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A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

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A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » May 23rd, 2010, 10:16 pm

A31 CEFIRO TECH PAGE

Feel free to add any info you think may be beneficial to anyone with a Ceffy.... :D

Also don't be afraid to ask for any information that you need. That's what this page is for: to collate any and all information regarding our favored machines as well as the various engine we tend to stuff under our bonnets. Mods, maintenance, advice, locating parts..... whatever you have to offer .....all info and requests are welcome.

I'm also hoping that this becomes the official page on Tuner for the soon to be established A31 Cefiro Club (fingers crossed) and all it's potential members.


INDEX:

Page 1
- Throttle Coolant Bypass
- Nissan ECU Identification
- Auto/ Manual Crossmember Tip
- A31 Cefiro Parts and Substitutes List
- RB Recirculating BOV Mod
- Big Brake Upgrade Parts List etc.
- NGK Spark Plug Guide
- Clunks, Whines and Howls: Diagnosing Differential and Driveline Noises
- Steering Rack Diagram
- Engine and Workshop Manuals
- A31 Alternative Suspension Info
Last edited by alleykat2020 on July 13th, 2010, 9:47 am, edited 7 times in total.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » May 23rd, 2010, 10:24 pm

THROTTLE COOLANT BYPASS (credit goes to psi @ skylinesaustralia.com)

This is a great little mod to lower the intake manifold air temp from around 77 degrees to somewhere near 45 degrees. Great for making more throttle responce and horsepower! It bypasses the coolant in the throttle body.

You will need to find the throttle heater hose, which is mounted on the bottom of the throttle as part of the throttle. It is added by factory for 2 main reasons.
1: Because the throttle is heated to the same temp all the time, the air going through it is also raised which makes tuning the factory computer so much less complicated, the air is always about the same temp.

2: Due to the raised temp, the situation of thottle 'iceing' is removed. Throttle 'iceing' is where you drive though some moist cold air and the throttle actually gets little ice crystals on it and freezes it in place. When you go to lift off for a corner the throttle wont come back.. VERY SCARY! This sometimes happens in air temps below about 5deg. If this happens and the throttle wont come back, just push the throttle harder to brake the ice seal and then lift off, or turn the engine off..

The mod: built into the bottom of the throttle aspart of the casting is a little tube. you need to bypass this tube... simple! 2 easy ways to do this,

1: remove the 2 hoses from the bottom of the throttle, 1 from the 'do not open' bleed screw on the front of the intake manifold and then the other that goes back down the back of the engine to the firewall.. u will need to use 2 new hose clamps and about 45cm of hose. run the new hose from the bleed screw UNDER the throttle and onto the the back join on the fire wall.. or

2: just cut a peice of metal tube (copper, steel or alloy) a smidge longer than the throttle bodies hose barbs and use the standard hoses. just insert the new metal tube under the throttle and join it all up.

NOT FINISHED YET, now u have to get the air out of the system, that is what the 'do not open' screw is for. This screw is the highest point in the engine that the air will get to, so any time u disconnect ANY part of the cooling or heating system, you MUST bleed the air out. you will need a 10mm spanner. Start the cold engine and let it idle.

as it warms up, undo the 'do not open' screw a few turns(but not all the way out!). as the engine gets hotter u should see some bubbling come up though the thread, this is good.. u will loose a very small amout of coolant. when the bubbling has stopped, thighten the screw back up. Repeat these steps 2 or 3 more times when u start the cold engine(generally over a week of driving to work or whatever).

It is vital ALL the air is removed from the system!

This little mod is way less than 1 hour to do even if you take your time and tripple check everything!

The end result is an intake manifold that you can actually touch after a long cruise.. this means it goes harder. It looks totally factory, does a great job and gives more thottle feel.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » May 23rd, 2010, 10:26 pm

NISSAN ECU Identification Numbers


ECU Indentification


A31 MEC-R282A
A31 RB20DE AT FR 23710-72L00 MEC-R100 ?? 27C128 27C128
A31 RB20DET AT FR 23710-73L10 MEC-R103 ?? 27C128 27C128
A31 RB20DET MT 4W 23710-86L00 MEC-R204 ?? 27C256 27C256
A31 23710-0A511 MEC-R123 ?? 27C128 27C128
A31 RB20DET AT FR 23710-5L210 MEC-R330 ?? 27C256 27C256
A31 RB20DET AT FR 23710-73L70 MEC-R203 B ?? 27C256 27C256
A31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-0A502 MEC-R222 ?? 27C256 27C256
A31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-73L00 MEC-R102 ?? 27C128 27C128
A31 RB20E AT FR 23710-71L10 L170CDA5 ?? 27C256 27C256

