The Official CS Lancer Thread!

[P3UNG]

seen...well u can definitely get sumtin with less mileage for a fair amount of cash! post the pics when u get ur RORO!

[whizzard]

Does the 4G93 GDI share similar issues as those in the Cedia's 4G15?

Secondly, which is better and why, between a 05 fielder wagon and d 04 Touring Turbo lancer wagon?

tnx

[turbo_beast369]

that loud bang comin from the front or the back? check them engine mounts jus in case or if them rubbers busted on the top of your front shocks...louda bang soundin weird even for gas shocks.

my engine mounts are good recently changed front and rear with genuine mounts....d rubbers untop front shocks are good....is not really a loud bang eh.....is more of a feelind instead of a sound so to speak....a very very rigid ride.....

[idlemind]

Does the 4G93 GDI share similar issues as those in the Cedia's 4G15?

Secondly, which is better and why, between a 05 fielder wagon and d 04 Touring Turbo lancer wagon?

tnx

good questions

GDI is GDI hands down although i keep hearing the 4g15 acting up more than the 4g93. but then again the 4g15 is the common of the two.

you gonna have to clean the TB often, and hope the engine-side fuel pump hold out to a nice 100k km before it starts to give issues. yes it will act up eventually because of trini gas (subject to opinion).

ensure your air filter is clean and your gas is clean by not running down to E to full up. fuel additives are not advised. absolutely no engine washing. lubricate periodically with wd40. oh and the 4g93 compression ratio is 12:1 so ensure you dont burn oil excessively and check to see if your oil is leaking into ur plugs.

these are the issues i have had to check/deal with the 4g93 GDI.
otherwise the car has nice pep.

wrt your second question i think it comes down to likeness/loyalty to the brand. the toyota is hands down no problems, i know someone with the 1.8 fielder and the car runs marvellous. the lancer turbo wagon will be a flashier vehicle to own. decked out in ralliart tidbits and turboed you cant go wrong. but again its GDI under the hood. one day maybe not now you will have issues to deal with.

if you are looking for:
a keeper for the next 5 years without issue = fielder
a flashy, faster ride = lancer
something to keep you quiet for a year and showboat then move on = lancer
easy on gas = toyota can use super unleaded, GDI has to use premium
interior space = i want to say fielder but i havent had experience with the lancer wagon.
head turner = lancer looks mean with a nice FMIC installed
rep = lancer, loaded with the ralliart works
low maintainence = fielder, you need someone who knows GDI to start fixing it

all in all if you getting a 1.8 fielder wagon that has a nice kit take it without a doubt, those are fast enough to give you an edge over the rest.

if its a 1.6 fielder looking like all the other fielders on the road, then the choice gets a lil sticky. you know what i mean.

hope this helps a bit.

[whizzard]

idlemind
thanks alot, you did help.

if its a 1.6 fielder looking like all the other fielders on the road, then the choice gets a lil sticky. you know what i mean.

unfortunately it is a sticky situation (i think its actually 1.5).

I originally had my focus on a CS3 lancer sedan and already had all mods in mind (but decided a s/w would be more handy at this time). Don't think I have the time or experience to maintain a GDI, so it seems I would have to go with the fielder (which appearance-wise is a bit boring and limited)

Thanks

[venum]

that loud bang that you hearing when u hit a pothole is teh shock

it doesn't drop fast enough to absorb the impact

i'm guessing that shock absorber was changed - had this problem when i changed shocks on my CK and didn't use teh OEM recommended, but a similar fit KYB

as for the oil shocks

i believe that teh stock shocks are gas

the CK's came with front gas and rear gas-oil

the cs should be all gas

check someone in a parts place that has a KYB catalog they can match your mitsu numbe ron teh shocks to a KYB number so u can buy the KYB replacement taht is exact as oem

