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eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:probably concrete mixed badly so porous
you could pressure wash it and try roofing compound which is a rubbery paint from kaleidoscope
or the best rubber sealer is vulchem $800
Ok. Does it take long to dry?
eitech wrote:pugboy wrote:you need to give more infoeitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing.
The entire structure is concrete blocks and painted except for on top. Not sure exactly but you can see the pieces of gravel stones and not smooth. So the finish is not like the side walls. Hence why i said it not sealed
carluva wrote:Call Speciality Chemicals Ltd (SCL).
They have many products that will be able to solve your problems.
I have a few ideas but SCL is better equipped to advise.
Call the retail store in Barataria.
Yeh at nights we usually get around thateitech wrote:VexXx Dogg wrote:90PSI? that's real high from WASA. you sure that measurement correct?
Ok
89. Gauge is correct
gastly369 wrote:Yeh at nights we usually get around thateitech wrote:VexXx Dogg wrote:90PSI? that's real high from WASA. you sure that measurement correct?
Ok
89. Gauge is correct
Over the years we blew out weak spots in the system but everything is more than capable now after some DIY vs initial plumbing of house
VexXx Dogg wrote:jeezan ages, I think I so accustomed to seeing crap pressures here that 90 seems like a dream lol.
Kenjo wrote:VexXx Dogg wrote:jeezan ages, I think I so accustomed to seeing crap pressures here that 90 seems like a dream lol.
People with the high water pressures , I have been noticing that the float in the water tank is getting stuck open in those high pressures from wasa. Is that normal once in a while or should I just replace the float ?
pugboy wrote:what happens is as it is almost closed
the high pressure causes the little trickle to vibrate and it never closes properly
you need to strap a piece of wood to the fill line to steady it
Phone Surgeon wrote:throw a enalapril 10mg in the tank every day to deal with that high pressure issue
Kenjo wrote:pugboy wrote:what happens is as it is almost closed
the high pressure causes the little trickle to vibrate and it never closes properly
you need to strap a piece of wood to the fill line to steady it
Ok yes I’ve turned off the supply so when I decant it down to the normal level I’ll try this . This happens about every 3 months or so . Wasa had some issues in valsayn substation this week but have fixed it yesterday so water came back with even extra force
daring dragoon wrote:how much does builders charge to put up a red block and plaster ?
Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?
carluva wrote:Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?
No issue with that. However you need to ensure that those first floor columns are contiguous with the first floor beams.
In a very basic sense, your structural support for a house should be like this:
Augered piles in foundation whose rebar is interlaced with the foundation mat. (In your construction, there may not be any augered piles, but there will be mats).
Columns on the ground floor which support the first floor decking - the rebar in these columns is interlaced with the previous foundation mat rebar. Note as well that there will be a ground beam whose rebar is also interlaced with the foundation mat and the ground floor columns.
First floor beams and decking - the rebar from these beams is interlaced with the rebar in the previous columns on the ground floor. Remember these beams support the first floor spans.
Columns on first floor - the rebar from these columns is interlaced with the rebar in the previous beams and decking.
Ring beam - this is constructed across the previous columns (and walls once built). Rebar from the previos columns are interlaced with the rebar in the ring beam. Rebar in the ring beam is then left exposed to connect the structural steel from the roof.
As you can see all rebar on load bearing columns and beams in interconnected and transfers all load back to the foundation.
If you simply erect columns on your top decking without having these columns connected to your foundation and then you further build a roof on that later, the structural load and static and dynamic forces (due to wind pressure on your roof) will not transfer back to the foundation. In an earthquake (or even land settlement due to loads) the upper part of your building will be separate from the lower part and can move in a different direction leading to major (and quite possibly irreparable) structural defects and damage. The house structure and load bearing components all need to be interconnected so that loads and forces are sent downward to the foundation where the load is then spread across the earth.
If you know for certain that rebar has ben left exposed for the columns on the top decking AND that this rebar is interconnected to the beams and lower columns all the way back to the foundation, then your plan is perfectly sensible, feasible and ought to be structurally safe. If however you cannot confirm this, or you do not have rebar exposed at the top, then your plan is not safe in the long run and cause significant safety issues and cause you to burn money over time. In a matter of years, you will begin to see structural cracks and defects, guaranteed. In the case of the latter, I will advise you seek the guidance of an engineer who can advise on what can be done to get your first floor going.
Drylock is the best option. 400 from peakseitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Dave wrote:Guys looking for a water tight tubing with flex with 1.25" internal diameter. Looking to bridge a sink drain that has a bend from where the original was located.
bgh wrote:Drylock is the best option. 400 from peakseitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.
As you stated the ring beam accepts the roof via the steel left exposed/upright. My question is how far apart do you need to leave these steel exposed in the ring beam? In other words how far apart should the roof's ibeams be?carluva wrote:Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?
No issue with that. However you need to ensure that those first floor columns are contiguous with the first floor beams.
In a very basic sense, your structural support for a house should be like this:
Augered piles in foundation whose rebar is interlaced with the foundation mat. (In your construction, there may not be any augered piles, but there will be mats).
Columns on the ground floor which support the first floor decking - the rebar in these columns is interlaced with the previous foundation mat rebar. Note as well that there will be a ground beam whose rebar is also interlaced with the foundation mat and the ground floor columns.
First floor beams and decking - the rebar from these beams is interlaced with the rebar in the previous columns on the ground floor. Remember these beams support the first floor spans.
Columns on first floor - the rebar from these columns is interlaced with the rebar in the previous beams and decking.
Ring beam - this is constructed across the previous columns (and walls once built). Rebar from the previos columns are interlaced with the rebar in the ring beam. Rebar in the ring beam is then left exposed to connect the structural steel from the roof.
As you can see all rebar on load bearing columns and beams in interconnected and transfers all load back to the foundation.
If you simply erect columns on your top decking without having these columns connected to your foundation and then you further build a roof on that later, the structural load and static and dynamic forces (due to wind pressure on your roof) will not transfer back to the foundation. In an earthquake (or even land settlement due to loads) the upper part of your building will be separate from the lower part and can move in a different direction leading to major (and quite possibly irreparable) structural defects and damage. The house structure and load bearing components all need to be interconnected so that loads and forces are sent downward to the foundation where the load is then spread across the earth.
If you know for certain that rebar has ben left exposed for the columns on the top decking AND that this rebar is interconnected to the beams and lower columns all the way back to the foundation, then your plan is perfectly sensible, feasible and ought to be structurally safe. If however you cannot confirm this, or you do not have rebar exposed at the top, then your plan is not safe in the long run and cause significant safety issues and cause you to burn money over time. In a matter of years, you will begin to see structural cracks and defects, guaranteed. In the case of the latter, I will advise you seek the guidance of an engineer who can advise on what can be done to get your first floor going.
eitech wrote:bgh wrote:Drylock is the best option. 400 from peakseitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.
Kool. Which location?
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