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For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water -- around 86 gallons per day. In some cases you may be able to achieve even greater energy savings if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet.
https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/tank ... er-heaters
redmanjp wrote:tankless over tank may be the way to go if ttec rates go up soon. u still get hot water all over the house just like tank but without the standby power consumption. yeah the tank would give hot water when the power is out but u have to also have water in the line from wasa as the pump wont work.
eitech wrote:redmanjp wrote:tankless over tank may be the way to go if ttec rates go up soon. u still get hot water all over the house just like tank but without the standby power consumption. yeah the tank would give hot water when the power is out but u have to also have water in the line from wasa as the pump wont work.
You have to manage your tank water heater. If you leave it on all the time, your standby consumption will be there. What i have done is hook up a timer to leave it on for one hr only. Thats enough water for two days. And if i need hot water i plan in advance to at least put it on remotely or otherwise for at least an hour. My monthly consumption according to my app is like 25 to 60kw max. Rough $30 max per billing cycle.
Duane 3NE 2NR wrote:eitech wrote:redmanjp wrote:tankless over tank may be the way to go if ttec rates go up soon. u still get hot water all over the house just like tank but without the standby power consumption. yeah the tank would give hot water when the power is out but u have to also have water in the line from wasa as the pump wont work.
You have to manage your tank water heater. If you leave it on all the time, your standby consumption will be there. What i have done is hook up a timer to leave it on for one hr only. Thats enough water for two days. And if i need hot water i plan in advance to at least put it on remotely or otherwise for at least an hour. My monthly consumption according to my app is like 25 to 60kw max. Rough $30 max per billing cycle.
What smart plug / timer are you using?
Also what size water heater tank? 40Gal?
pugboy wrote:Can you provide details on this contactor setup ?
I wouldn’t mind doing that, can use one of those 120v programmable timers like what hydroponic ppl use.
It also helps to adjust the heater temp a touch down.
eitech wrote:De Dragon wrote:RedVEVO wrote:^^
Tankless better than Tank .
Waaaaay better !
With Tankless your hot water is practically unlimited .
With Tank the hot water is limited to the size (gallon) of your tank .
How much hot water do you need on a daily basis exactly?
Due to size constraints, I have the smallest water heater tank (Bradford White 40 gallon) and it is more than adequate
My Bradford white is 30 gallons
eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:Can you provide details on this contactor setup ?
I wouldn’t mind doing that, can use one of those 120v programmable timers like what hydroponic ppl use.
It also helps to adjust the heater temp a touch down.
My existing water heater supply is 3 core ecc cable . Basically the existing 220v supply was connected to a contactor’s input contacts (2 NO). A parallel connection was also made to a step down transformer (220v/120v). Didn’t want to use a separate circuit 120v connection hence the step down transformer. This 120v supplies the smart plug which outputs to the contactor’s coil. The output of the 2 NO contacts feeds the heater elements.
The toss up was either to use the mini transformer or pull a neutral/ new 4 core cable for the heater supply. I repurposed one of those small cable boxes digi or flow usually mount externally for their connections. The transformer mounts easily on it and the box is mount near the heater.
Of course with a smart plug programming is limitless so i use a off delay setting of one hour and a message notification so i know when the heater is being operated. Some ppl like to put on the heater every time they gonna bathe without checking to see if there is hot water. Trying to break that habit but in the mean time i can jus turn it off.
I am lookin into some sort of visual temperature device as well which will make the decision to use the heater easier as well. If you can see the actual temperature before turning on.
adnj wrote:eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:Can you provide details on this contactor setup ?
I wouldn’t mind doing that, can use one of those 120v programmable timers like what hydroponic ppl use.
It also helps to adjust the heater temp a touch down.
My existing water heater supply is 3 core ecc cable . Basically the existing 220v supply was connected to a contactor’s input contacts (2 NO). A parallel connection was also made to a step down transformer (220v/120v). Didn’t want to use a separate circuit 120v connection hence the step down transformer. This 120v supplies the smart plug which outputs to the contactor’s coil. The output of the 2 NO contacts feeds the heater elements.
The toss up was either to use the mini transformer or pull a neutral/ new 4 core cable for the heater supply. I repurposed one of those small cable boxes digi or flow usually mount externally for their connections. The transformer mounts easily on it and the box is mount near the heater.
Of course with a smart plug programming is limitless so i use a off delay setting of one hour and a message notification so i know when the heater is being operated. Some ppl like to put on the heater every time they gonna bathe without checking to see if there is hot water. Trying to break that habit but in the mean time i can jus turn it off.
I am lookin into some sort of visual temperature device as well which will make the decision to use the heater easier as well. If you can see the actual temperature before turning on.
No transformer is required.
230V single phase is two hot wires and a neutral wire. If the smart switch requires 115V, tee into one line-side hot wire and the neutral wire. If you want to use smaller gauge wires to supply the switch, use an inline fuse holder on the hot wire to the switch.
There are also smart switches made for electric water heaters that are programmable for both time and water temperature. Some can learn your usage habits and program themselves.
carluva wrote:I did a much simpler approach when working for our tank heater... The plug was wired to a rated switch. In the morning, we put it in and then take it off when all have bathed.
It's off all day until around 6PM when it's back on again for about two to three hours max and then off at night. There's enough hot water during the day even if the dishwasher is going. Mind you, our dishwasher is a HE so it uses about 8 gallons or so. For our 40 gallon heater, that's no big deal.
carluva wrote:No pug. Single phase 220V is a three wire system.
The 220V uses L1 hot, L2 hot and a ground.
The 120V uses a L1 hot, neutral and a ground.
Don't confuse the existence of 4 wires (L1, L2, neutral and ground) in the above as being a 4 wire system. It is three wire.
adnj wrote:
I have seen ground connections used instead of neutral connections for 230V single phase because both wires connect to the same point in your main panel. It was a common practice and it works but that can also energize the earthing/grounding wire. The reason why keeping them seperate is a great idea for shock protection is a lengthy discussion.
Manufacturers are simply moving toward grounded systems. Newer appliances are being delivered with a 4 wire 230V single phase plug for safety.
Tankless?Galvatron wrote:Hot water flows for about 5 seconds then goes cold. There is no power issues, and the supply breaker isn't tripping. Any suggestions?
gastly369 wrote:Tankless?Galvatron wrote:Hot water flows for about 5 seconds then goes cold. There is no power issues, and the supply breaker isn't tripping. Any suggestions?
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