WTK - Voltage Regulator/Surge Protector

[Parvin]

Can anyone recommend which of the subject matter would be best suited for a LED tv being used as a monitor for a PC setup ?

Thanks

[truemail30]

a voltage regulator is the better option , because they stop the spike in current and also it keeps the voltage stable .basically it does the work of a surge also.

[Parvin]

Thanks man. Any particular model you could recommend?

[westom]

Can anyone recommend which of the subject matter would be best suited for a LED tv being used as a monitor for a PC setup ?

Too much current from the 5 volts on a USB port is a surge. Low voltage on a computer board is sometimes called a surge. A minor increase in AC mains voltage causing lights to slightly dim is sometimes called a surge. None of these cause hardware damage. And none are similar to something called a surge that does appliance damage.

So which anomaly concerns you? The phrase called 'surge protector' defines many products that do not claim to protect from a destructive surge. The power supply already inside that LED tv already contains robust protection which means tiny surges are only considered noise.

If concerned with a surge that can overwhelm protection inside that TV, well, that device must be located adjacent to the device that will absorb those hundreds of thousands of joules. This protection is the earth ground that connects to an AC breaker box, the telephone 'whole house' protector, and cable TV. An effective surge protector is only a connecting device to what absorbs that energy - earth ground. Is located in the breaker box. Works better as distance between protector and LED tv increases and as distance between protector and earth ground decreases.

[Duane 3NE 2NR]

Panamax

do a search in the Home theater thread
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=281327&p=7277971&hilit=panamax#p7277971

[originalbling]

would be best suited for a LED tv being used as a monitor for a PC setup ?

A UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulation? Check the APC BR700 i think or BX650

[Duane 3NE 2NR]

Most UPS only switch to battery power when power goes.
Unless you have a hard drive in your device and need to go through a shutdown sequence, there is no real need for a UPS.
For home theater equipment power regulation and noise filtering are more important.

[Parvin]

Well I guess it will be the UPS since the Mac Mini will be connected

[Duane 3NE 2NR]

Well then get a UPS for the MacMini. But the TV doesn't need one. However the TV will be better with voltage regulation and noise filtering that the Panamax is very good at

[Parvin]

Thanks again. I will definitely look into it. The model you pointed out has a nice design as well.

[westom]

Well I guess it will be the UPS since the Mac Mini will be connected

Why a UPS? He never provided a technical fact that justifies that conclusion. Recommendations without numbers are suspect.

A UPS connects your LED tv directly to AC mains when not in battery backup mode. And takes tens of milliseconds to switch to battery. Meanwhile, a potentially destructive transient does damage in microseconds. Over 300 consecutive transients could do damage before that UPS relay even started to open. Where is the protection?

A millimeters gap in that relay will stop what three miles of sky could not? Facts change once numbers are provided. Or read the UPS's spec numbers. Its hardware protection (hundreds of joules) is near zero. Just large enough so that hearsay can recommend it for hardware protection. UPS provides temporary and 'dirty' power during a blackout. That UPS is neither a protector nor connects to protection.

How to separate hearsay from facts based in science? Hearsay is based in looks and feelings. Useful recommendations also say why with numbers.

[madman_devin]

^^ what ur talking about is a line interactive ups. They are really just a waste of time. What u need is an online ups. I've got a 1500 watt one running all my sensitive stuff in my room.
Check the link below
http://powerquality.eaton.com/mobile/pr ... =4101&cx=3

[westom]

Check the link below
http://powerquality.eaton.com/mobile/pr ... =4101&cx=3

Now show us a number that defines protection.

Are you trying to claim its battery will somehow absorb a surge? Good. Where is the manufacturer spec numbers that makes that claim? Since concepts taught to first semester engineers say something completely different.

If it does protection as you claim, then you can cite the specific manufacturer specification that says so.

[madman_devin]

You seem very concerned with spikes in the ac current, I'm more concerned with low voltage and fluctuating voltages.

Have u ever monitored the voltage from T&TEC ? It ranges from 112-122 daily.

And FYI I do run a voltage regulator before the ups.

[westom]

You seem very concerned with spikes in the ac current, I'm more concerned with low voltage and fluctuating voltages.

Numbers provided are ideal for all electronics and motors. Volt fluctuation (especially low voltages) are potentially harmful to motorized appliances. So the utility keeps voltage within specific limits. Or cuts off power to protect electric motors.

Meanwhile, ideal voltage for any electronics is even when incandescent bulbs dim to 50% intensity. How often are your lights dimming that much?

What does a power supply do? Converts major AC voltage swings into rock solid DC voltages that do not even vary by 0.1 volts. Why would anyone put a regulator on AC when that (and many other functions) is already done better inside electronics (that LED tv)?

[madman_devin]

Haven't used an incandescent bulb in years, everything is LEDs now. As I said before I only use the clean ac power on sensitive stuff in my room.

I've had to replace numerous power supplies on tv's before so I've got my tv on it, Mac mini, ps3, router, 2 ap's and a fibre optic media converter. About 350-400 watts total.

The amount of problems I've had because of our "supplier" I've added protection to everything. Even our ac units won't come on without proper voltage. 5% +/- .

[westom]

As I said before I only use the clean ac power on sensitive stuff in my room.

That belief is common when knowledge is lacking. 'Dirtiest' power seen by appliances is when power comes from a UPS battery. An AC utility demonstrates the output of a so called sine wave UPS. Note AC power direct from mains on the left and power from the UPS battery on the right.
http://www.duke-energy.com/indiana-busi ... tip-03.asp

Urban myths promote a UPS as cleaner power. But reality begs "what is defined by clean?" My so called 120 volt sine wave UPS can even output spikes of up to 270 volts when in battery backup mode. That can be bad for electric motors. And is ideal power for electronics. Electronic circuits that makes tiny surges irrelevant also make 'dirty' power irrelevant. Internatlonal design standards require electronics to withstand voltages much worse without damage.

If AC mains are damaging your TVs, then you are being scammed in the big box retail store.

A most common reason for appliance failure is manufacturing defects. These can occur after years of operation (ie the famous counterfeit electrolyte in electrolytic capacitors). Another is a rare surge (maybe once every seven years) that can overwhelm protection. This anomaly is averted by earthing a 'whole house' protector in the breaker box.

Informed consumers can observe incandescent light bulbs to know AC voltage is rock stable. Ideal voltage to electronics is even when a bulb dims to 50%. All electronics are that robust and already contain superior voltage regulation. UPS has only one purpose: temporary and 'dirty' power during a blackout. Be more concerned for a rare anomaly that occurs maybe once every seven years. That requires a completely different and much less expensive solution.

[madman_devin]

Understood.