C32 RB20DET AT FR 23710-94L10 MEC-R113 ?? 27C128 27C128
C32 RB20DET FR 23710-45L71 MEC-R51 ?? 27C128 27C128
C32 VG20ET AT FR 23710-43L13 MEC-542R *2 ?? 27C128 27C128
C32 VG20ET AT FR 23710-43L72 MEC-V52R ?? 27C128 27C128
C33 RB20DE AT FD 23710-72L70 MEC-R201 ?? 27C256 27C256
C33 RB20DE AT FR 23710-5L110 MEC-R310 ?? 27C256 27C256
C33 RB20DET AT FR 23710-73L70 MEC-R203 ?? 27C256 27C256
C34 RB20DE 5AT FR 23710-74T01 ?? H8/534
C34 RB25DE 5AT FR 23710-75T02 ?? H8/534 H8

DR30 FJ20ET MT FR 23710-R2200 MEC-250Y ?? 27C64 27C64
DR30 FJ20ET MT FR 23710-R2205 2521 ?? 27C64 27C64
HR30 L20ET MT FR 23710-15S00 A18-000 ?? 27C64 27C64

HR31 RB20DET AT FR 23710-59S13 MEC-R17 ?? 27C128 27C128
HR31 RB20DET MT FR 23710- MEC-R42 ?? 27C128 27C128
HR31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-59S03 MEC-R16 ?? 27C128 27C128
HR31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-59S04 MEC-R24A ?? 27C128 27C128

R30 FJ20E MT FR 23710-R2000 A18-000 ?? 27C64 27C64
R30 FJ20E MT FR 23710-R2200 ?? 27C64 27C64
R30 FJ20ET MT FR 23710-2210 ?? 8K 8K
R30 FJ20ET MT FR 23710-2210 ?? 8K 8K
R30 FJ20ET MT FR 23710-R2202 052 ?? 8K 8K
R30 FJ20ET MT FR 23710-R2203 2510 ?? 8K 8K
R30 L20ET MT FR 23710-15S00 A18-000 ?? 27C64 27C64
R30 L20ET MT FR 23710-15S01 J136BDM1 ?? 8K 8K

R31 GTS-R RB20DET MT FR 23710-70S01 MEC-R46 27C128
R31 1988 RB20DE 23710-72L10 MEC R-101 (#63)
R31 RB20DE AT FR 23710-58S13 MEC-R23A 27C128
R31 RB20DE MT FR 23710-58S03 MEC-R22 27C128
R31 RB20DET AT FR 23710-80S11 MEC-R43 27C128
R31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-59S05 MEC-R26 27C128
R31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-79S02 MEC-R70R 27C128
R31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-80S02 MEC-R47 27C128
R31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-80S03 MEC-R72 27C128
R31 RB20E AT FR 23710-91S11 J170BDA3 27C128
R31 RB20E 23710-91L60?? A11-000 L14?? (#AY)
R31 RB20ET MT FR 23710-76S00 J171BDM3 27C128
27310-73L60 Mec-R202 B0 X05 (#76)

