Noisy hydraulic tappets & Mitsu related *hiccups*

*KRONIK* · Postby ***KRONIK*** » September 8th, 2008, 9:37 pm

stang wrote:Which purolator oil filter you would use on a 2000cc GDI Galant?

i really dont know the answer to ur question nah

but the place where u buying the filter should tell u which one is the correct one... 8-)

Postby **W2J** » September 8th, 2008, 10:10 pm

I told you already to bleed your lifters you are sharing your experience with people who cannot help you which will only make things worst.

*KRONIK* · Postby ***KRONIK*** » September 8th, 2008, 10:14 pm

i pm u and u didnt reply me.....

how do u "bleed lifters"????

Postby **W2J** » September 8th, 2008, 10:30 pm

*KRONIK* wrote:i pm u and u didnt reply me.....

how do u "bleed lifters"????

Any competent mechanic will know how.

tools needed

paperclip
all the tools needed to remove your cam.

Step 1. Remove the rocker arm from the top of the valve and lifter. this just sits on top of the valve and lifter and isnt held in by anything.

Step2. remove the lifter. This can be a little tough, just pull on the top of the lifter untill it pops out. set the lifter aside. you should not be able to push the head of the lifter down at this point.

Step 3. Insert the paperclip into the lifter head. the paperclip must go down at least 1.5" untill it unseats the ball valve in the lifter. It can be a little tough to get the ball valve to release. Once the ball valve is released you will be able to pump the head (teardrop) of the lifter.

Step 4. Turn the lifter upside down with the paperclip still inside. Proceed to pump the head of the lifter until oil squirts out of the lifter (approx. 6 times). You should now be able to push the head of the lifter down with your thumb relatively easy.

Step 5. Lube the lifter with some fresh motor oil and reinstall the lifter into the head. reinstall the rocker and reinstall the cams.

Step 6. When you start up the car the head will be very loud because there little oil in the lifters. start the car, let it idle for 30 seconds, then rev it up to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 10 seconds, let it idle for 30 seconds, then rev it back up to 3000 rpm and hold it for 10 seconds. repeat this untill the lifter noise goes away (approx. 10-15 times)

Step 7. enjoy your tick free valvetrain

*KRONIK* · Postby ***KRONIK*** » September 8th, 2008, 10:34 pm

good stuff there gerrard

hopefully i could do this ASAP........

tanx

xtech · Postby **xtech** » September 9th, 2008, 5:07 am

the main problem with the engine lies in its name GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) The fuel is directly injected into the cylinders and does not go through the inlet tract. Only air goes throught the inlet tract and valves and this is where the problem lies - no amount of fuel line cleaners will do any good as they don't go into the inlet tract. Modern engines rely on EGR valves to recycle exhaust and crancase gases (which include oil mist) back into the inlet tract. On a normal engine this presents no problem as the fuel air mix combines with this and does not allow any build up of carbon on the back of the inlet valves or throttle body. In the GDI engine there is no fuel going through the inlet tract just air and all the crap from the EGR valve which builds up as carbon deposits in the throttle body and on the back of the lifters on the inlet valves and this causes all the problems with poor running / idling and engine management lights coming on.
The only real cure is a decoke to remove carbon build up and run on premium fuel and use the recommended synthetic oil in the sump.
Take off the inlet manifold and soak the inlet lifter valves with a chemical carbon remover which will remove a lot of the deposits.
To sum up this engine was designed to run low sulpher fuels this gas we have here cause it to be significantly inferior in performance and efficiency to their Japanese counterparts.

sharKKmaN · Postby **sharKKmaN** » September 9th, 2008, 9:30 am

good info thr guys... i must try.... but xtech

my sharKKy isnt gdi its the ole fashoned carb engine...

i believe tht all cars shud get de-carbonized for overall optimum performance...but is tht the cure fer my lifters??? thats just food fer thought...
i will try w2j cure after xtech's tho
thanks alot guys :mrgreen:

xtech · Postby **xtech** » September 9th, 2008, 9:42 am

W2J "cure" bleeds the trapped oil and air but the carbon build up still exsists soaking will loosen this so i guess you on the right track

Oh an i think all mitsu lifters suffer from the tick tick tick
my 4G15 CK lancer ticks when oil needs changing. Oil dirty so it clogs the same little hole an air gets in.

the problem with our lifters on this bad gas is after very little millage the carbon build up stops the free flow of oil again an eventually air gets in. It is the trapped air that makes the tick tick tick noise. So you will have to his "cure" over an over an over.

