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pugboy
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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » November 20th, 2021, 9:38 am

no very fast

eitech wrote:
pugboy wrote:probably concrete mixed badly so porous
you could pressure wash it and try roofing compound which is a rubbery paint from kaleidoscope

or the best rubber sealer is vulchem $800


Ok. Does it take long to dry?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Musical Doc » November 20th, 2021, 10:27 am

eitech wrote:
pugboy wrote:you need to give more info

eitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing.


The entire structure is concrete blocks and painted except for on top. Not sure exactly but you can see the pieces of gravel stones and not smooth. So the finish is not like the side walls. Hence why i said it not sealed


I saw Persad's Home Improvement in debe had Drylok Masonry Waterproofer. It stops seepage and leaks. Idk if anywhere else sells it. It was $395 a gallon there

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » November 20th, 2021, 11:52 am

Call Speciality Chemicals Ltd (SCL).

They have many products that will be able to solve your problems.

I have a few ideas but SCL is better equipped to advise.

Call the retail store in Barataria.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » November 20th, 2021, 12:24 pm

carluva wrote:Call Speciality Chemicals Ltd (SCL).

They have many products that will be able to solve your problems.

I have a few ideas but SCL is better equipped to advise.

Call the retail store in Barataria.

K tnx

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Strugglerzinc » November 20th, 2021, 12:54 pm

Also Creteart has a few concrete waterproofing products.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Duane 3NE 2NR » November 20th, 2021, 1:00 pm

Build To Last Roofing and hardware has price specials currently.

10CC0326-6536-468F-8FAB-6EC000967EC6.gif
10CC0326-6536-468F-8FAB-6EC000967EC6.gif (480.6 KiB) Viewed 2110 times

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby gastly369 » November 20th, 2021, 1:11 pm

eitech wrote:
VexXx Dogg wrote:90PSI? that's real high from WASA. you sure that measurement correct?


3b29b0c7-bada-45fd-9d00-5400c8e0f1d4.jpg


Ok
89. Gauge is correct
Yeh at nights we usually get around that

Over the years we blew out weak spots in the system but everything is more than capable now after some DIY vs initial plumbing of house

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » November 21st, 2021, 7:26 am

gastly369 wrote:
eitech wrote:
VexXx Dogg wrote:90PSI? that's real high from WASA. you sure that measurement correct?


3b29b0c7-bada-45fd-9d00-5400c8e0f1d4.jpg


Ok
89. Gauge is correct
Yeh at nights we usually get around that

Over the years we blew out weak spots in the system but everything is more than capable now after some DIY vs initial plumbing of house


Well its been 3yrs now and nothing has blown out so I hope all is well but really not so comfortable with that hi pressure na

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby VexXx Dogg » November 22nd, 2021, 10:31 am

jeezan ages, I think I so accustomed to seeing crap pressures here that 90 seems like a dream lol.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby daring dragoon » November 23rd, 2021, 4:49 am

how much does builders charge to put up a red block and plaster ?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Kenjo » November 23rd, 2021, 8:08 am

VexXx Dogg wrote:jeezan ages, I think I so accustomed to seeing crap pressures here that 90 seems like a dream lol.

People with the high water pressures , I have been noticing that the float in the water tank is getting stuck open in those high pressures from wasa. Is that normal once in a while or should I just replace the float ?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Musical Doc » November 23rd, 2021, 8:13 am

My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » November 23rd, 2021, 8:44 am

Kenjo wrote:
VexXx Dogg wrote:jeezan ages, I think I so accustomed to seeing crap pressures here that 90 seems like a dream lol.

People with the high water pressures , I have been noticing that the float in the water tank is getting stuck open in those high pressures from wasa. Is that normal once in a while or should I just replace the float ?


When the float reaches cut off level it supposed to lock off the supply valve and not be under any tension from the supply pressure. It jus supposed to be under upward force from water level. Could it be the linkage needs lubricating or adjustment?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby pugboy » November 23rd, 2021, 9:03 am

what happens is as it is almost closed
the high pressure causes the little trickle to vibrate and it never closes properly
you need to strap a piece of wood to the fill line to steady it

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Kenjo » November 23rd, 2021, 9:44 am

pugboy wrote:what happens is as it is almost closed
the high pressure causes the little trickle to vibrate and it never closes properly
you need to strap a piece of wood to the fill line to steady it

Ok yes I’ve turned off the supply so when I decant it down to the normal level I’ll try this . This happens about every 3 months or so . Wasa had some issues in valsayn substation this week but have fixed it yesterday so water came back with even extra force

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Chimera » November 23rd, 2021, 10:03 am

throw a enalapril 10mg in the tank every day to deal with that high pressure issue

