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Thanks for the info. Know anyone who might be competent to do this?pugboy wrote:yeah, the whole floor would just pop off if they did that.
I have seen them weld bolts to the decking pan above the beams and supposed to make sure the weld puddle penetrates the pan and into the beam, so the bolt acts to keep the concrete tied to the decking pan and the weld attached the pan to the beams
need a competent welder who knows what they doing as welding galvanized material is easy to mistake for a good weldJerry84 wrote:What's the process of attaching decking pan to a steel structure? I honestly thought you just drop in the decking pan after the fabricating of the steel and assembly of the building.
But when I think about it, this doesn't sound logical so I want to know what are the options.
Thank you. Where can I source these type of bolts or whatever they're called?carluva wrote:See sample detail.Jerry84 wrote:What's the process of attaching decking pan to a steel structure? I honestly thought you just drop in the decking pan after the fabricating of the steel and assembly of the building.
But when I think about it, this doesn't sound logical so I want to know what are the options.
Jerry84 wrote:Thank you. Where can I source these type of bolts or whatever they're called?carluva wrote:See sample detail.Jerry84 wrote:What's the process of attaching decking pan to a steel structure? I honestly thought you just drop in the decking pan after the fabricating of the steel and assembly of the building.
But when I think about it, this doesn't sound logical so I want to know what are the options.
Jerry84 wrote:Thank you. Where can I source these type of bolts or whatever they're called?carluva wrote:See sample detail.Screenshot_20211222-210631_1.jpgJerry84 wrote:What's the process of attaching decking pan to a steel structure? I honestly thought you just drop in the decking pan after the fabricating of the steel and assembly of the building.
But when I think about it, this doesn't sound logical so I want to know what are the options.
carluva wrote:Good day folks.
Any recommendations for a good architect or designer for a new house?
pugboy wrote:like yuh buy a piece of land from dg
pugboy wrote:like yuh buy a piece of land from dg
timemastee wrote:Hey just purchased a lot of land and it has all the approves and whatnot.
I have a few questions.
Any idea of the cost of wire fencing per sqft or so? I'd like to fence before I start anything then move to a concrete wall later down the road.
Thinking of getting a custom house design because I really do hate how houses are designed in trinidad and want something a bit modern. Any idea on the cost or complexity in doing this? I've seen how plans from $8-12k which is good costing but I dont like the designs I've seen.
Also any major concern with building on sand-type soil? It's more gravel IMO with a mix or dirty as you dig deeper (flat area forest that get cut down)
I've yet to look into a contractor and so on to build yet as just want to secure the land first before i start anything.
De Dragon wrote:timemastee wrote:Hey just purchased a lot of land and it has all the approves and whatnot.
I have a few questions.
Any idea of the cost of wire fencing per sqft or so? I'd like to fence before I start anything then move to a concrete wall later down the road.
Thinking of getting a custom house design because I really do hate how houses are designed in trinidad and want something a bit modern. Any idea on the cost or complexity in doing this? I've seen how plans from $8-12k which is good costing but I dont like the designs I've seen.
Also any major concern with building on sand-type soil? It's more gravel IMO with a mix or dirty as you dig deeper (flat area forest that get cut down)
I've yet to look into a contractor and so on to build yet as just want to secure the land first before i start anything.
I'd suggest wirewall/security fencing, but if you're looking to go concrete later on, chain link might be more cost effective. Cost? A roll of chain link is like $1300-1800 depending on height, gauge and coating. You will of course have to measure the area and purchase accordingly.
Going to start fencing a new property soon.We decided to go with galvanize fence.Same framing for chainlink.How high do you want to go and what is the length of fence required?timemastee wrote:De Dragon wrote:timemastee wrote:Hey just purchased a lot of land and it has all the approves and whatnot.
I have a few questions.
Any idea of the cost of wire fencing per sqft or so? I'd like to fence before I start anything then move to a concrete wall later down the road.
Thinking of getting a custom house design because I really do hate how houses are designed in trinidad and want something a bit modern. Any idea on the cost or complexity in doing this? I've seen how plans from $8-12k which is good costing but I dont like the designs I've seen.
Also any major concern with building on sand-type soil? It's more gravel IMO with a mix or dirty as you dig deeper (flat area forest that get cut down)
I've yet to look into a contractor and so on to build yet as just want to secure the land first before i start anything.