I dont know what it does but the engine restore treatment stops the air from getting into the lifters. I drove for over 100,000km with no tick on one can of the stuff. Even after a few oil changes

sharKKmaN · Postby **sharKKmaN** » September 9th, 2008, 9:50 am

one guy told me about a lifters treatment frm qmi :?:

estimated cost... $800
:shock:

so i think d engine restorer about$70 (i think) shud do it
but i used this restorer already.. probably worked only till the next oil change
but i dont know ill try it again :roll:

xtech · Postby **xtech** » September 9th, 2008, 9:56 am

i tried it in my moms 626 which also suffers from the tick but engine restorer had very little effect on those hydraulic lifters. Even ticks between oil change

sharKKmaN · Postby **sharKKmaN** » September 9th, 2008, 10:04 am

so thr is a difference in the RESTORER and the restore

xtech · Postby **xtech** » September 9th, 2008, 10:26 am

No difference it the same thing

sharKKmaN · Postby **sharKKmaN** » September 9th, 2008, 10:31 am

oh ok thnx... i go stick wit my plan :arrow:

*KRONIK* · Postby ***KRONIK*** » September 9th, 2008, 8:34 pm

so QMI has a lifter treatment??

also in cae ei decide to belled dem lifters...

and anybody know a mechanic who could handle this 4 me

im very skeptical bout having my mechanic do this 4 me..........

Postby **~VēġÃ³~** » September 10th, 2008, 7:48 pm

good stuff there W2J and xtech......ent allyuh coulda share this info earlier instead ah reaching 54 pages....lol..... :lol:

nah some of we were looking for a band aid solution instead of going through what you suggested W2J........but eventually I knew that would have been the eventual route

sharKKmaN · Postby **sharKKmaN** » September 10th, 2008, 7:56 pm

~ËœVÃ«gÃ…Â²Ëœ~ wrote:good stuff there W2J and xtech......ent allyuh coulda share this info earlier instead ah reaching 54 pages....lol.....

*KRONIK* · Postby ***KRONIK*** » September 10th, 2008, 8:07 pm

~ËœVÃ«gÃ…Â²Ëœ~ wrote:ent allyuh coulda share this info earlier instead ah reaching 54 pages..

4 real

timothymcdavid · Postby **timothymcdavid** » September 22nd, 2008, 7:23 pm

I jus went through all 54 pages of this ... i must say it is interesting reading ... i had heard about the coil pack problems with the GDI engines and related issues revolving around fuel local fuel quality i.e. lifters ...

I WAS seriously considering buying either a galant or cedia but these issues have me a bit concerned has anyone here purchased the new replacement lifters and installed them into their engines if so was the tapping noise resolved.

*KRONIK* · Postby ***KRONIK*** » September 22nd, 2008, 9:59 pm

a brethren of mine did on his JDm 4g15DOHC

$100 per lifter= $1600
+labour+ gaskets ETC

it still noisy like mine

blazing · Postby **blazing** » September 23rd, 2008, 12:02 am

^^ lol

Postby **~VēġÃ³~** » September 23rd, 2008, 12:46 am

damn *KRONIK*, that must have hurt!!!!

original_lollybob · Postby **original_lollybob** » September 23rd, 2008, 8:56 am

i change out all mine too... i not even gonna tell yuh the cost a repairing that entire engine of mine nah..

whey that was a mess..

but now my engine soundin showroom new :twisted: