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De Dragon wrote:eitech wrote:bgh wrote:Drylock is the best option. 400 from peakseitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.
Kool. Which location?
Cocorite most likely
Jerry84 wrote:As you stated the ring beam accepts the roof via the steel left exposed/upright. My question is how far apart do you need to leave these steel exposed in the ring beam? In other words how far apart should the roof's ibeams be?carluva wrote:Musical Doc wrote:My home is 2 storey but I haven't started the upstairs yet, I just blocked around the downstairs and live there. The decking is exposed to the elements a few years now and I'm thinking about putting those roman columns and support the roof on those and then bit by bit block around the exterior wall and then work on the internals after. How feasible would this be?
No issue with that. However you need to ensure that those first floor columns are contiguous with the first floor beams.
In a very basic sense, your structural support for a house should be like this:
Augered piles in foundation whose rebar is interlaced with the foundation mat. (In your construction, there may not be any augered piles, but there will be mats).
Columns on the ground floor which support the first floor decking - the rebar in these columns is interlaced with the previous foundation mat rebar. Note as well that there will be a ground beam whose rebar is also interlaced with the foundation mat and the ground floor columns.
First floor beams and decking - the rebar from these beams is interlaced with the rebar in the previous columns on the ground floor. Remember these beams support the first floor spans.
Columns on first floor - the rebar from these columns is interlaced with the rebar in the previous beams and decking.
Ring beam - this is constructed across the previous columns (and walls once built). Rebar from the previos columns are interlaced with the rebar in the ring beam. Rebar in the ring beam is then left exposed to connect the structural steel from the roof.
As you can see all rebar on load bearing columns and beams in interconnected and transfers all load back to the foundation.
If you simply erect columns on your top decking without having these columns connected to your foundation and then you further build a roof on that later, the structural load and static and dynamic forces (due to wind pressure on your roof) will not transfer back to the foundation. In an earthquake (or even land settlement due to loads) the upper part of your building will be separate from the lower part and can move in a different direction leading to major (and quite possibly irreparable) structural defects and damage. The house structure and load bearing components all need to be interconnected so that loads and forces are sent downward to the foundation where the load is then spread across the earth.
If you know for certain that rebar has ben left exposed for the columns on the top decking AND that this rebar is interconnected to the beams and lower columns all the way back to the foundation, then your plan is perfectly sensible, feasible and ought to be structurally safe. If however you cannot confirm this, or you do not have rebar exposed at the top, then your plan is not safe in the long run and cause significant safety issues and cause you to burn money over time. In a matter of years, you will begin to see structural cracks and defects, guaranteed. In the case of the latter, I will advise you seek the guidance of an engineer who can advise on what can be done to get your first floor going.
Currently doing an extension that's 30 x 28. The roof is a simple gable type. How far apart should the steel be along the 30 ft side?
Cocorite, POS.eitech wrote:bgh wrote:Drylock is the best option. 400 from peakseitech wrote:Hey guys so the top of my tank stand wasnt sealed off properly so that whenever it rains water seeps through and wets up on the inside the room below. What options do I have to seal off the top? Got two tanks so I can do half at a time so I dont risk all my storage water. Good tarpaulin? Some sealant? Concrete is my last option as i may have to modify plumbing. Area is 10’ x15’
Recently redid my tank stand due to the same issue. No leakes since August
Make sure and let it dry a few hours before applying the second coat.
Kool. Which location?
Dave wrote:I need a recommendation on a cost effective house hold water pump that would not be used on a regular basis. My estimate would be a couple hours once a week.
I did a Leo for a very short run years ago and still works in that house presently.
Strugglerzinc wrote:Be cautious of the smaller transfer pumps as their impeller tends to get stuck if left unused with water in the system. Regular use is fine but they don't like to sit.
Musical Doc wrote:Strugglerzinc wrote:Be cautious of the smaller transfer pumps as their impeller tends to get stuck if left unused with water in the system. Regular use is fine but they don't like to sit.
Correct. I use a pentax pm45 once a week to pump from my 1000gal downstairs to my 400 gal upstairs an then from there use gravity flow for the week. I realized the pump starting to stick and I had to knock it to get it going, I increased usage to twice per week but same issue. Now I have to run it every other day so it won't stick and still once in a while I have to knock it for it to start.
alfa wrote:Musical Doc wrote:Strugglerzinc wrote:Be cautious of the smaller transfer pumps as their impeller tends to get stuck if left unused with water in the system. Regular use is fine but they don't like to sit.
Correct. I use a pentax pm45 once a week to pump from my 1000gal downstairs to my 400 gal upstairs an then from there use gravity flow for the week. I realized the pump starting to stick and I had to knock it to get it going, I increased usage to twice per week but same issue. Now I have to run it every other day so it won't stick and still once in a while I have to knock it for it to start.
Could also remove the fan guard at the back and give the shaft a spin to free it up instead of knocking which is not effective for a tightly stuck impeller and could even crack the casing
You would use two coats of an oil-based primer or a shellac-based primer like Zinsser B-I-N first. Then any paint that works with the primer.Hinds wrote:Can anyone recommend a paint to use on knotty pine doors that would prevent the oil in the door from leeching out?
You will likely hear many answers but the concrete should be fully cured before painting.Musical Doc wrote:How long should I wait to rub down and paint a wall after it is plastered?
Interested to know the same as wellMusical Doc wrote:How long should I wait to rub down and paint a wall after it is plastered?
adnj wrote:You will likely hear many answers but the concrete should be fully cured before painting.Musical Doc wrote:How long should I wait to rub down and paint a wall after it is plastered?
About 30 days.
Musical Doc wrote:adnj wrote:You will likely hear many answers but the concrete should be fully cured before painting.Musical Doc wrote:How long should I wait to rub down and paint a wall after it is plastered?
About 30 days.
The person who plastered it told me to wait a week but I wanted to start sooner lol. I guess I should at least give it a couple weeks then
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