R32-GTE RB20E Auto FR 23710-02U10 A11-000J01 (preFL, no ABS no HICAS)
R32-GTR RB26DETT Manual 4W 23710-05U02 MEC-R128 27C256
R32-GTR RB26DETT Manual 4W 23710-05U60 MEC-R280 27C256
R32-GTS RB20DE 23710-01U11 MEC-R125 1 ox05 (#21)
R32-GTS RB20DE Manual 23710-10U00 MEC-R210 B 2701 (#BE)
R32-GTS RB20DE Auto 23710-10U11 MEC-R217 3415 (#BF)
R32-GTS RB20DE Manual MT 23710-01U00 MEC-R104 27C256
R32-GTS RB20DE Auto FR 23710-01U11 MEC-R125 (preFLno ABS no HICAS)
R32-GTS25 RB25DE Manual FR 23710-08U01 MEC-R232 27C256
R32-GTS25 RB25DE Auto FR 23710-08U11 MEC-R233 (facelift, no ABS no HICAS)
R32-GTS4 RB20DET Auto 4W 23710-04U70 MEC-R117 27C256
R32-GTS4 RB20DET Manual 4W 23710-04U60 MEC-R116 27C256
R32-GTSt RB20DET 23710-01U00 MEC-R120 (#BE)
R32-GTSt RB20DET 23710-0A900 MEC-R235 27C256
R32-GTSt RB20DET Auto FR 23710-04U11 MEC-R109 27C256
R32-GTSt RB20DET Auto FR 23710-04U12 MEC-R127 27C256 (#23)
R32-GTSt RB20DET Auto FR 23710-11U10 MEC-R213 B 3510 (#BJ)
R32-GTSt RB20DET Manual FR 23710-04U00 MEC-R106 27C256
R32-GTSt RB20DET Manual FR 23710-04U01 MEC-R126 27C256 (#22)
R32-GtSt RB20DET Manual M FR 23710-04U02 MEC-R132 27C256
R32-GtS RB20DE Manual M FR 23710-11U00 MEC-R212 B 3603 (#BH)
R32-GtS RB20DE Manual M FR 23710-11U10 MEC-RZ17 B 1Z17 (#BJ) (ASB)
R32 Type-M Manual 2371M 04U02 MEC-R132R 3613


R33 GTS RB20DE?? Auto FR 23710-15U10 27C256
R33 GTS25 RB25DE Auto FR 23710-17U11 MEC-R511 H8 534
R33 GTS25 RB25DE Manual FR 23710-17U00 H8/534
R33 GTS25 RB25DE AUTO 2371M-17U15 MEC-R515R (9903)
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Auto 4WD 23710-21U70 MEC-R630 H8 534
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Auto 2WD 23710-08U11 MEC-R233 1X25 (#BB)
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 1 Manual FR 23710-21U00 MEC-R520B H8 534
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 1 Auto 23710-21U11 MEC-R531 A1 3Y24 (#TK)
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 2 Auto? 23710-21U11 MEC-R531 A1 3904
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 2 Auto? 23710-21U11 MEC-R531 A1 3X08 (#TK)
R33 GTS25 RB25DE Series 2 Manual 4WD 23710-21U60 MEC-R620 A3 5830 (#CC)
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 2 Manual RWD 23710 13U01 MEC-R721 A1 6913
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 2 Manual RWD 23710 13U01 MEC-R721 A1 7207 (#G8)
R33 GTS25t RB25DET Auto RWD 23710 13U10 (#G9)
R33 GTR V-Spec RB26DETT 23710 24U01 MEC-R581 A1 8625

RS13 180SX CA18DET AT FR 23710-36F15 MEC-D017 27C128 27C128
RS13 180SX CA18DET MT FR 23710-36F05 MEC-D016 ?? 27C128 27C128