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby worksux101 » November 23rd, 2021, 10:07 am

Phone Surgeon wrote:throw a enalapril 10mg in the tank every day to deal with that high pressure issue

Lmao

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » November 23rd, 2021, 12:24 pm

Kenjo wrote:
pugboy wrote:what happens is as it is almost closed
the high pressure causes the little trickle to vibrate and it never closes properly
you need to strap a piece of wood to the fill line to steady it

Ok yes I’ve turned off the supply so when I decant it down to the normal level I’ll try this . This happens about every 3 months or so . Wasa had some issues in valsayn substation this week but have fixed it yesterday so water came back with even extra force


If the main line that fills the tank has a lockoff valve OR each tank has its own individual lockoff valve, you can close this/these valve/s slightly to reduce the pressure and flow to the tanks. This could also help with the vibration and trickle flow. If you have individual lockoff valves to multiple tanks, you can even adjust each to a different position so you have a similar flow to each tank. The optimum time to do this activity is when the pressure and flow is the highest.

Also, those fill valves sometimes fail. So if you service as eitech advised and it still does not work, replace the valve with a high quality brass valve.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » November 23rd, 2021, 12:27 pm

daring dragoon wrote:how much does builders charge to put up a red block and plaster ?


A good mason will be about $400 - $500 per day.

A labourer is about $300 per day. A good labourer who can do some masonry work may run about $400.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby carluva » November 23rd, 2021, 12:52 pm

Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?


No issue with that. However you need to ensure that those first floor columns are contiguous with the first floor beams.

In a very basic sense, your structural support for a house should be like this:

Augered piles in foundation whose rebar is interlaced with the foundation mat. (In your construction, there may not be any augered piles, but there will be mats).

Columns on the ground floor which support the first floor decking - the rebar in these columns is interlaced with the previous foundation mat rebar. Note as well that there will be a ground beam whose rebar is also interlaced with the foundation mat and the ground floor columns.

First floor beams and decking - the rebar from these beams is interlaced with the rebar in the previous columns on the ground floor. Remember these beams support the first floor spans.

Columns on first floor - the rebar from these columns is interlaced with the rebar in the previous beams and decking.

Ring beam - this is constructed across the previous columns (and walls once built). Rebar from the previos columns are interlaced with the rebar in the ring beam. Rebar in the ring beam is then left exposed to connect the structural steel from the roof.

As you can see all rebar on load bearing columns and beams in interconnected and transfers all load back to the foundation.

If you simply erect columns on your top decking without having these columns connected to your foundation and then you further build a roof on that later, the structural load and static and dynamic forces (due to wind pressure on your roof) will not transfer back to the foundation. In an earthquake (or even land settlement due to loads) the upper part of your building will be separate from the lower part and can move in a different direction leading to major (and quite possibly irreparable) structural defects and damage. The house structure and load bearing components all need to be interconnected so that loads and forces are sent downward to the foundation where the load is then spread across the earth.

If you know for certain that rebar has ben left exposed for the columns on the top decking AND that this rebar is interconnected to the beams and lower columns all the way back to the foundation, then your plan is perfectly sensible, feasible and ought to be structurally safe. If however you cannot confirm this, or you do not have rebar exposed at the top, then your plan is not safe in the long run and cause significant safety issues and cause you to burn money over time. In a matter of years, you will begin to see structural cracks and defects, guaranteed. In the case of the latter, I will advise you seek the guidance of an engineer who can advise on what can be done to get your first floor going.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Musical Doc » November 23rd, 2021, 1:21 pm

carluva wrote:
Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?


No issue with that. However you need to ensure that those first floor columns are contiguous with the first floor beams.

In a very basic sense, your structural support for a house should be like this:

Augered piles in foundation whose rebar is interlaced with the foundation mat. (In your construction, there may not be any augered piles, but there will be mats).

Columns on the ground floor which support the first floor decking - the rebar in these columns is interlaced with the previous foundation mat rebar. Note as well that there will be a ground beam whose rebar is also interlaced with the foundation mat and the ground floor columns.

First floor beams and decking - the rebar from these beams is interlaced with the rebar in the previous columns on the ground floor. Remember these beams support the first floor spans.

Columns on first floor - the rebar from these columns is interlaced with the rebar in the previous beams and decking.

Ring beam - this is constructed across the previous columns (and walls once built). Rebar from the previos columns are interlaced with the rebar in the ring beam. Rebar in the ring beam is then left exposed to connect the structural steel from the roof.

As you can see all rebar on load bearing columns and beams in interconnected and transfers all load back to the foundation.