[turbo_beast369]

i'm guessing that shock absorber was changed - had this problem when i changed shocks on my CK and didn't use teh OEM recommended, but a similar fit KYB

as for the oil shocks

i believe that teh stock shocks are gas

the CK's came with front gas and rear gas-oil

the cs should be all gas

check someone in a parts place that has a KYB catalog they can match your mitsu numbe ron teh shocks to a KYB number so u can buy the KYB replacement taht is exact as oem

I think I jus threw away the old shocks so I dont have a OEM Part Number....I'm thinkin it could have possibly been gas-oil front and back because the car drove very smooth from the firm and also gas shocks has been known to ride very stiff....the better thing to do was to get the KYB part number from the OEM shock in DM but I doubt they will wanna give you that...I have a padna that used to work there but he left.....

Should I go by one ah them suspension ppl like SUSPEX and let him install whatever shocks they use (not really to drop it low probly bout an inch max) becuase I hear they does give u a rel smooth ride.....

[venum]

doubt that it was gas-oil in front

My CK was stock gas in front

so CS should also be gas in front

gas rides very smooth - stock smooth once u re-use the correct model gas shocks

i will see if i have the OEM KYB number for teh CS3

I will advise against going by agarage and telling them - use whatever, that is a sure way to get what someone else wants on YOUR car

u ususally don't get good work when u do that

and if they lowering, is not gonna be stock ride quality after

[idlemind]

fellas i need the house light bulb
its the non-sheilded type bulbs
its bigger than the park light bulb and smaller than the big size one

checked ESAS, Autorama, Steves Electrical and other places in Aranguez and El Socorro...nothing

[turbo_beast369]

I will advise against going by garage and telling them - use whatever, that is a sure way to get what someone else wants on YOUR car

u ususally don't get good work when u do that

and if they lowering, is not gonna be stock ride quality after

I don't necessarily want to lower d car..... I just heard they put oil shocls for a smoother ride...and also the shocks I have on right now has d car ridiin a lil higher than original becuz I see alot of lancers a lil lower than mine......yeah it would be appreciated if u get the OEM KYB Part # thanks....

[ZeroOne]

Great thread going on here, ive read every page. I have a 4G15 GDI CS2.

First question i have is about the engine oil grade. Im currently using Castrol 15w 40 but i see that you all use 15w 50. This manual here recommends 40 grade oil for tempretures over 30 degrees.

www.zabatt.com/images/product%20manuals/0C1947.pdf

So should i switch or not?

After reading about the K&N filters i decided to try them so i went to car botique and brought both oil and air frop in filter. I like the air filter because instad of buying a new one every 2 months or so you just have to take it out and clean then pop it back in pretty cool.

But the oil filter had me wondering what is the difference in the Fram oil filter which costs 20tt and the k&n filter which costs 95tt?

[idlemind]

ZeroOne, i use 10w30 Mobil1
as thin as it is, i fine its the best oil to match my car and driving habits.
ive had no regrets.

other GDI drivers use other grades as well.

wrt the k&n, just follow the instructions on the k&n site about cleaning.
YOU DONT WANT TO OIL THE WRONG SIDE! not with this gdi engine.

wrt the oil filter ive seen at least 4 fram filters for my engine,
it all comes down to grip and volume with those.
wrt k&n vs fram i not too sure, always used fram.

[ZeroOne]

10w30 your probably the only one using a grade that fine well except for those racing men.

[illumin@ti]

i use 10/30 mobil also in my ck4 / 4g92 sohc..

only thing having the oil that thin is that after a cpl days of lead footing, ur oil level will drop.. cause: blow by.

if thats a non issue for u i say why not.. i punish that engine and its very faithful.

others here can attest to that ...... right? idlemind,

[idlemind]

hey once u can admit to flogging that engine then i can rest knowing a CS mek a stickerz dong CK brek a sweat