S12 CA18DET AT FR 23710-31F10 G121BDA2 ?? 27C128 27C128
S12 CA18DET MT FR 23710-30F01 MEC-451 ?? 27C128 27C128
S12 CA18ET MT FR 23710-05F04 ?? 27C64 27C64
S12 CA18ET MT FR 23710-31F00 G121BDM2 ?? 27C128 27C128
S12 FJ20E FR 23710-R2011 ?? 8K 8K
S13 180SX SR20DET MT SR 23710-50F05 K170SDM3 ?????? 27C256 M6M7256
S13 CA18DE AT FR 23710-35F11 MEC-D014 ?? 27C128 27C128
S13 CA18DE MT FR 23710-35F00 MEC-D001 ?? 27C128 27C128
S13 CA18DET AT FR 23710-36F11 MEC-D015 27C128 27C128
S13 CA18DET MT FR 23710-36F00 MEC-D003 ?? 27C128 27C128
S13 SR20DE AT FR 23710-52F10 K078PDA7 ?????? 27C256 M5M7256
S13 SR20DE MT FR 23710-52F00 K078PDM7 ?????? 27C256 M5M7256
S13 SR20DET AT FR 23710-50F10 K078ODA8 ?????? 27C256 M5M7256
S13 SR20DET MT FR 23710-50F00 K078ODM8 ?????? 27C256 M5M7256
S14 SR20DE MT FR 23710-65F00 ??????? 27C256 37791E
S14 SR20DET AT FR 23710-69F10 K134XDA8 ??????? 27C256 M5M7512
S14 SR20DET MT FR 23710-69F00 ??????? 27C256 M5M7256
SR18DE AT FF 23710-58Y12 S069PDA1 ?? 27C256 27C256
SR18DE MT FF 23710-58Y01 S069PDM9 ?? 27C256 27C256
SR20DE MT FF 23710-78N00 W077HDM5 ?????? 27C256 27C256
SR20DET 23710-95N11 W184LXDZ5 ?????? 27C256 M6M7256
Y30 VG30ET AT FR 23710-V7514 MEC-V13 ?? 27C128 27C128
Y30 VG30ET AT FR 23710-V7516 MEC-V19R ?? 27C128 27C128
Y31 VG30DET AT FR 23710-45V71 MEC-E09 ?? 27C128 27C128
Y31 VG30DET AT FR 23710-45V72 MEC-E14 ?? 27C128 27C128
Y31 VG30DET AT FR 23710-71V70 MEC-E102 ?? 27C256 27C256
Y31 VG30DET AT FR 23710-71V72 MEC-E108 ?? 27C256 27C256
Y31 VG30E AT FR 23710-64V11 MEC-V106 ?? 27C256 27C256
Y32 VG30DE AT FR 23710-OP510 MEC-E207 ?? 27C256 27C256
Y32 VH41DE AT FR 23710-1P122 8XD1112J ?? 27C256 27C256
Z31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-20P60 MEC-R60C ?? 27C128 27C128
Z31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-20P61 MEC-R62 ?? 27C128 27C128
Z31 VG20ET AT FR 23710-12P11 20A3 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 VG20ET AT FR 23710-12P11 20A4 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 VG20ET MT FR 23710-12P01 20M3 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 VG20ET MT FR 23710-12P01 20M4 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 VG30DE MT FR 23710-22P01 MEC-E12 ?? 27C128 27C128
Z31 VG30ET AT FR 23710-15P10 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 VG30ET AT FR 23710-22P72 M156DDA4 ?? 27C128 27C128
Z31 VG30ET AT FR 23710-V5312 V5312-1 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 VG30ET MT FR 23710-15P00 4302 ?? 8K 8K
Z31 RB20DET MT FR 23710-20P01 MEC-R15E ?? 27C128 27C128
Z32 VG30DE AT FR 23710-40P11 M157BDA4 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DE MT FR 23710-40P00 M157BDM3 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DE MT FR 23710-40P01 8AB9119J ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT AT FR 23710-41P12 M105ADA5 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT AT FR 23710-41P13 M105ADA6 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT AT FR 23710-48P76
Z32 VG30DETT MT FR 23710-41P00 M105ADM4 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT MT FR 23710-41P01 M105ADM5 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT MT FR 23710-41P03 M105ADM6 ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT MT FR 23710-41P04 8AB9121J ?? 27C256 27C256
Z32 VG30DETT MT FR 23710-51P60 6AK8915J1 ??????? 27C256 M5M


If i may draw some conclusions:
"23710-xxxyz"
Where 23710 appears to be the generic partnumber for "ECU"
"xxx" is the engine/chassis combo code.
GTRs are 05U
RB25 are 08U
RB2oDE are 01U
RB20DET are O4U

"y" is gearbox
0 = manual RWD
1 = auto RWD
6= manual 4WD
7= auto 4WD.

"z" is a mystery......
Last edited by alleykat2020 on June 24th, 2010, 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Conrad » May 23rd, 2010, 11:08 pm

When doing a manual conversion using a RB20 gearbox a manual gearbox bracket from a S13-S15 should be used and not a R32/A31 manual crossmember.

My Silvia bracket has an "A" stamped on it if that's any help.

Without the proper gearbox crossmember you may find that your "center bearing" or "driveshaft bushing" bursts more often.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Conrad » May 23rd, 2010, 11:10 pm


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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » May 23rd, 2010, 11:29 pm

RB Recirculating BOV Mod

This mod allows for boost to come in at a slightly lower RPM as well as a rock solid hold on max boost. I did this a few days after turbo-charging my Cefiro and haven't had any problems nor regretted it since.

Unbolt your stock BOV and remove from the intake flange. You should see a small hole next to the big hole on the face of the BOV? Block it !!! Put several layers of tape over it, put automotive mounting tape over it, something... It's basically a factory leak aka quick release holey thingy or sumthin' or other.... :D Point is, it leaks when the car goes into boost to allow for a less sudden transmission from vacuum to boost as well as facilitate a quicker release of manifold pressure at low boost (methinks).. It's also noisy as hell !!!!

