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Will attempt and provide feedbackTed_v2 wrote:Oil catch can would solve it. Pass the pcv line thru the catch can and the other side on the intake.
matt1092 wrote:Looking for a td27 4x4 gearbox
did it work better with the catch can?Dj_Bee wrote:ravist, well my van dosent back pressure that much as to burn or throw out so much oil as to aee a difference in oil levels, but i still wanted to be on the safe side with the catch can.
if u clean the injector n clean fumes n then u use back tank fuel n got blue fumes .. i think the tank might need cleaning also .. try getting separate diesel fuel from gas station into a container n run your engine straight from the container n see if u still getting the smoke ..crackindian wrote:I recently swapped a YD25 on my D22 Frontier with a QD32 N/A.
After the swap I noticed the engine was burning blueish smoke with RPM Increase. I tried troubleshooting the issue from bad, valve stem seals, to warn rings, Fuel Filter etc.
1st Step
Thought water was in the Filter, Changed Fuel Filter, same problem.
2nd Step
From an online forum, some folks had mentioned that bad diesel fuel can contribute to blue smoke, the Van was down for an entire year. So I decided to run a Diesel Purge from Liqui Moly, bypassing the Tank Fuel and running primarily from the Canister.
In noticed little to no Blue smoke when the product was used.
3rd step
I drained the Fuel Tank and replaced with fresh Diesel, same issue, Blue smoke.
3rd Step
Changed Piston Rings, Small end Bearing, New Valve stem seals, New Head Gasket, Valve Lapping.
After all that, same problem.
4th Step
Did the Liqui Moly bypass again, same results as step 2
I am lost, is there a big difference between the Liqui Moly and Diesel, so much that it burns cleaner?
Help is appreciated.
Supra GT-FOUR wrote:Rear engine seal most likely.
supernedd wrote:yea could be the engine seal . my advice ..if u replace . install new clutch one time .. cause that is as lot of work n it easier to install with engine out
better hope is not head cracking issuescrackindian wrote:Did all that, same thing. Puzzled. The engine is burning oil though, so have to take apart to see from where. Will update
well boi i dont have a nav . i got a mazda .. n i know all u van got some speed ..lol .. to be honest. i did a engine change n did a clutch replace one time .. but my mileage was high n clutch still had life. why i decided to change it ..when i saw videos on how to change a clutch ..seems like a lot of work.. lol ..when the van assembled...so my theory is .. it done open..might as well..is up too u ..when they scrap down for seal ..let them check d clutch life...or even watch some videos on how to change seal or clutch n u will get what i am sayingshade360 wrote:Supra GT-FOUR wrote:Rear engine seal most likely.supernedd wrote:yea could be the engine seal . my advice ..if u replace . install new clutch one time .. cause that is as lot of work n it easier to install with engine out
Thanks guys. Is it in anyway unusual that the NAV is doing 53k and the seal is gone or is that within "acceptable"?
Based on the current mileage, should I still consider replacing the clutch?
What might be a rough estimate to have the seal replaced?
Thanks
If the van was sitting for a while and you now start back using it...I would say No. If however you were using it constantly and it started leaking...I would say yes. It could also be just overfill in the engine blowing past the seal.shade360 wrote:Supra GT-FOUR wrote:Rear engine seal most likely.supernedd wrote:yea could be the engine seal . my advice ..if u replace . install new clutch one time .. cause that is as lot of work n it easier to install with engine out
Thanks guys. Is it in anyway unusual that the NAV is doing 53k and the seal is gone or is that within "acceptable"?
Based on the current mileage, should I still consider replacing the clutch?
What might be a rough estimate to have the seal replaced?
Thanks
kamakazi wrote:If the van was sitting for a while and you now start back using it...I would say No. If however you were using it constantly and it started leaking...I would say yes. It could also be just overfill in the engine blowing past the seal.shade360 wrote:Supra GT-FOUR wrote:Rear engine seal most likely.supernedd wrote:yea could be the engine seal . my advice ..if u replace . install new clutch one time .. cause that is as lot of work n it easier to install with engine out
Thanks guys. Is it in anyway unusual that the NAV is doing 53k and the seal is gone or is that within "acceptable"?
Based on the current mileage, should I still consider replacing the clutch?
What might be a rough estimate to have the seal replaced?
Thanks
Clutch replacement depends on for hard you run it.
i think a coworker get that overfill problem with his new np300 .. so i heard . like he service his self n do sheitshade360 wrote:kamakazi wrote:If the van was sitting for a while and you now start back using it...I would say No. If however you were using it constantly and it started leaking...I would say yes. It could also be just overfill in the engine blowing past the seal.shade360 wrote:Supra GT-FOUR wrote:Rear engine seal most likely.supernedd wrote:yea could be the engine seal . my advice ..if u replace . install new clutch one time .. cause that is as lot of work n it easier to install with engine out
Thanks guys. Is it in anyway unusual that the NAV is doing 53k and the seal is gone or is that within "acceptable"?
Based on the current mileage, should I still consider replacing the clutch?
What might be a rough estimate to have the seal replaced?
Thanks
Clutch replacement depends on for hard you run it.
Oh boy, thanks a mil guys, k here goes...
1) The engine was definately overfilled, i would say a little over the second bump in the dipstick, i noticed it when the leak became apparent on the floor, by this time the underside had gotten properly soaked. I went ahead and changed the oil and filter, since it was close to due. Used Valvoline 15-40 Extreme and a genuine filter, filled to the 3/4 mark between the 2 holes and cleaned the underside thorougly, presently monitoring it. Its only been a couple days since the oil change, but from 3 drops on floor, I'm now seeing one either on the floor or just clinging on the underside, when I go for a drive.
2) Since i'm not working these days, the van isn't being used daily as before, I would venture to say 3 times a week on average and mostly short runs, no more that 10mins or so.
3) The van was not purchased from NM, its Thai built and when i referenced the flywheel using the VIN number, i'm getting this number 12310-EB30C, which say's its a Single Mass Flywheel. so i'm not sure.
Not a very good week to say the least!
Guys if possible, what will i be looking at in terms of cost, just a very rough estimate of course, parts & labour and is there someone you guys trust that i can speak to regading the repair?
Thanks again!
yea cause changing a clutch is a lot of work . so i could understand d pricing .if he do it showroom . well then u watching double thatTed_v2 wrote:that is money fadda, noting less than 1500 labour.
shade360 wrote:Guys, do your local user manual state this under the recommended fluids and lubricants section or does it just have the API grade listed (as in Page 1 of this thread)?
Diesel engine oil :
API grade CF-4, JAS0 DH-1
Reason I'm asking, according to the JASO Engine Oil Standards, the oil I'm running now is rated as a DH-2 oil and DH-2 should only be used when one or more of the following criteria's are met.
1) Vehicle has a Diesel Particulate Filter (which I do not have)
2) Fuel should be Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (which we do not have, I think)
DH-2.jpg
The Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme I'm using presently and the Amsoil Signature Series I had in before were all DH-2
The only oils I could find that met the exact specifications in the manual, by meeting both standards are:
1) Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 (Not ESP)
2) Amsoil SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Oil
3) Shell Rimula R4 X (no other variant of R4)
4) Shell Rimula R6 M (no other variant of R6)
The DH-1 rated oils comprise a higher detergency / sulfated ash content, with a TBN value of 12 and above typically.
Based on how the manual is written, both standards (API & JASO) are to be met, not either/or.
Either/Or scenarios are explicitly stated as such, where it's applicable (Coolant, Transmission, Transfer Case, Differential and Power Steering)
Penny for your thoughts?
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