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MG Man wrote:This will be too basic for most tuners, but given some of the questions asked on this forum, I am sure some ppl will find it useful
Brake pad replacement is pretty simple and straightforward: pull old pads out, reset caliper pistons, put new pads in.......
First, some basics
Safety: do not take safety for granted. Always use a proper jack and axlestands if available. I did not have my trolley jack, so I used the car's scissors jack (not the best option), and put a tyre under the rocker panel.....also, the opposite back wheel was chocked and handbrakes applied.
Tools: always ensure you have all the tools available. You do not want to get stuck and have to leave the car unfinished while u look to borrow / buy tools....for this job u need the basics, spanners, pliers, plus a good g-clamp will make your life easier
Secure back of car
Notice low level of brake resivior, indicating worn pads. This is because the caliper pistons stick out of the caliper further, to maintain contact with the brake pads....hence more fluid in the system, less in the resivoir. Do not top-up. Also, leave resivoir cap off when resetting pistons. Careful any debris gets into resivoir! When the pistons are pushed back in, the level will return to 'max' unless you have a leak in the system
This is what the caliper assembly looks like, The forward facing cover keeps the pads in place, and is removed by loosening two retaining bolts. On older cars, you may simply have some spring clips and pins. Note flexible brake hose which should be inspected for cracks or damage
note bolts top and bottom
[bolts slackened
In some cars, it is possible to just remove the bottom bolt and swing the cover up to expose the pads. In this case, both had to be removed for full clearance. It also made the task of resetting the pistons easier by removing the caliper altogether
[with the bolts off, you can move the caliper out of the way. NEVER let the caliper hang by the flexible hose. If necessary, tie it to the suspension so the hose is not under strain or twist.
Worn pads are clearly visible, and can now be removed
The pads are backed by shims, and these are easily removed, folowed by the bads. Take care not to get any oily fingerprints on the rotors. It is also helpful to lay the removed parts out the way they came off, noting carefully the orientaion of springs and clips
[shims, old pads, new pads...OEM Toyota
The new pads did not come with new shims and clips, so I reused the old shims and clips. Be careful when removing the clips, as they can be easily damaged. Take careful note how the fit, and which one goes on which pad!
note use of old clip
Pads ahd ships in place
Time now to refit the caliper. Since the pads are thicker than the old ones, the caliper piston must now be pushed back into the caliper so the caliper assembly can be replaced. While it may be possible to pry it back using a screwdriver or other such lever, I prefer to use a g-clamp and an old pad. In this way, the piston is pressed back in evenly and n a more controled manner
Caliper, showing exposed piston
It is a good practice at this time to examine the piston for signs of corrosion or pitting, if the piston surface is visible, especiallyif the car has been left idle for some time. In older cars, pert of the piston surface is actually exposed when the pad becomes worn, so there is a much greater risk of piston damage due to moisture and dirt exposure. The piston must be perfectly smooth, otherwise it can damage the caliper seals
[Here you can see hw much the piston is protruding. It has to be bushed back flush
The tools
Once the piston is reset, the caliper can be reinstalled. Assembly is the reverse of removal
Remember with new pads you need to bed them in before driving like a lunatic. No hard acceleratoin / hard stops to 'test them out'
MG Man wrote:either way I wouldn't grease those
grease would make them deteriorate
Some mechanics put silicone behind the pads or behind the shims
On my older cars I use copper based grease
True story:
Mornin' yuh ha copper-based grease?
A cup ah woh????
GREASE...copper BASED grease
We ha grease in choob an plastic container...we eh he de one in de cup
Ok thanks...have a nice day
MG Man wrote:nah
couldn't find copper-based grease for the back of the pads, but the shims do their job anyway
assuming u mean the piston dust seals, grease is not a good idea....
pins were moving nice and free so I left them alone
NR8 wrote:I asked why wrt to the sparing part, should've specified, my bad.
Thanks though!
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