Anywho, once you're done, bolt the shiznit back on and go for a test drive. You'll notice that the car goes into boost a few hundred RPM sooner. You'll also notice that boost comes on more suddenly, as well as holds rock steady a max-boost.

It also eliminates that loud leaking noise from your engine bay (well in my engine bay at least :D)

Not bad results for 10 minutes work.

NB Due to blocking said hole, you may get about a second or so of compressor surge @ low boost under load when you lift off the throttle. Maybe..... :D
Last edited by alleykat2020 on June 25th, 2010, 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Conrad » May 23rd, 2010, 11:43 pm

Conversion parts necessary for big brakes up front.


5 stud rotor with matching caliper (off of any of the following Nissan - Z32/S14/S15/R32/R33) NB: R34 uses 2 larger bolts to connect the caliper to the knuckle and wouldn't fit without some modification.

Listed in order of stock Nissan 4 pot calipers from most desired to least:
1)BCNR33 Brembo, BNR32 V-Spec Brembo
2)BNR32 (similar to R33 GTS-T but slightly larger rotors that are cross-drilled in stock form)
2)R33 GTS-T
3)R32/Z32 (caliper made of aluminium and therefore lighter = less un-sprung weight)
4)S14/S15 (caliper made of heavy stuff)


If remaining with the stock 4 stud hubs you can carry the rotors to be re-drilled to the 4x114.3 bolt pattern and they'll bolt up fine.

If converting to 5 stud you'd need to locate either S14/S15/C35 spindles OR purchase 5 stud hubs and get them pressed into your spindle.
If using the S14/S15/C35 hubs be warned that the stock bolts that connect the knuckle to the shock would be slightly smaller than the hole in the knuckle. This can be compensated for by putting "sleeves" in the knuckle before putting the bolt through. ALSO if using one of the mentioned spindles you'd have to change the balljoint to suit the knuckle as the stock A31 balljoint won't fit properly. Depending on the size of rotor used you may have to bash the dust shield a bit to prevent contact.

Upgrade the brake master cylinder (BMC) to suit your bigger calipers or else you'd realise the pedal travels further before the car stops properly. It's best to source the brake master cylinder for the vehicle that the calipers came off of.
NOTE: ABS cars use 2 line BMCs whereas non-ABS cars use 3 line BMCs. A minimum of 15/16 or BM48 is recommended (you'd see the engravings on the side of BMC) for 4 pot calipers.

The stock lines would fit just fine in either of the calipers mentioned, simply add a washer to the banjo as it's a little longer and won't fit properly otherwise.


NOTE:
For all intent and purposes the A31 uses the same suspension as the S13 throughout, the only difference being
1) Tension rod bracket which is A31 specific AND
2) A31 uses a secondary braking system for the e-brake (drums in the rear) like the Z32 300ZX & R32-4 Skyline and not the calipers like the S13.

If looking for pics how to do a big brake conversion online simply look for "S13 big brake conversion" as the S13 was sold to many markets worldwide.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Conrad » May 23rd, 2010, 11:56 pm

Recommended NGK plugs for:

RB20E
BCPR6ES-11 (Copper)
BCPR6EIX-11 (Iridium)

RB20DE
PFR6A-11 (Platinum)
BCPR6EIX-11 (Iridium)

RB20DET
PFR6A-11 (Platinum)
BCPR6EIX-11 (Iridium)

RB25DE
PFR6G-11 (Platinum)
BKR6EIX-11 (Iridium)

RB25DET
PFR6G-11 (Platinum)
BKR6EIX-11 (Iridium)


If still running stock coil-packs you may experience "breaking up" or a flat spot around 5,000 rpm, it is recommended to use a gap of 0.8 mm as coil packs tend to lose their efficiency with age. NB: This is on stock boost. With increased boost/airflow it is recommended to use a colder plug.

BTW, it's not recommended to re-gap Platinum or Iridium plugs.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » June 2nd, 2010, 9:47 am

Clunks, Whines, and Howls: Diagnosing Differential and Driveline Noises (Credit to Summit Racing)

A clunk, whine, or howl can signal a worn-out pinion gear, bad bearings, or a faulty gear installation. Sometimes, the noise is not differential-related, but is caused by other driveline or axle components. This guide will help you match up the noise you’re hearing with the differential or axle component making it, or at least get you in the ballpark.