[illumin@ti]

i never said it was being flogged at the time of your lynching

but for the record .. 1.6 ck > 1.8 gdi ck:1 gdi:0

[venum]

but for the record .. 1.6 ck > 1.8 gdi ck:1 gdi:0

^^^ without argument

Punk

you need to ask for a T6 bulb

buy some PIAA T6 Extreme white - you will NEVER go back to stock

trust meh - i had themin teh silver lancer and now running them in Elle's maplights, and hood lights

or buy teh cheapo yellow T6's for $6.00 each

Sherrif in Sando has teh regular's

[fras]

tsk tsk

[idlemind]

no n@ti, a win over me is nothing to boast bout
my car is no way tuned to run urs, u kno this

..but i did stay within a couple car lengths

venum i walked with the bulb and these ppl still didn have
im thinkin a standard park light bulb will work but not be bright enough unless i buy the ones from e2r. or pick up the PIAA for me and send it up my side with the wife.

fras, ah hear a CS man in bago giving the regulars a hard time

[venum]

u feel i stocking for amazon.com or wha

u getting PIAA from E2R or W2J

post a pic of that buld cuz i find it hard to believe that parts places doh have it

[fras]

venum try the Intense White PIAA!


idlemind I wonder who that could be lol

[rick8930]

anyone have the timing belt part number mitsubishi #?

[idlemind]

check the first post buddy
http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/vie ... 80&start=0

[P3UNG]

haha! yuh beat me to it....lol!

yeah man pull a 180 n check that first post....good stuff all u could need!

[QG]

Great thread going on here, ive read every page. I have a 4G15 GDI CS2.

First question i have is about the engine oil grade. Im currently using Castrol 15w 40 but i see that you all use 15w 50. This manual here recommends 40 grade oil for tempretures over 30 degrees.

www.zabatt.com/images/product%20manuals/0C1947.pdf

So should i switch or not?

After reading about the K&N filters i decided to try them so i went to car botique and brought both oil and air frop in filter. I like the air filter because instad of buying a new one every 2 months or so you just have to take it out and clean then pop it back in pretty cool.

But the oil filter had me wondering what is the difference in the Fram oil filter which costs 20tt and the k&n filter which costs 95tt?

You know I do not know what oil i using
I doh know the brand...I do not even know what grade
When time for the tune up I will select the oil I want

[venum]

fras, next time i have to buy i will check the intense white

QG, you have the balls to walk in here and say that u don't know what oil u using

teh only way taht is acceptable is if u now get teh car and haven't done an oil change yet

else

idle should be along shortly to keep u company

[ZeroOne]

ok so i did an oil change yesterday and the mech said that they recommend 20w 50 for my car so i said no probs ill change next time.

I asked him wats the difference between the K&N oil filter and the fram and he said pretty much nothing so i was a bit disappointed.

Oh BTW i need all the mounts and 2 front shocks but that guy federal is quite in sando hes a bit too far for me, anywhere else i could get those parts preferably new trying to stay away from DM.

[P3UNG]

QG yuh lie...haha!!! well i cyah put yuh on blast like venum, cause i muhself dunno what in my engine, but i have DM serivicing the ride and i never ask... (i know very negligent of me) i believe they use Shell Helix though..but the grade i go find out this week cause its that time of the mileage..hehe!

ZeroOne what u runnin in the engine now?

[idlemind]

the oil rating in the CS Manual based on temperature are as follows:

minus 10 to positive 50 or more degrees Celsius
SAE 20W-40, 20W-50

minus 15 to positive 50 or more degrees Celsius
SAE 15W-40, 15W-50

minus 25 to positive 50 or more degrees Celsius
SAE 10W-40, 10W-50

minus 25 to positive 40 degrees Celsius ONLY
SAE 10W-30

minus 35 or less to positive 20 degrees Celsius
SAE 5W-40

minus 35 or less to positive 10 degrees Celsius
SAE 5W-30


the green and red bodies are workable in our climate
the blue bodies would burn out too quickly.

by those calculations n@ti, i would say we both are reaching temperatures above 40 degrees C thats why we are experiencing frequent burn off.

i think next change il try the 15w-40

[P3UNG]

idlemind thanks for the breakdown.