Moderator: 3ne2nr Mods
Kenjo wrote:
Yes it’s a very old house but it has the 3 wires coming in. Getting an electrician to come in this week to let me know what can be done but not worth rewiring the house . Anyone has an idea where to get these generators.... or the specs at least ?
Just to give an average of the prices for generators in Pricesmart, I passed yesterday and noticed a 5000 diesel one for about $4100, so that should give you an average up work with, and that's the one with wheels that you can move around withpugboy wrote:Generators are rated by kv
2000 are common portable ones you can lift with handle
5000 and up are a bit noticeably bigger and on wheels
You need at least 7-8000 to weld
Pricesmart sometimes has that sizeKenjo wrote:
Yes it’s a very old house but it has the 3 wires coming in. Getting an electrician to come in this week to let me know what can be done but not worth rewiring the house . Anyone has an idea where to get these generators.... or the specs at least ?
Thanks for the pic.Kenjo wrote:
Yes it’s a very old house but it has the 3 wires coming in. Getting an electrician to come in this week to let me know what can be done but not worth rewiring the house . Anyone has an idea where to get these generators.... or the specs at least ?
adnj wrote:Thanks for the pic.Kenjo wrote:
Yes it’s a very old house but it has the 3 wires coming in. Getting an electrician to come in this week to let me know what can be done but not worth rewiring the house . Anyone has an idea where to get these generators.... or the specs at least ?
You have a 115/230V 60A 3-wire single-phase supply. You can install a 230V 50A welding receptacle. You will be at the limit for electrical supply so anything more than a few lights and a fan turned on while you are welding will likely trip the main breaker.
Install a 50A 2-gang switch to control the outlet. If you mount the outlet within easy reach of the panel, you could rely on the breaker in an emergency and the switch can be omitted.
Welding outlet 3-wire diagram.
2-gang switch with pilot light. This is similar to the switch used for a shower heater but check the rating to be sure. Most shower heater switches are rated to 30A, not 50A.
sjenille4 wrote:Varma vs Damus vs CJ hardware? Nu wave roofing coatings fade so fast. Anyone bought from these places and it does not get moss? I cant afford standing seam.
ProtonPowder wrote:Generally speaking, what is the cost /sf for standing seam vs nu-wave for a low pitch simple gable roof?
jl6106 wrote:Guys your advice please. What is the best way to retroactively install heat shield matting to a house?
pugboy wrote:Well you either do it from the top(removing roof sheets and lay the radiant barrier)
Or do it from below and remove the ceiling and use double sided tape on the bottom of purlins and stretch it out and stick.
I did that for a shed we have and was easy as there is no ceiling
I also screwed some flat wood strips to the purlins
Made a huge difference
What is your situation ?jl6106 wrote:Guys your advice please. What is the best way to retroactively install heat shield matting to a house?
rspann wrote:The space created by doing it after, will actually make it work better. Cut some 1/2" PVC pipe along the length, and use that with some tek point screws to hold it up on the purlins. There is also one to spray on ,but I can't recall it now.
jl6106 wrote:Thanks for the info guys appreciated.
eitech wrote:So i went to land and survey on wrightson road with my deed and they couldnt locate my property on their system although the general area was there. Seemed like a really old map before they developed the area. Anyways, they sent me to ministry of legal affairs and another deep search was done and still nothin. Went to another section of the building, and with a lil “help”, i was able to go really far back to see original deed for the place. But, it was concluded that there was no survey plan for the place. Mind you all i want to know is where one side of my boundary is. So, i was advised by a guy in there that a surveyor could still do the plan. The same surveyor that sent me on all that run around in the first place and said i needed to get a plan
*KRONIK* wrote:Surveyors prefer to use previous ingormation which they can work with before they re-survey the property and re-register a new plan for it.eitech wrote:So i went to land and survey on wrightson road with my deed and they couldnt locate my property on their system although the general area was there. Seemed like a really old map before they developed the area. Anyways, they sent me to ministry of legal affairs and another deep search was done and still nothin. Went to another section of the building, and with a lil “help”, i was able to go really far back to see original deed for the place. But, it was concluded that there was no survey plan for the place. Mind you all i want to know is where one side of my boundary is. So, i was advised by a guy in there that a surveyor could still do the plan. The same surveyor that sent me on all that run around in the first place and said i needed to get a plan
Roofs have convective heat gain that is best handled with a dead space between the roof and the living area.pugboy wrote:Yes, the R factor is two or three times better with a 1.5” or more space than .5”
According to the sheet that the roll came with.
Air is a poor conductor so the larger the airspace the better.rspann wrote:The space created by doing it after, will actually make it work better. Cut some 1/2" PVC pipe along the length, and use that with some tek point screws to hold it up on the purlins. There is also one to spray on ,but I can't recall it now.
pugboy wrote:What type of ceiling you have?jl6106 wrote:Thanks for the info guys appreciated.
Jerry84 wrote:Just enquiring....what's the real length of steel (rhs, solid square, etc)???
Seem to only be around 19 feet or a few inches over....not the 20 feet they say it is. Can anybody confirm??
6 meters is the length, ~19' 6-1/2". It is that length to fit inside of a standard ISO shipping container.Jerry84 wrote:Just enquiring....what's the real length of steel (rhs, solid square, etc)???
Seem to only be around 19 feet or a few inches over....not the 20 feet they say it is. Can anybody confirm??
De Dragon wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:Surveyors prefer to use previous ingormation which they can work with before they re-survey the property and re-register a new plan for it.eitech wrote:So i went to land and survey on wrightson road with my deed and they couldnt locate my property on their system although the general area was there. Seemed like a really old map before they developed the area. Anyways, they sent me to ministry of legal affairs and another deep search was done and still nothin. Went to another section of the building, and with a lil “help”, i was able to go really far back to see original deed for the place. But, it was concluded that there was no survey plan for the place. Mind you all i want to know is where one side of my boundary is. So, i was advised by a guy in there that a surveyor could still do the plan. The same surveyor that sent me on all that run around in the first place and said i needed to get a plan
I had a surveyor who did my sheit and NEVER submitted it to T/C 6 months it took me to unravel that piece of fackery and get back my money.