Noise: Howl while decelerating (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Loose pinion bearing preload

Noise: Howl with whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn rear pinion bearing or worn gear set

Noise: Howl without whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling while accelerating over a small speed range (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling after gear set installation
Cause: Faulty gears or improper installation

Noise: Low-pitch rumble at all speeds over 20 miles per hour
Cause: Worn carrier bearings

Noise: Whirring during acceleration/deceleration at about 10 miles per hour
Cause: Worn pinion bearings

Noise: Banging or clunking while making a turn, backing up, or rapid deceleration (like on a freeway off-ramp). Noise gets worse in warmer weather
Cause: Posi chatter due to improper lubrication; worn clutches or spider gears; improper assembly

Noise: Banging, crunching, or popping while making a turn. Noise not affected by temperature
Cause: Badly worn or broken spider gears

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 2-3 feet during acceleration and deceleration
Cause: Damaged or broken pinion gear tooth or teeth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 2-3 feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not both
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on pinion gear tooth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 8 feet during acceleration and deceleration
Cause: Damaged or broken ring gear tooth or teeth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 8 feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not both
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on ring gear tooth

Noise: Clicking while decelerating from 20 miles per hour to a complete stop
Cause:Worn carrier case-side gear bores

Noise: Rumble or clicking that gets worse during hard turns
Cause: Bad wheel bearings

Noise: Driveline squeaking or grinding at any speed
Cause: Worn or damaged U-joints

Noise:Clunking when depressing the throttle pedal (takeoff)
Cause: Worn U-joints; worn spider gears; worn axle splines; excessive gear backlash; loose yoke splines; worn slip yoke splines

Noise: Clunk immediately after taking off from a stop
Cause: Worn slip yoke splines

Noise: Steady vibration that increases with speed
Cause: Worn U-joint or out-of-balance driveshaft

Noise: Cyclic vibration that varies in intensity. Intensity increases at a specific speed range, worsens during deceleration
Cause: Pinion angle too low (not parallel with front yoke on driveshaft)

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Conrad » June 17th, 2010, 8:24 am

Steering Rack Diagram with part numbers (as taken off of Nissan FAST).

Image

Stock system uses Dexron II ATF (subsequent Dexron ratings are backward compatible ;) ) and not the regular power steering fluid. Use of the incorrect fluid would lead to damaged seals.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » June 25th, 2010, 2:42 pm


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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Jon_One » July 11th, 2010, 12:33 pm

i have heard about using skyline an s13-s15 front suspension and back suspension with brakes ... they suppose to bolt right up apparantley any more info?

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Conrad » July 11th, 2010, 1:37 pm

THE FRONT

EVERYTHING S13 suspension up front including shocks.

Note unless you have an AWD A31 only A31/C33/S13 shock assembly would fit up front, if you have an AWD you'd have to use R32 GTS-4 or possibly R32 GTR. The S13 uses lower spring rates and shorter shocks up front so expect a drop with the heavier A31/C33.

Essentially S14 and S15 are the same.

You can use S14/S15 lca up front as well but they're a lil longer = more negative camber.
Adjustable tension rods from the S14/S15 may fit, you could do your research on those.
The shock assembly from the S14/S15 is longer and I'm not even sure if the top can fit. Also, the holes in the shock base that the bolts pass through into the knuckle are larger.
You can use S14/S15 knuckles for a 5 stud conversion but the balljoints taper different so you'll have to press the S14/S15 balljoints into the LCA.



THE REAR
S13/R32 GTS(T) shocks.

The complete rear cradle/arms are essentially the same as the R32 GTS(T)/S13 however Silvias use the caliper for the handbrakes and not independent drum brakes like the Skylines or A31. Note the R32 GTR uses a different cradle/knuckle and 2 way mechanical diff. The GTR uses different shocks in the rear to match the knuckle.

Bear in mind that a non-HICAS R32/S13/A31/C33 would use toe arms whereas a HICAS car would use the rack and tie-rods to adjust toe.

If swapping diffs be aware that there are different half-shafts (the first "short" piece of axle that comes of the differential housing). There are the 2x3, 5x1 and 6x1 combination i.e. 3 sets of 2 bolts side by side or 5 individual 1 bolt or as in the case of the GTR 6 individual bolts.

