the strength. We use a hose usually so an experienced eye knows when to stop.
3-4 pig tail buckets should do the trick for every yard of gravel
For every yard of gravel you need about 4 bags of cement & about 3% steel volume to give you a 3000 psi mix.
If you wish to increase the psi strength add an extra bag of cement to the above mix and anywhere between 3-8% steel volume as well
To know how much psi strength you want to aim for only the customer can give you the answer.
He has to know what is the heaviest object he intends to place on the concrete.
If you wanted to put a portable pool on a decking I can work the psi for you.
For an experienced builder that has a lot of idle time on his hands:
It's simple, I just take the shape of the object to determine the volume and the density of the material it is made of mutliplied by the volume to determine the mass. Water, wood, metal, everything carries a standard density so once you work out the volumetric shape you can determine it's mass based on it's components. Or you could just ask someone witty how much the darn thing weighs lol.
Once you know the mass you can determine how many pounds per square inch is being pressed down upon the concrete and thus calculate the needed psi strength of the concrete.
I mentioned earlier that too much water can weaken the concrete, but this is not really the case. In fact concrete cures better under water. The problem lies with running water. Cement has a binding agent called Ferrite which if too much is washed away the other particles don't bond properly which causes the concrete to crack when there are fluctuations in pressure/tension. This is the number one cause of cracking on most casting jobs.
Another cause of cracking is the time factor of pouring when doing a casting. Ferrite's binding ability is only activated when it gets wet & it binds best with aggregates such as gravel. Once the binding process starts you want all your concrete to bind at the same rate for it to have the same consistency.
Kinda like baking half a cake and then adding more batter to it and trying to bake it some more. It won't hold very good.
Another cause of weak casting jobs is the steel placement. Oxygen is the enemy of steel. Once oxygen is allowed to reach the steel, the process of oxidization sets in and rots the steel like a virus. Many lazy/inexperienced builders just rest the steel and throw concrete over it. This leaves the steel exposed to oxygen as it is nearer the outer edge of the concrete. What every builder should aim for is to get the steel between 1-2"s away from the outer edge of the concrete. Spacers normally do the trick (break up some 1" thick concrete blocks)
urbandilema wrote:Hey man tanx alot for the info...I n d situation of no land so I cud understand what's the concept of bridging.tanx tuners..
urbandilema wrote:Hey man tanx alot for the info...I n d situation of no land so I cud understand what's the concept of bridging.tanx tuners..
The Raven wrote:Guys concerning the issues with the cracks on the walls on the second level, the land is flat land there is no sign of the foundation moving or sinking. The frame of the decking is steel I donot know if there were any movements that caused the cracks.
There is no running water around the house.
Thanks for the replys.
The Raven wrote:Yep we used clay blocks, the roof is covered and heat proof placed under the roof.
I am in trouble?
Rota fan wrote:Hi guys. Need some advice. Ive just paid off for my lot of land and am ready to build. Im thinking of putting down a two story steel structure with the option for a third story in the future. Im planning on putting four two bedroom/1 bath apartments on the first floor to help me with the mortgage and may choose to live downstairs or if it all comes together, may decide to mirror the upstairs and do four apts as well. Anyone has any advice they would like to share such as how i should go about starting the process, approx. cost etc. Also, i need a recommendation for someone to do the drawings and deal with town and country etc for me. Thanks
Pointman-IA wrote:Question to the pros.
Is it possible for fresh concrete to adjoin to previous concrete work that was done, lets say, 15 years ago?
brams112 wrote:Pointman-IA wrote:Question to the pros.
Is it possible for fresh concrete to adjoin to previous concrete work that was done, lets say, 15 years ago?
Concrete don't join,all types of formulas does let go,if there is steel,got to break up the concrete at least a foot into the first cast to get to the steel or brc make sure it looks jagged,I normally prefer my concrete to be watery at that point with less stone,a little more cement in the mix,an beat in the concrete so it gets in the spaces.
Rory Phoulorie wrote::| All I am going to say is take the advice being given in this thread with a grain of salt, actually, a few grains of salt.
Concrete should not be "watery" for ease of placement, it should have high fluidity. If the area where the concrete is to be placed is "tight" with lots of reinforcing steel or does not have much space for concrete to flow through, you should use a concrete mix with aggregates not greater than 9.5mm (3/8 inch) in size. Half and half gravel is not suitable in this case. You can further increase the fluidity of the concrete by using a super plasticiser such as Fosroc Conplast 430.
If you want to bond new concrete to old concrete, you should roughen the surface of the old concrete using a chipping hammer to remove all laitance and exterior coatings on the concrete. If you can, you should try and cut a key into the old concrete into which the new concrete will interlock. Depending on the loads to which the concrete is to be subjected, you may use a polymer based bonding agent such as Fosroc Nitobond SBR, or an epoxy bonding agent such as Fosroc Nitobond EP (better, but more expensive).
With respect to if you need to tie the two sections of concrete together with reinforcing steel bars, you need to dowel the reinforcing steel starter bars into the old concrete. To set the bars in the old concrete, you should use an epoxy grout adhesive such as Simpson Strong-Tie SET epoxy adhesive.
All of the products I have listed here are available at SCL Trinidad Limited in San Juan.
York wrote:^Says the guy who was certain on the last page but guessing on this page when he was proven wrong.
I don't know what debatable techniques i've suggested but i'm willing to learn as well. I didn't claim to be expert and don't offer advice not knowing the facts. That's why i told the guy "it's hard to say" because it is hard when you're guessing.
York wrote:Whatever, construction slow...i guess.
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