Advice needed: Primera Radiator

[Pretender]

Guys my radiator cracked over the weekend. The car is a P11 primera with sr20ve engine. It's the original plastic top radiator. Should I replace it with a new Nissan radiator like from Neal & Massey or Motorist or is it wiser to change to a fully metal radiator.

If I do change to a built metal radiator, is there anything peripheral I need to consider changing/adjusting to accommodate eg thermostat, fans etc.

Much thanx

[fats]

change to a full metal one i got one for $1500.00 but i think its $1800.00 for it now,and no you don't have to change anything or adjust anything.


call me (fats ) 684-2002 i will check it for you.

[Adrenalinerush]

all aluminum fuh sure (Koyo or Fluidyne supposed to be the best)...much better heat transfer properties and you won't have to worry about crackin or anything...
I might be mistaken but the tranny fluid might have a tube passing through the radiator...someone double check this plz....if this is the case, simply install a sandwich plate and run a oil cooler separately from the filter and yuh good to go....

[Pretender]

Thanx guys. I will have to ask around about the aluminium. All the places i called so far only offering brass.

Fats i wuda appreciate you taking a look in truth but after the radiator cracked and the temperature started to go up the car started to idle badly like it going to cut off. And i there was a loss of power.
The needle just reached like 3/4 way up but the loss of power made me tow the car to a mechanic in Tableland (which is kinda far from me) to check the gasket and the head to be sure.

The car (and broken radiator) is still there because i was trying to get a rental this week to organize my parts and sheit but was unsuccessful.

[THE SYNDICATE]

change to a full metal one i got one for $1500.00 but i think its $1800.00 for it now,and no you don't have to change anything or adjust anything.


call me (fats ) 684-2002 i will check it for you.

X2!

[Pretender]

I changed the radiator to a full metal one. Also had the mechanic remove the head and had it pressure tested and checked for warping. Everything was ok, but like 3 days after i got back the car from mechanic it idles strangely when cold.

It starts fine but after 2 mins the rpm fluctuates (surges and drops). The engine shakes as if its going to cut off but it doesnt unless i try to give it gas, then it dies. If i jus let the car warm up for 10 mins it settles and is fine afterwards.

Any ideas on wat it cud be.

[krack korn]

Clean Maf first. Check connection to temperature sensor. TPS and throttle plate stop point may need adjusting and base idle needs to be set properly. Followed by an idle learn.

Should have never touched that head unless u knew for sure the gasket had blown.

If the odometer has more than 100 000k on it u should have changed the thermostat for good measure and the short hose at the back of the engine.

[Pretender]

Thanx krack korn, I cleaned the MAF yesterday with QD Contact Cleaner but the problem still exists.
I removed the head to change the gasket because the car had no power to make it up any hill and if i stopped even on a flat it took some time to build some momentum to move.

Mechanic said it was a compression problem. Also, the day before the radiator burst I removed the rad cap and started the car and the coolant jumped out. Reading some tuners' previous threads this suggested the gasket may be blown.

I changed all the hoses with the radiator even the short ones to the side and back of the engine. I will change the temperature sensor and thermostat. I also wanted to change the O2 sensor. Jus waitin on month end.

[krack korn]

which diagnostic connector does your car have? the grey one just under the fuse box or the white "obdII style" under the dash?

A look with the right diagnostic tool will tell u a lot and save u a lot of headache. Not ur average scan tool or code reader but the ability to read live data from the ecu.

Don't change the O2 just for so, a new genuine one is $600 +.

If it is working just leave it till it stops working or becomes sluggish. Don't bother to change for genuine. Get a universal 3 wire(or 4 wire can work as well) from bosch, denso, NTK/NGK, borg warner or Beck Arnley, this should cost less than $300. The wires are a chrome alloy that won't solder so just cut and crimp to your old connector when it is time to change.

The thermostat u should def change its about $120-140 new genuine nissan.

New genuine temp sensor is around $80, if this is working fine leave it alone.

[Anil_Sooknanan]

BTW anyone looking for a P11 parts i have the radiator, QG18de engine complete,and transmission , ecu, tcu, harness a few people from on tuner knows the car and even ride the car and know how it performs the reson for taking it out was to go SR anyone intrested give me a buzz

[Keyser Soze]

Pretender, when my SR in my primera overheated (same radiator problem) I had a similar idling problem as you after changing the radiator and water pump. Thinking that I had a blown headgasket too I contacted the Nissan guru (Dave) and he informed me that these engines are bulletproof (what we all should know...). What he advised is that I check the plugs and plug wires and sure enough the plug wires (aftermarket) were leaking current to the valve cover. I replaced those with the originals and have not had the problem since...

[Pretender]

Krack Korn the diagnostic connector is white, but it is under the fuse box. I think i will seek a reliable diagnostic place.

Thanx Keyser Soze i'll check the plugs and wires.

[Incognito]

The radiator on my P11 cracked on me as well. I changed to a full metal with no problems, modifications etc.... Over one year now. I think I paid $1,300 at the time... Dave's (or Deo's? off the south bound h'way... They manufacture to bolt-up, no probs.

Some advice though, it would be a good time to slip in a new thermostat unless you have already done so ....especially if you did over 100,000km since you changed it the last.... inexpensive insurance... approx. $110. for original, give or take....

[Pretender]

Thanx for the advice guys. I changed my thermostat and problem is gone. Cleaned my injectors too jus for good measure.

[krack korn]

What was wrong with the thermostat? Was the rubber deteriorating on it, did u boil it to verify it was indeed opening as expected.

[Pretender]

Truthfully i didn't inspect the old one. I bought the new one and jus asked the mech to change it since the car is doing more than 100,000 km. Jus really wanted to get rid of the problem.

I think i left the old one by him too.

I'll try to get it back.

[Licensed to Walk!]

Great read. Had the same issue with the radiator on my P11 over a year ago, changed to metal, and i getting a fluctuating idle on cold start since then.
Going to get me a new thermostat on Saturday.

[caglowe]

good info