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zyrofillica wrote:...the fine for turbo is 500 sing dollars.
The penalty for engine swap... They will roll a tank over it.
So? Any supercharging options for the GDI? Must i swap pistons to lower compression?
SH!T! No room for tuning at all. Sorry to hear that. Ol' T&T is Heaven in comparison.zyrofillica wrote:oh and now tt u mentioned the GSR lancer. Im sure they have manual transmissions.
I take it since that engine is a direct bolt on to my tranny, then does tt mean that manual tranny of
the GSR's is a direct bolt on to my 4g94 2.0l GDI? Schweeet..... how sure are you of this? .
Ya and the fine for a tranny swap is 1500 sing dollars. But thats still bearable compared to
watching painfully as a tank rolls over ur car.....
mitsugdi wrote:squinty_eye wrote:What are the symptoms to indicate that the Catalytic converter is fouled or clogged.
Wondering if you G-men still have them in your cars.
What benefit is there for not having them in terms of increase in horsepower...
Still want to know where I can get me a couple of those coil packs from foreign.
To understand why a catalytic converter fails, you need to know how it works. The catalytic converter is part of the automobile exhaust system. It converts harmful compounds in exhaust into harmless compounds. In a typical passenger car, the catalytic converter, which resembles a muffler in shape, is between the engine and the muffler. It's on the underside of the car, usually underneath the passenger seat. Maybe you have felt its warmth through the floor on a long trip.
Catalytic converters have been standard on U.S. automobiles since the mid-1970s. The catalytic converter helped drive the push toward unleaded gasoline as well. Leaded gasoline contaminates the catalyst used inside a catalytic converter, destroying its usefulness and leading to a clogged converter.
After the engine exhaust gases pass through the catalytic converter, the gases go through the muffler or mufflers, depending on the make of the automobile. Some vehicles use a pre-converter as well, to perform a similar function. The catalytic converter generally lasts the life of the automobile and rarely has a problem with being clogged or plugged during its lifetime.
The inside of the catalytic converter is a honeycomb set of passageways or small ceramic beads coated with catalysts. A chemical reaction takes place to make the pollutants less harmful. There are many passages for the exhaust gases to flow, to allow for the maximum amount of surface area for the hot gases to pass.
The catalysts include:
Oxidation catalysts: Palladium (Pd) and platinum (Pt) metals in very small amounts (to keep the catalytic converter price down) convert the hydrocarbons of unburned gasoline and carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide and water.
Reduction catalysts: Palladium and rhodium (Rh) metals also in very small amounts convert the nitrogen oxide to nitrogen and oxygen. Nitrogen oxide is a big contributor to smog.
Many states and localities have legislated annual automobile emissions testing that checks the actual emissions content. The exhaust emissions test checks for the absence of a converter or a malfunctioning one during an inspection. It's illegal in some states and localities to remove a factory-installed catalytic converter. A mechanic can sometimes temporarily remove it and replace the catalytic converter with a test pipe, but the rules on this can vary from place to place.
There are two ways a converter can fail:
It can become clogged.
It can become poisoned.
There really is no "inspection port" for the consumer or mechanic to see an actual clog in a converter. Often, the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a clogged converter is suspected, some mechanics temporarily remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter and look for a change in performance.
A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded gasoline and the over-use of certain fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter.
A catalytic converter can also fail because of:
Bad exhaust valves on the engine
Fouled plugs causing unburned fuel to overheat the converter
Sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because you don't go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A partially clogged converter often acts like an engine governor, limiting the actual RPMs to a fast idle. A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure.
The catalytic converter, like the rest of the emissions system, typically has a warranty length that exceeds the term of the warranty for the rest of a typical U.S. automobile.
Here is a safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your car's perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot…enough to start fires! You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape, to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.
Dude. Arent there 2 catalytic converters for the GDI engines? I read this somewhere. from some mitsu manual. Apparently a pre converter is needed for our engine b4 it goes to the main one. Or was this for the VR4? Hmm think its safe to remove the larger/main one for increased performance. but dun ever remove the first one else ur engine going to go boom soon man~
_________________
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.
Sanctifier wrote:Silvermike wrote:because it doesnt break down and evaporate out ure engine like the synthetics and other multigrades do.
... Ahmm... Not quite mike
Synthetics and multi-grade mineral oils do offer more protection than straight-body oils.
Howerer they are also "over-hyped" to con owners with unmodified "daily drivers" to buy them IMHO.
Sleeper this might help... The Truth: ~ About Oil... and the BULLSH!T about it.Mr. Red Sleeper wrote:On acceleration i rev up to 6k, mivec kicks in as usual but on higher revs the extra pull ill normally get is not there.Where i used to get at least up to 50 kmh in 1st gear i now get up to about 30.
Basically it feels to me that the power is there but something is holding it back..As i said before the gas has gone crazy now...It almost feels like i have a choke or starvin for gas....
With no excesive smoke it sounds like something other than excessive piston-to-bore
clearance IMHO.
It almost feels like i have a choke or starvin for gas... Overheating fuel pump? Choked fuel filter?... damaged O2 sensor, fuel regulator or fuel sensor?
Detonation perhaps???... Check compression ratio like mike said... then check for blown head gasket... then ignition settings... etc. etc.
My $0.02¢
just an update guys.....
everything checked out as ok but ive now been told that my o ring seals are the problem.....even getting a lil smoke goin on when i try to take off from standstill..
does this seem like a possible cause for my symptoms?
and if so, would the normal 4g92 seals work on my MIVEC 4g92?
"The MIVEC engine:
engine - type 4G92
type: transverse in-line 4
bore x stroke: 81.0 x 77.5
capacity: 1597cc
valve train: dohc 16v with MIVEC
[i]compression ratio: 11.0:1
fuel system: (Mitsubishi) multi-point fuel injection
power: 175ps at 7500rpm
torque: 17.0kgm at 7000rpm
MIVEC engines 4g92 ge1 (1993-1996)"
wagon r wrote:the second, i had the rectangle fogs on my legnum and found them to be brighter than the circle ones. the double lights, i may be wrong but the outside one supposed to work only when the indicator light for that side is turned on. i know vega has these lights and he could confirm or deny.
DW wrote:3. Shocks
Currently I have the stock oil shocks and need to change one as it has begun to leak. I am only seeing the firm having oil shocks for this car...everyone else seems to have gas shocks. Now the price of the one oil shock from the firm....equates to about the same as 4 new gas shocks. What I want to know is which type is better for the Galant, the oil shock or the gas shock on the stock springs, etc.
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