A R33 differential can be put into a R32/S13/A31/C33 cradle simply by swapping on the rear cover that bolts to the cradle from the R32/S13/A31/C33.

A R33/S14 cradle isn't a direct fit into an A31 regardless of what anyone tells you, the main bolts a slightly off, however if you're stubborn I've been told you can force it in!

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby Jon_One » July 11th, 2010, 1:42 pm

thanks

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby alleykat2020 » September 13th, 2010, 3:54 pm

Come. Allyuh post someting nuh. :D

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby invisible_shadow » May 22nd, 2011, 6:24 pm

Ok so i have an rb20e in my A31. Its burning oil. Any advise on what i should do? Was thinking about changing the engine and putting a rb20det, but was not sure what conversions i would have to do 1st. Also, how do i stop the oil from burning? Im using Magnatec synthetic oil SAE 20W-50. Any suggestions on what i should do with the engine?

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby GHOSTRYDER » May 22nd, 2011, 8:02 pm

invisible_shadow wrote:Ok so i have an rb20e in my A31. Its burning oil. Any advise on what i should do? Was thinking about changing the engine and putting a rb20det, but was not sure what conversions i would have to do 1st. Also, how do i stop the oil from burning? Im using Magnatec synthetic oil SAE 20W-50. Any suggestions on what i should do with the engine?


You could repair it if its just oil its burning but look at the cost factor involved the age of the present engine and the cost of an engine in the bamboo rb20 or 25 may be the better way to go as for the conversion its not that complicated old engine out new engine in i saw they did some kind of bracket for my tranny and rewire the engine into your car

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby invisible_shadow » May 22nd, 2011, 8:40 pm

So ur saying to put in the rb20det, with little mods, it would line up with my tranny and it will work out better in the longrun?... So what price range am i looking at? engine, harness, brain and to put it into d car...?

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby GHOSTRYDER » May 23rd, 2011, 5:54 am

i duno if the old tranny will line up

but complete rb engine non turbo you will get from 5k upwards

Gearbox is more

If you like speed go turbo one time if you have the $$$$ to put out if not the regular ones does work well

Besides so much bad road here only place to drive yur car hard is the highway and jusdt now they go have police :(

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby turbosingh » May 23rd, 2011, 6:35 am

invisible_shadow wrote:So ur saying to put in the rb20det, with little mods, it would line up with my tranny and it will work out better in the longrun?... So what price range am i looking at? engine, harness, brain and to put it into d car...?


Boss save your money an go an buy an good engine an tranny it will cost you less in the long run.Even though the Rb20det will line up with the stock tranny but would not last long!Or you could buy a head an block as slam it back using your harness an brain.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby invisible_shadow » May 23rd, 2011, 7:28 am

ok so another option is head and block. what price i lookin @ for that? installed to?...

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby GHOSTRYDER » May 23rd, 2011, 10:10 am

I figure the best thing is once you have enough funds buy a engine from the bamboo my non turbo rb cost me 4500 a year ago with a tranny and full harness

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby invisible_shadow » May 23rd, 2011, 11:47 am

So rb20det n tranny shouldnt cost more than 6000? How much would someone charge me to put it in?...

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby turbosingh » May 23rd, 2011, 11:49 am

My padna bought a head an block in Penal he paid $1400

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby GHOSTRYDER » May 23rd, 2011, 5:06 pm

My mechanic in couva charged me 1200 to install and electrician cost was 1200 plus little small thing you may have to buy like engine oil ,tranny oil and belts etc.....

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby turbosingh » May 24th, 2011, 6:27 am

GHOSTRYDER wrote:My mechanic in couva charged me 1200 to install and electrician cost was 1200 plus little small thing you may have to buy like engine oil ,tranny oil and belts etc.....


Who is your Mechanic?

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby invisible_shadow » May 24th, 2011, 11:38 am

Yeah. Who's ur mechanic? n where exactly is he located?...

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby GHOSTRYDER » May 24th, 2011, 5:18 pm

Not Sherman up in couva but ive heard they are good

Its a guy down in perseverance name is Navin

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby rez » May 24th, 2011, 7:56 pm

any one know where i could get my management tune for best price . It is a microtec lt8 by the way.

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Re: A31 Cefiro Tech Thread

Postby invisible_shadow » May 24th, 2011, 8:32 pm

ok. so im obviously new to this... what is management?... and why does it need to be tuned?

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