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The Official CS Lancer Thread!

Mitsu Lancer, Evo, GSR, MIVEC, 4G**, GDI, Galant, Outlander, L200 Sportero/Triton etc.

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 26th, 2009, 8:12 pm

QG, if you are getting trouble to start, fire the ignition about 7-10 times quickly...if it starts then your starter is going. happened to me already and can come about if water gets in the starter like from driving through flood. the good thing is it can be serviced.

welcome kampoon, glad to finally have a contact on that side of the world.
hopefully we can all benefit in the event hard to get parts are needed.
i also hope u can keep up wth our dialect and forum language :)

btw post some pics or register your CS in your Garage

any ralliart parts over there???

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kampoon
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Postby kampoon » May 26th, 2009, 10:38 pm

Idlemind,

Yes.....There is some Raliart parts all around ...but must find it out thru shops and second hand shop or our neighbour country Thailand and Singapore....

Is good that some of our parts are compatible with E7/8/9 and Malaysia country make car Proton Wira and Waja.

May i know what currency are you guys discussing here ??? Euro ??

I just added My vechile in the Garage.....

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Postby Shaolin » May 27th, 2009, 7:21 am

QG wrote:Help:

My CS taking a long time to start. It's beginning to get worst, I hear a click sound in the engine bay when I turn the ignition but car would not start :(
When I keep fiddling the key it would then start up like normal.

I bought a new battery about 2 months and alternator is charging at 14 (the tech guy said that's normal).
Any one experience this problem before?


In addition what what was suggested by idlemind you can also check to see if the car starts faster/better in Neutral vs Park if it does then unplug your inhibitor switch, spray with some contact cleaner, grease it and plug it back in.

Was getting that same problem, when i turn key to start all i getting is a click, i did the above and it hasnt given a problem since. After checking battery, alternator, starter of course...... :roll:

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venum
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Postby venum » May 27th, 2009, 8:47 am

idlemind wrote:QG, if you are getting trouble to start, fire the ignition about 7-10 times quickly...if it starts then your starter is going. happened to me already and can come about if water gets in the starter like from driving through flood. the good thing is it can be serviced


u graduating from nonsense talking punk to sensible speaking punk

some good advise there

that happened to me with teh L200

drove thru a lot of water and then parked up and the engine got cold for some hours

1 - 2 weeks later all I was getting was *click * when i tried to start

removed teh starter and serviced, changed brushes - problem fixed

we linked it to the water, cuz when the starter was opened there was moisture

since then i have driven through water several times, but never allowed teh engine to get cold after :P

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ronsin1
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Postby ronsin1 » May 27th, 2009, 10:07 am

happend to the alternator in my Black CS water penetrated and the enigne was allowed to cool

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QG
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Postby QG » May 27th, 2009, 10:54 am

That's some good advices there ppl.

Shaolin, I put the lever in neutral as well and same problem.

Friday I will check out the brushes in the starter.

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 27th, 2009, 12:23 pm

one quick question...I find my CS burnin too much gas....on average how much KM do you fellaz get on a full tank of gas being $150-$160 worth from an empty tank. Normal driving that is....occassionally I floor it when I ketch a vapse....

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ZeroOne
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Postby ZeroOne » May 27th, 2009, 9:21 pm

on an empty tank (150 premium) i get around 420km.

How do i access the bulbs behind the ac controls? One is blown

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TURBOT
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Postby TURBOT » May 28th, 2009, 2:12 am

i use super..........its about 100 from almost E to full...............struggle to make 300km :S:S
i def think something wrong with that seeing the kinda figures u guys callin.....

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nes123
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Postby nes123 » May 28th, 2009, 2:45 am

I get 530km on $180 premium. AC using right tru I get 500km

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ZeroOne
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Postby ZeroOne » May 28th, 2009, 8:07 am

TURBOT, i think the problem is that your using super :lol:

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 28th, 2009, 8:40 am

ok from d figures allyuh callin....the average mileage you supposed to get on a full tank of gas works out that for every dollar of gas you get 2.8 km give or take....

I think my exhaust has a small leak becuz when I drive aside a big wall I hear an unusual exhaust note....but would it contribute to my poor gas mileage?

the other day from E on the tank I put $60 premium (with A/C off) and I only got 115km altho I could have pushed it to 120 or 125....then again there was a time I drove from mayaro to sando bout a mm above the E mark @ 20 km/hr......no gas station was open....I hardly use the A/C now.....

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Postby TURBOT » May 28th, 2009, 10:45 am

i dunno we use the same amt of litres ...........could it be my 20w 50 oil?
super gives u so much less km/s than premium??? and i think i also need to check/change plugs........ my battery died this morn so i hadda organise a new one tomorrow......

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 28th, 2009, 11:10 am

where can I get a OEM 4G18 transmission mount besides DM and federal?
bella doesnt have any used.......

