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*KRONIK* wrote:So augering/pile question:
If i want to install those pre-fab fence
They are 8ft wide x 7ft tall
I need to do 80ft in length
Where i need to install them doest have any wall or floor to bolt the posts.
So i was thinking of doing some small 1ft x 1ft piled concrete pads along the proposed fenceline to install the posts onto.
Reason is i need something removable in the long term as the drive way will need to be placed somewhere in the middle and eventually, a wall to replace the fence.
I was thinking longterm, chainlink is a bit diffucult to reuse as it sags and rusts.
Fence posts (2" pipe) will need to be cast in the ground and eventually cut off to be removed and may not be of a usable length after.
With the prefab panels elsewhere (maybe as the back fence), i can reuse the posts and fence as they are all bolt on
So if i have to do the small piles....
What is a good width and depth?
Notedmatix wrote:*KRONIK* wrote:So augering/pile question:
If i want to install those pre-fab fence
They are 8ft wide x 7ft tall
I need to do 80ft in length
Where i need to install them doest have any wall or floor to bolt the posts.
So i was thinking of doing some small 1ft x 1ft piled concrete pads along the proposed fenceline to install the posts onto.
Reason is i need something removable in the long term as the drive way will need to be placed somewhere in the middle and eventually, a wall to replace the fence.
I was thinking longterm, chainlink is a bit diffucult to reuse as it sags and rusts.
Fence posts (2" pipe) will need to be cast in the ground and eventually cut off to be removed and may not be of a usable length after.
With the prefab panels elsewhere (maybe as the back fence), i can reuse the posts and fence as they are all bolt on
So if i have to do the small piles....
What is a good width and depth?
The prefab fences not bad, from my experience they’re not long term as the ones available now aren’t of the best quality. What you got years ago compared to now is a major drop in quality. Call Trinrico and ask for the chain link wire, there’s a much thicker guage as compared to the ‘regular’ cheap, saggy one available at most hardwares. With the good chain link wire you can simply do 2” metal posts, pull yuh chain link, tie it off and when yuh ready to remove it, untie, roll up and use it elsewhere.
The town and country planning act and guide to developers and applicants for planning permission.pugboy wrote:anybody have link to town country document/law about building setbacks from boundary walls etc?
kerwinishere wrote:The town and country planning act and guide to developers and applicants for planning permission.pugboy wrote:anybody have link to town country document/law about building setbacks from boundary walls etc?
Setbacks you'd find in Spatial Planning Guidelines.
Typically as follows:
-7.5m from building to boundary line adjacent to primary road reserve
-4.5m from building to boundary line adjacent to secondary road reserve
-2.5m from the building to side boundary lines (if it's a lot and not a road reserve)
3.5m from the building to rear boundary line (if it's a lot and not a road reserve)
Setbacks change with the Classification/location of lots especially where areas are earmarked for anything other than residential use. Your best bet would be emailing the TCPD Planner for your region with your survey and proof of ownership and making a formal request for the setbacks for your plot.
While the building is being constructed would be the best time to bring it to the attention of the releavnt authorities (TCPD, relevant Municipal Corporation along with it's CEO, ESO, Building Inspector, Chairman and your councillor). Don't wait until the building is actually causing a problem to make a report.pugboy wrote:I was looking at that same doc, but there seem to be some unclear points about classification of residential vs commercial and having connection to the amount of building area as you mention.
There is a commercial building going up nearby which is about 4ft from the boundary line to the road.
Which I suspect is clear contravention of the requirement but need proper clarification.
I suspect there is vagueity for a reason.........kerwinishere wrote:The town and country planning act and guide to developers and applicants for planning permission.pugboy wrote:anybody have link to town country document/law about building setbacks from boundary walls etc?
Setbacks you'd find in Spatial Planning Guidelines.
Typically as follows:
-7.5m from building to boundary line adjacent to primary road reserve
-4.5m from building to boundary line adjacent to secondary road reserve
-2.5m from the building to side boundary lines (if it's a lot and not a road reserve)
3.5m from the building to rear boundary line (if it's a lot and not a road reserve)
Setbacks change with the Classification/location of lots especially where areas are earmarked for anything other than residential use. Your best bet would be emailing the TCPD Planner for your region with your survey and proof of ownership and making a formal request for the setbacks for your plot.
Most people do this. The novelty fades rapidly.pugboy wrote:somebody i know who has one dumped it after it malfunctioned
88sins wrote:Gonna start construction of a building soon. Anybody got any ideas as to where has reasonable prices for steel these days?
Called a few places recently, and the average these days is about 11k/ton. Them prices crazy, gonna need about 3-4 tons in total.
Phone Surgeon wrote:Anand low price has good prices but I not sure about the quality/ grade
Bhagwansinghs has consistently good quality
Galvanize soffit materialworksux101 wrote:MR gypsum in an exposed (only one wall) outdoor garage? Yay or nay?
What other ceiling options available apart from PVC?
worksux101 wrote:MR gypsum in an exposed (only one wall) outdoor garage? Yay or nay?
What other ceiling options available apart from PVC?
matix wrote:worksux101 wrote:MR gypsum in an exposed (only one wall) outdoor garage? Yay or nay?
What other ceiling options available apart from PVC?
NuWave or Standing seam. Easy install, easy to clean, long life span, wide range of colors.
worksux101 wrote:matix wrote:worksux101 wrote:MR gypsum in an exposed (only one wall) outdoor garage? Yay or nay?
What other ceiling options available apart from PVC?
NuWave or Standing seam. Easy install, easy to clean, long life span, wide range of colors.
Can use these as a ceiling?
The roofing over it is standing seam on rhs/I beams
worksux101 wrote:matix wrote:worksux101 wrote:MR gypsum in an exposed (only one wall) outdoor garage? Yay or nay?
What other ceiling options available apart from PVC?
NuWave or Standing seam. Easy install, easy to clean, long life span, wide range of colors.
Can use these as a ceiling?
The roofing over it is standing seam on rhs/I beams
pugboy wrote:i have the green supposedly moisture resistant gypsum as under eave ceiling and it has held up for many years
At 11k per tonne it's actually a lower price. Prices are rumored to drop in the near future.88sins wrote:Gonna start construction of a building soon. Anybody got any ideas as to where has reasonable prices for steel these days?
Called a few places recently, and the average these days is about 11k/ton. Them prices crazy, gonna need about 3-4 tons in total.
fokhan_96 wrote:Most people do this. The novelty fades rapidly.pugboy wrote:somebody i know who has one dumped it after it malfunctioned
MG Man wrote:worksux101 wrote:matix wrote:worksux101 wrote:MR gypsum in an exposed (only one wall) outdoor garage? Yay or nay?
What other ceiling options available apart from PVC?
NuWave or Standing seam. Easy install, easy to clean, long life span, wide range of colors.
Can use these as a ceiling?
The roofing over it is standing seam on rhs/I beams
you can use the metal 'underseal' sheets as a ceiling option. Just look at most modern unipets and you'll get an idea what it looks like
Just remember your ceiling should be VERY well insulated and ventilated, with a healthy gap between ceiling and roof, because metal loves to draw heat
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