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Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ you will probably never make up your mind - there are always features that will make decisions difficult.
IMO I bought the best showing panel at the time that I could afford - it turned out to be the PN58B860 and it still gets good reviews. I would have liked to get a Pioneer Elite Kuro Pro plasma since they are rated as the best showing panels ever - but they are expensive (US$7000) and since they were hand picked panels they are not in production again.
I am sure there are LED panels now that closely match the Samsung Plasma I bought in 2009 though the LEDs will still have local dimming issues.
I wouldnt buy a panel now though - there is too much speculation on whether 3D will be active, passive or glasses free. And even in the glasses free arena there are 4 point, 6 point and 9 point TVs (with glass free you have to sit a particular point to see 3D). Or they might come up with some new thing by year end.
Passive screens just made active screen obsolete and glasses free made passive screen obsolete. Now is not a good time to buy if you are buying 3D.
And to end that, if you are buying a TV now I suggest that you DO buy a 3D TV. Why? cause to do 3D the TV has to have the best features i.e. 120hz or 240hz, good black levels, good response times, HDMI 1.4, networking, etc etc. - this will all improve your 2D watching experience even if you never watch a 3D movie on it.
AGENT RORO wrote:Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ you will probably never make up your mind - there are always features that will make decisions difficult.
IMO I bought the best showing panel at the time that I could afford - it turned out to be the PN58B860 and it still gets good reviews. I would have liked to get a Pioneer Elite Kuro Pro plasma since they are rated as the best showing panels ever - but they are expensive (US$7000) and since they were hand picked panels they are not in production again.
I am sure there are LED panels now that closely match the Samsung Plasma I bought in 2009 though the LEDs will still have local dimming issues.
I wouldnt buy a panel now though - there is too much speculation on whether 3D will be active, passive or glasses free. And even in the glasses free arena there are 4 point, 6 point and 9 point TVs (with glass free you have to sit a particular point to see 3D). Or they might come up with some new thing by year end.
Passive screens just made active screen obsolete and glasses free made passive screen obsolete. Now is not a good time to buy if you are buying 3D.
And to end that, if you are buying a TV now I suggest that you DO buy a 3D TV. Why? cause to do 3D the TV has to have the best features i.e. 120hz or 240hz, good black levels, good response times, HDMI 1.4, networking, etc etc. - this will all improve your 2D watching experience even if you never watch a 3D movie on it.
Funny you mentioned that, I'm now doing some reading on what's available now.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ actually with all this talk you really cannot beat a CRT for colour depth and black levels, even with the best and most expensive plasmas and LEDs - however they can't make CRTs larger than probably 30"
noshownogo wrote:Those Sharp 27" CRT's weighed what felt like a ton
Soundwave wrote:AGENT RORO wrote:Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ you will probably never make up your mind - there are always features that will make decisions difficult.
IMO I bought the best showing panel at the time that I could afford - it turned out to be the PN58B860 and it still gets good reviews. I would have liked to get a Pioneer Elite Kuro Pro plasma since they are rated as the best showing panels ever - but they are expensive (US$7000) and since they were hand picked panels they are not in production again.
I am sure there are LED panels now that closely match the Samsung Plasma I bought in 2009 though the LEDs will still have local dimming issues.
I wouldnt buy a panel now though - there is too much speculation on whether 3D will be active, passive or glasses free. And even in the glasses free arena there are 4 point, 6 point and 9 point TVs (with glass free you have to sit a particular point to see 3D). Or they might come up with some new thing by year end.
Passive screens just made active screen obsolete and glasses free made passive screen obsolete. Now is not a good time to buy if you are buying 3D.
And to end that, if you are buying a TV now I suggest that you DO buy a 3D TV. Why? cause to do 3D the TV has to have the best features i.e. 120hz or 240hz, good black levels, good response times, HDMI 1.4, networking, etc etc. - this will all improve your 2D watching experience even if you never watch a 3D movie on it.
Funny you mentioned that, I'm now doing some reading on what's available now.
get a sharp 19" crt fadda, daiz de best, if you want it to do 3d just keep running up to the screen and running back...
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ $1,400 to $1,600 US I'm guessing
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:I feel you need a UPS bank and a generator with auto start.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ you need a UPS + line conditioner + voltage regulator with the ability to lower voltage during spikes and boost voltage during dips. In the event of a brown-out the system should shut itself off instead of trying to maintain boosting the voltage.
The Panamax 7500-PRO does this but it costs nearly US$2000 and doesnt have a UPS.
AGENT RORO wrote:Don't know if Raptor might be able to say, but I'm reading that Monster's warranty doesn't cover "brown outs"?
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:^ you need a UPS + line conditioner + voltage regulator with the ability to lower voltage during spikes and boost voltage during dips. In the event of a brown-out the system should shut itself off instead of trying to maintain boosting the voltage.
The Panamax 7500-PRO does this but it costs nearly US$2000 and doesnt have a UPS.
RapToR wrote:AGENT RORO wrote:Don't know if Raptor might be able to say, but I'm reading that Monster's warranty doesn't cover "brown outs"?
You only get 6mts warranty on the monster products from defects
Warranty won't cover equipment damages, that's for US only
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:RapToR wrote:AGENT RORO wrote:Don't know if Raptor might be able to say, but I'm reading that Monster's warranty doesn't cover "brown outs"?
You only get 6mts warranty on the monster products from defects
Warranty won't cover equipment damages, that's for US only
I am sure no warranty covers brown-outs - if they do it would be called "insurance" not "warranty"
a brown-out is not the proper operating criteria and so would not be covered by ANY warranty
no scene dan, prolly came across a lil harshAGENT RORO wrote:Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:RapToR wrote:AGENT RORO wrote:Don't know if Raptor might be able to say, but I'm reading that Monster's warranty doesn't cover "brown outs"?
You only get 6mts warranty on the monster products from defects
Warranty won't cover equipment damages, that's for US only
I am sure no warranty covers brown-outs - if they do it would be called "insurance" not "warranty"
a brown-out is not the proper operating criteria and so would not be covered by ANY warranty
Was just asking good Sir.
well there you go, a UPS and it claims voltage regulation too.X_Factor wrote:CTC insisted we purchase this below, to get proper warranty
http://www.powercom-usa.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID=11
we suffer from occassional low voltage and never had a prob yet, it works pretty good
when power goes the tv remains on up to about 10mins(maybe a little more) so we can power it it off properly
X_Factor wrote:CTC insisted we purchase this below, to get proper warranty
http://www.powercom-usa.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID=11
we suffer from occassional low voltage and never had a prob yet, it works pretty good
when power goes the tv remains on up to about 10mins(maybe a little more) so we can power it it off properly
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:reember that a UPS is for backup power - they only go to battery power when there is a power failure.
if the UPS has no proper line conditioning, noise filtration and voltage regulation then you no better off than plugging it into the wall except when lights go.
Only devices with hard drives need to be shut down properly really.
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