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shake d livin wake d dead wrote:What is fair price for the following scope of works? Its a plumbing job
3 toilets and baths, 1 laundry room and kitchen. Person is only required to
Run out all lines (hot and cold for showers only) for inside as well as toilets etc. All pipes on the outside will run out on building etc. No venting for toilets as yet.
No water is being placed in the building as well as septic tank not being done at the moment. All the work being done is just to ensure I can safely carry out tiling inside after. So im just looking for an average labour cost for job described.
Thanks
SameZeroOne wrote:How the price of steel looking?
Want to build a garage
carluva wrote:Rough and dirty estimate.
One day per each bathroom.
One day for laundry room.
One day as contingency.
Five days total at about $500 per day for the plumber = $2,500.
Figure $3,000 with a markup on the job for the plumber.
That cost excludes material.shake d livin wake d dead wrote:What is fair price for the following scope of works? Its a plumbing job
3 toilets and baths, 1 laundry room and kitchen. Person is only required to
Run out all lines (hot and cold for showers only) for inside as well as toilets etc. All pipes on the outside will run out on building etc. No venting for toilets as yet.
No water is being placed in the building as well as septic tank not being done at the moment. All the work being done is just to ensure I can safely carry out tiling inside after. So im just looking for an average labour cost for job described.
Thanks
So I was given a suggestion to box the ibeam and cast it after drilling the ground and driving some steel down. I have some half inch steel. Do you all think this would be sufficient?Jerry84 wrote:Good day. Looking for suggestions for the following problem. So there is a shed/parking area to the back of my house. This structure is supported by steel posts. The one at the end which is susceptible to weathering is corroded at the bottom. I fear it may collapse after a period of time. Looking for possible solutions. Attached is a picture of what it currently looks like.
Thanks
It's cast into the holepugboy wrote:is it bolted to a plate ? or cast into a hole?
Jerry84 wrote:So I was given a suggestion to box the ibeam and cast it after drilling the ground and driving some steel down. I have some half inch steel. Do you all think this would be sufficient?
VexXx Dogg wrote:Any recent recommendations for foundation to finish residential contractors? turnkey options even better.
I saw HJ Designs on social media and their stuff looks good - dunno anyone who used them tho: https://www.facebook.com/hjdesignsltd
Another is
ALJA development: https://www.facebook.com/aljadevelopment
Jerry84 wrote:It's cast into the holepugboy wrote:is it bolted to a plate ? or cast into a hole?
carluva wrote:More pics.
Septic tank exterior wall coated with waterproof coating and wrapped with geotextile fabric.
Pump sump coated with waterproof coating and mortared on the inside. Filling up the outside in progress
Soakaway and trench covered with geotextile fabric and started to cover back up.
Upper trench shaped and read for 4" pipes.IMG_20210804_153216002_HDR.jpgIMG_20210804_153227043_HDR.jpgIMG_20210804_153243889_HDR.jpgIMG_20210804_153249468_HDR.jpg
Thanks. Would look into this optionRory Phoulorie wrote:Jerry84 wrote:So I was given a suggestion to box the ibeam and cast it after drilling the ground and driving some steel down. I have some half inch steel. Do you all think this would be sufficient?
The rebar for the concrete encasement to the column has to be set into the concrete using an epoxy adhesive . You should also weld some crabs (R12 rebar in an L shape about 100mm long) to the intact section of the steel column. Then encase the steel column in concrete for a minimum height of 600mm from the ground with the dimensions to the outer edge of the concrete encasement being 75mm from the outer edge of the steel column. Wrap some 75mm x 75mm x 5g welded wire fabric around the steel column before encasing it.
abbow wrote:carluva wrote:More pics.
Septic tank exterior wall coated with waterproof coating and wrapped with geotextile fabric.
Pump sump coated with waterproof coating and mortared on the inside. Filling up the outside in progress
Soakaway and trench covered with geotextile fabric and started to cover back up.
Upper trench shaped and read for 4" pipes.IMG_20210804_153216002_HDR.jpgIMG_20210804_153227043_HDR.jpgIMG_20210804_153243889_HDR.jpgIMG_20210804_153249468_HDR.jpg
bro where you get the waterproof coating to buy?
Habit7 wrote:Who does mountings of ceiling fans?
carluva wrote:Habit7 wrote:Who does mountings of ceiling fans?
If wiring is already in place, this is fairly easy for a competent DIYer. I have done two in my home already, with some help to lift the fan motor.
However, you need to ensure a few things for safety purposes:
1. A Metal Octagon Can must be installed in the ceiling. Not PVC. The fan is affixed to the metal can which is structurally stronger than a PVC.
2. The metal can must be strapped to the ceiling. In other words, C-Channel must be screwed to the can and this C-Channel is then screwed to the roof purlins (if possible). If this cannot be done, the cross braces using C-Channel can be screwed to the can and then affixed to the C-Channel for the ceiling (if suspended gypsum ceiling). Other means of safely strapping are acceptable depending on ceiling type, but the goal is to ensure that the octagon can is safely secured to a stronger part of the structure to be able to take the suspended weight of a ceiling fan and the accompanying forces when on.
3. If securing to the underside of concrete decking, ideally, the octagon can should have been set flush on the underside of the decking (i.e. the "ceiling") and secured to rebar accordingly.
If none of these exist or are possible, do not install the ceiling fan. It is a safety hazard.
Once the octagon can is safely secured, you can then install the fan affixed to the octagon can. The fan will have all the necessary bracketry to install on a can.
Habit7 wrote:It's a gypsum ceiling on the top floor so it will need something to support it. I trust myself to change a light bulb, beyond that in the electrical department, I like to call a professional.
Habit7 wrote:carluva wrote:Habit7 wrote:Who does mountings of ceiling fans?
If wiring is already in place, this is fairly easy for a competent DIYer. I have done two in my home already, with some help to lift the fan motor.
However, you need to ensure a few things for safety purposes:
1. A Metal Octagon Can must be installed in the ceiling. Not PVC. The fan is affixed to the metal can which is structurally stronger than a PVC.
2. The metal can must be strapped to the ceiling. In other words, C-Channel must be screwed to the can and this C-Channel is then screwed to the roof purlins (if possible). If this cannot be done, the cross braces using C-Channel can be screwed to the can and then affixed to the C-Channel for the ceiling (if suspended gypsum ceiling). Other means of safely strapping are acceptable depending on ceiling type, but the goal is to ensure that the octagon can is safely secured to a stronger part of the structure to be able to take the suspended weight of a ceiling fan and the accompanying forces when on.
3. If securing to the underside of concrete decking, ideally, the octagon can should have been set flush on the underside of the decking (i.e. the "ceiling") and secured to rebar accordingly.
If none of these exist or are possible, do not install the ceiling fan. It is a safety hazard.
Once the octagon can is safely secured, you can then install the fan affixed to the octagon can. The fan will have all the necessary bracketry to install on a can.
It's a gypsum ceiling on the top floor so it will need something to support it. I trust myself to change a light bulb, beyond that in the electrical department, I like to call a professional.
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