If you simply erect columns on your top decking without having these columns connected to your foundation and then you further build a roof on that later, the structural load and static and dynamic forces (due to wind pressure on your roof) will not transfer back to the foundation. In an earthquake (or even land settlement due to loads) the upper part of your building will be separate from the lower part and can move in a different direction leading to major (and quite possibly irreparable) structural defects and damage. The house structure and load bearing components all need to be interconnected so that loads and forces are sent downward to the foundation where the load is then spread across the earth.

If you know for certain that rebar has ben left exposed for the columns on the top decking AND that this rebar is interconnected to the beams and lower columns all the way back to the foundation, then your plan is perfectly sensible, feasible and ought to be structurally safe. If however you cannot confirm this, or you do not have rebar exposed at the top, then your plan is not safe in the long run and cause significant safety issues and cause you to burn money over time. In a matter of years, you will begin to see structural cracks and defects, guaranteed. In the case of the latter, I will advise you seek the guidance of an engineer who can advise on what can be done to get your first floor going.


Thanks alot for this explanation buddy. It makes sense what you're saying.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby bgh » November 23rd, 2021, 3:49 pm

eitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Drylock is the best option. 400 from peaks
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Cantmis » November 24th, 2021, 12:23 pm

Abs sale worth it ?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Kenjo » November 24th, 2021, 3:47 pm

Sissons sale until Saturday with 200$ off on a second bucket of paint with vaccine card

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Dave » November 24th, 2021, 7:16 pm

Guys looking for a water tight tubing with flex with 1.25" internal diameter. Looking to bridge a sink drain that has a bend from where the original was located.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Duane 3NE 2NR » November 24th, 2021, 11:47 pm

Dave wrote:Guys looking for a water tight tubing with flex with 1.25" internal diameter. Looking to bridge a sink drain that has a bend from where the original was located.

Check Trinidad Hose
657-2766, 2009, 1275

make sure you spell hose correctly

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Dave » November 25th, 2021, 7:30 am

Haha oldest joke in the book.
Did plan to check them. I saw pond systems has something that can work so guess those sort of places should have it.

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby eitech » November 26th, 2021, 6:51 am

bgh wrote:
eitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Drylock is the best option. 400 from peaks
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.


Kool. Which location?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby Jerry84 » November 28th, 2021, 9:15 pm

carluva wrote:
Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?


No issue with that. However you need to ensure that those first floor columns are contiguous with the first floor beams.

In a very basic sense, your structural support for a house should be like this:

Augered piles in foundation whose rebar is interlaced with the foundation mat. (In your construction, there may not be any augered piles, but there will be mats).

Columns on the ground floor which support the first floor decking - the rebar in these columns is interlaced with the previous foundation mat rebar. Note as well that there will be a ground beam whose rebar is also interlaced with the foundation mat and the ground floor columns.

First floor beams and decking - the rebar from these beams is interlaced with the rebar in the previous columns on the ground floor. Remember these beams support the first floor spans.

Columns on first floor - the rebar from these columns is interlaced with the rebar in the previous beams and decking.

Ring beam - this is constructed across the previous columns (and walls once built). Rebar from the previos columns are interlaced with the rebar in the ring beam. Rebar in the ring beam is then left exposed to connect the structural steel from the roof.

As you can see all rebar on load bearing columns and beams in interconnected and transfers all load back to the foundation.

If you simply erect columns on your top decking without having these columns connected to your foundation and then you further build a roof on that later, the structural load and static and dynamic forces (due to wind pressure on your roof) will not transfer back to the foundation. In an earthquake (or even land settlement due to loads) the upper part of your building will be separate from the lower part and can move in a different direction leading to major (and quite possibly irreparable) structural defects and damage. The house structure and load bearing components all need to be interconnected so that loads and forces are sent downward to the foundation where the load is then spread across the earth.

If you know for certain that rebar has ben left exposed for the columns on the top decking AND that this rebar is interconnected to the beams and lower columns all the way back to the foundation, then your plan is perfectly sensible, feasible and ought to be structurally safe. If however you cannot confirm this, or you do not have rebar exposed at the top, then your plan is not safe in the long run and cause significant safety issues and cause you to burn money over time. In a matter of years, you will begin to see structural cracks and defects, guaranteed. In the case of the latter, I will advise you seek the guidance of an engineer who can advise on what can be done to get your first floor going.
As you stated the ring beam accepts the roof via the steel left exposed/upright. My question is how far apart do you need to leave these steel exposed in the ring beam? In other words how far apart should the roof's ibeams be?
Currently doing an extension that's 30 x 28. The roof is a simple gable type. How far apart should the steel be along the 30 ft side?

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Re: Building a house in Trinidad

Postby De Dragon » November 28th, 2021, 9:20 pm

eitech wrote:
bgh wrote:
eitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Drylock is the best option. 400 from peaks
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.


Kool. Which location?

Cocorite most likely

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