target- 170whp b16a

[HondaB20B]

do b20 blocks have oil squirters and block girdles?

nope!!!

[stephanweaver]

So thats also another reason why that this engine is not designed for reving past stock redline 7500rpm?

On your first build, did you upgrade your rod bolts?

[HondaB20B]

yea man, everyone makes mistakes.
some fool even thought an sti could run a sohc... with vtec to both

hmph!

dat come like ahh man tell me his boosted wagon
mashing up STI's and Legacy rite now....................... den i remember was dam fools day yesterday

[Silvermike]

yea, i hear bout the wagon... sti's once not tuned right, dam slow

[HondaB20B]

On your first build, did you upgrade your rod bolts?

no!!!
just injectors & exaust piping

[havokkk]

no hondab20 say if you use 20w oil u will spin bearings on a b20

at first, when reading this, i thought HondaB20B had used a 20 weight oil on the frank... maybe that's what had you confused as well stephanweaver?

so fellas.................. my mistake was running 20W50 oil at high revs
doh worry, ahh buy honda 10W30 an put in now

he in fact was using a 50 weight...

the statment can be right or wrong, depending on how the b20 is built. For a stock b20 frank, u would use thicker oil to maintain pressures. i would use nothignless than a 20w50. personally, i would use a straight 50.

my preference is taking advantage of multigrade oil technology, as oil pickup and circulation on cold starts is improved, compared to using a single weight

M1 5W30 - B16A/B (100000km)
Redline 5W30 - EJ20T (15000km)

[Silvermike]

^ my experience with multigrade oils isnt good. I use straight oils in my race cars with good sucess...

[Sunrise City Rider]

Degreeing a cam should be done everytime you use aftermarket cams...Hence, the Cam Card with the Degree Specs...

Thats the main reason people have a hard time running wild cams on the street...Its not Degreed so it opens and closes at the wrong time...Making for a car that shuts off and stalls unless you idle at 1500RPM...

[stephanweaver]

what if my head is milled a bit, block decked, and use a thinner hg.... are you still going to degree the cam?

i rather check clerances than waste time degreeing a cam.

[stephanweaver]

On your first build, did you upgrade your rod bolts?

no!!!
just injectors & exaust piping

so its NOT possible that stock rod bolts can stretch damaging other stuff?
like in your situtation

[stephanweaver]

i also take it that THIS time you DID upgrade your rob bolts with ARP Hardware....

[Silvermike]

more than likely, its the rod bolts that would stretch, nbot the rods themselves

[Sunrise City Rider]

INjectors should not be needed to make 170whp...Your stock ones are fine to upwards of 200whp...

Especially if you Mill the head, your timing is already off...

You need Cam Gears...

Increasing compression shouldn't be done by milling the head or decking the block...
Use pistons, weld the combustion chamber and grind and glass peen, but don't mill the head...Especially if you don't have Cam Gears...

[Sunrise City Rider]

The Big end of the rod will not break, it will Break by the Piston...

[Silvermike]

on trinidad piss gas, i would put the bigger injectors

[X2]

This thread a setta rooster guessing and puffing chest...


BtW... Hondab20b... if you buy a foreign used engine that was running synthetic and you switch to a conventional oil without at least doing a full flush... it would be possible to spin a bearing... particularly when eclipsing stock redline. Not bound to happen, but very possible.


Zee, bro... talking sense will just rile up this post....

[W2J]

ok question X2 if you build a motor should you use conventional oil to break in or synthetic oil and if its synthetic should I buy it to flush the engine too when it is first started to get rid of any metal filings ?

[stephanweaver]

i would use a straight conventional oil with a magnetic drain plug

[stephanweaver]

non detergent oil

[VexXx Dogg]

ent b blocks are all aluminium?

why a magnetic drain plug?

i dont know, just asking

[stephanweaver]

to catch the metal filings druing break in period

[X2]

w2j... all builders have their own opinions, but most people would receommend using conventional to break in. I have never used synthetic on any internally fresh motor I have worked on. but my point on flushing when switching from synthetic to conventional has nothing to do with metal filings or debris... it has to do with the differing molecular structure of synthetics, which tend to leave behind residue in the microscopic cracks in the journals and bearing surfaces. When this residue mixes with conventional oils and possibly slips between bearing surfaces, you can get an inconsistent viscosity.

Vexx dogg... although the blocks are aluminum, not all parts are... the cranks are steel, so are the rods.

[VexXx Dogg]

thank ye kindly sir.

i see... this is where experience comes in....i always thought the bottom end was either all aluminium or at least some of the innards wouldve been aluminium alloy or so.