I'd suggest wirewall/security fencing, but if you're looking to go concrete later on, chain link might be more cost effective. Cost? A roll of chain link is like $1300-1800 depending on height, gauge and coating. You will of course have to measure the area and purchase accordingly.
My padna was suggesting the same thing but because I might leave that fence for 5 year if it keep good.
Any idea on the life span difference? I've seem some wirewalls rust and break down within 10 years
Tar Baby wrote:Hi all,
Recommendations on where to buy quarts/granite? What's the going prices? Need about 19'
Did a small search but didnt find much.
carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
Soul Collector wrote:carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
The air is coming mainly from gaps in the window frame itself after taking another look. Once the frame is closed, there are gaps of 1/4" or less vertically (where iron window frame meets main iron housing) and smaller gaps on the underneath/top of the frame.
There's no space between any of the masonry work, just that the frames don't fit very tightly or snug once closed. The curtains are always blowing as if windows are opened when a strong breeze passes, lol
Soul Collector wrote:carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
The air is coming mainly from gaps in the window frame itself after taking another look. Once the frame is closed, there are gaps of 1/4" or less vertically (where iron window frame meets main iron housing) and smaller gaps on the underneath/top of the frame.
There's no space between any of the masonry work, just that the frames don't fit very tightly or snug once closed. The curtains are always blowing as if windows are opened when a strong breeze passes, lol
Kronik wrote:Soul Collector wrote:carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
The air is coming mainly from gaps in the window frame itself after taking another look. Once the frame is closed, there are gaps of 1/4" or less vertically (where iron window frame meets main iron housing) and smaller gaps on the underneath/top of the frame.
There's no space between any of the masonry work, just that the frames don't fit very tightly or snug once closed. The curtains are always blowing as if windows are opened when a strong breeze passes, lol
Considering your name is soul collector, could just be a ghost coming for collection lol
Could have gotten the rubber used around glass and put that on the window edges
You could also run a bead of siliconeSoul Collector wrote:Kronik wrote:Soul Collector wrote:carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
The air is coming mainly from gaps in the window frame itself after taking another look. Once the frame is closed, there are gaps of 1/4" or less vertically (where iron window frame meets main iron housing) and smaller gaps on the underneath/top of the frame.
There's no space between any of the masonry work, just that the frames don't fit very tightly or snug once closed. The curtains are always blowing as if windows are opened when a strong breeze passes, lol
Considering your name is soul collector, could just be a ghost coming for collection lol
Could have gotten the rubber used around glass and put that on the window edges
Well boi... if the window gets sealed up and curtain still moving, then I feel is sumn coming to collect me yes
That idea with the rubber is actually the damn thing self! A simple strip around the frame and it should give a pretty nice, unnoticeable seal. With the tape, I wouldn't have been able to open the windows which I didn't mind too much but with the rubber it retains the functionality. Something like that didn't even cross my mind, thank you!
Dragon, if it were a bigger gap and for something more permanent, I may have tried the foam. Saw a friend use that can foam to seal a 1" gap between his window frame and wall (frame came out smaller than intended). It looked like a lil therapy to use, lol. Thanks tho.
Car trunk rubber by Radica's should be cheapSoul Collector wrote:Kronik wrote:Soul Collector wrote:carluva wrote:Is the air rushing in between the window frame and the masonry window pocket/opening?
What is the size of the gap you are attempting to seal?
The air is coming mainly from gaps in the window frame itself after taking another look. Once the frame is closed, there are gaps of 1/4" or less vertically (where iron window frame meets main iron housing) and smaller gaps on the underneath/top of the frame.
There's no space between any of the masonry work, just that the frames don't fit very tightly or snug once closed. The curtains are always blowing as if windows are opened when a strong breeze passes, lol
Considering your name is soul collector, could just be a ghost coming for collection lol
Could have gotten the rubber used around glass and put that on the window edges
Well boi... if the window gets sealed up and curtain still moving, then I feel is sumn coming to collect me yes
That idea with the rubber is actually the damn thing self! A simple strip around the frame and it should give a pretty nice, unnoticeable seal. With the tape, I wouldn't have been able to open the windows which I didn't mind too much but with the rubber it retains the functionality. Something like that didn't even cross my mind, thank you!
Dragon, if it were a bigger gap and for something more permanent, I may have tried the foam. Saw a friend use that can foam to seal a 1" gap between his window frame and wall (frame came out smaller than intended). It looked like a lil therapy to use, lol. Thanks tho.
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