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their should be a check valve between tank and pump if it's not their you will experience this problemRedman wrote:ok.
I just put in a new pentax 3/4.
I havent put a check valve...I thought there was one where it supposed to be.
there isnt one
The pump is building pressure then cutting off. 35psi to 50...5 seconds off and on about.
Pressure immediately drops and the cycle starts over.
what could cause this?
Also should I put the check valve on the intake side(never did this before)
thanks
Redman wrote:Well I put one on and the same thing is happening.
Arrow pointing toward the tank
No leaks,no taps on...
Redman wrote:Well I put one on and the same thing is happening.
Arrow pointing toward the tank
No leaks,no taps on...
wheelbarrow wrote:3stagevtec wrote:wheelbarrow wrote:½HP is adequate,
make sure its not one of those small peripheral pumps that the hardwares like to sell as a domestic pump.
What's the problem with those?
Those pumps can't produce the volume of water needed to supply anything more than one outlet. The moment you turn on a second tap the volume of water drops drastically. They are really built for small volume water transfer.
The reason the hardwares sell it is due to the relatively cheaper price.
crazybalhead wrote:Redman wrote:Well I put one on and the same thing is happening.
Arrow pointing toward the tank
No leaks,no taps on...
Pressure tank meng. Push eeen the valve, if water fly out change it. If it have air, use a tyre gauge and check the pressure.
caglowe wrote:Guys not sure what's the problem i'm having, I bought a new Pentax 1/2 HP pump installed it and the pump keeps coming on and off constantly with a clicking sound, yes the pump was installed properly and the cavity was filled with water and the air bled out of the pump before it was started ....when i have a tap open the pump comes on and off constantly and the pressure fluctuates because the pump is coming off and on....I have a professional who suppose to check it out but that's in a week and don't want to stay without a pump so long. My thoughts are the pressure tank needs more air but i don't want to destroy a new pump with trial and error. Any suggestion or have anyone encounter such problem ?
adnj wrote:Modern pumps do not require an additional check valve. Using check valves before and after a pump is an old plumber's trick to hide a faulty pump problem.
Use a check valve to introduce WASA supply pressure (one after your pressure tank and one on the WASA line into a tee) . An unnecessary check valve after the pump pressure sensor can create pressure spikes that can cause pump cycling.
Only use a suction side check valve if the supply water column is BELOW the pump. I doubt that you are pumping from a retention pond, which is one of the few instances when this be required.
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