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QG
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Postby QG » May 28th, 2009, 11:12 am

TURBOT, I recommend you get the ACDelco no water/maintenance battery for $940. 700 cranking amps, I got it by duncan village, san fernando and with 18 MONTHS WARRANTY.

You can go to guy every 3 months to get a diagnostic test on battery and alternator.


Well i not going into any arguement with no one, but my experience, I get more kms with Super Unleaded than Premium.

My brother-in-Law has a CS 1.6L with Extractors and Intake, he uses $20 In super unleaded from San Fernando (his home) to Chaguaramas (up north)

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 12:30 pm

Gas:
i get 300km on average from $150-$160 premium
long runs like (Grande, Mayaro, South)i can get 350-400km
these figures are with A/C on/off and usual tiptronic and Ds drving.
and i hit 140kmh+ everynight. I would NOT recommend Super in any CS.

GasMileage is determined by many factors.
Driving Habits, AC use, leaky Exhaust, old/dirty Plugs, dirty Air Filter, and to a lesser extent the oil and tranny issues and a low voltage battery. Extractors and any performance Exhaust parts are going to lower gas mileage as well.

Battery:
AC Delco and theres another maintaince free one offered by Laughlin and DeGannes are your best bet. Do not succumb to ACL's PowerMaster and Turbo batteries, they are rubbish, thats what i have and ive changed 3 within the warranty time. ACL even telling you the battery prices have reduced, but please dont bother

Mounts:
Check DM their prices arent bad. paid $600 for my Tranny mount about a year ago

AC Control Lights.
Gonna have to scrap the Center Console check with the Workshop Manual posted in the Manuals thread which is Stickied to the top. An on that topic i have a blown [P] and park light bulb to replace on my IP as well :(

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 28th, 2009, 12:52 pm

I called DM 2day for the tranny mount and they said $921 less 10%...federal say $1,150....anywhere cheaper?

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 12:56 pm

wow turbo_beast369, das hot prices.
the rubber completely burse out?
coz u can consider rebulding it

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R@lli@rt
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Postby R@lli@rt » May 28th, 2009, 1:16 pm

turbo_beast369, that real sounding expensive for real yo...i remember paying between 500-600!

idlemind, i used to get around the same kinda gas/mileage...making grande to mayaro and s'do too!

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 28th, 2009, 1:35 pm

idlemind, it didnt completely burst out but i seein a tear and it kinda skinnin out a bit....i found that I was gettin vibration from the engine so i discovered the front and rear mounts needed changing so I changed them (OEM) in january when DM had the 50% sale....but I still gettin a vibration when the gear selector in D and when i put it in N it kinda stops....when my fog lights on you can see it shakin when u in traffic.... so when i was inspecting my engine bay for anything unusual I saw that tear on the mount...that vibration irritates me.....its worse when the AC is on....i don't like the idea of re-building the mounts....

R@lli@rt,yep its 2 expensive for my pocket...I am considering importing it or if not buyin a used mount in good condition....might consider changing the engine in the future....2 bad I didnt have the cash when DM had the 50% sale....

I also noticed the camshaft seal is leaking.....the mechanic where I work apparently left the job so I am lookin for a good mechanic who has done this repair and did it the right way!!!!

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 1:54 pm

turbo_beast369 theres nothing wrong with rebuilding eh, esp if u say it hasnt burst out completely, now the tranny mount is usually the first to go depending on your driving habits. i would recommend this over buying a used one in good condition because when u put down rubber for a long period of time it gets brittle and thats the last thing u want esp since u dont have a clue how long its been sitting in the scrap yard.

try importing it or contact JUS4SHO he mite be able to give u another option.

oh kampoon, we use the TT dollar and thats our own denomination but $US, an the English Pound is also accepted here and/or converted to TT in our banks

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Postby TURBOT » May 28th, 2009, 2:04 pm

thanks idlemind
quick question y u against the super...? cuz i only notice a little power loss with the super vs premium....... the car used to be run strictly on premium but probably a yr now i using super...

ur 300km for a full tank sounding more like my car .......


and abt the mounts you alll talking about rebuilding in poly or rubber?

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 2:26 pm

TURBOT, well for starters GDI requires 95+ ron which is premium.
all CS maybe even CK lancers, GDI or not, have 95+ ron on the tank cover.
and back when gas prices went up DM insisted you use Premium in their cars.
their cars meaning the 4G18 ones.

i have heard from fellow lancer owners that there is power loss with super and occasionally the idle goes erratic.

now i do not trust NP nor the gas stations, octane levels decrease once the gas trucks leave the compound and it decreases fast. gas left for more than 3 days in the stations are considered no good for fuel injected cars. by the time the gas gets into your car its not 95 or 92 ron and u better believe it. this measurement is taken in the lab.

with this in mind we can only get the minimum requirement (95 ron) MMC wants in their cars and you can only get this from gas stations that have a high turnover of fuel. Curepe station has at least 1 full up from trucks every day. so if anything else you guaranteed to get the highest level of octane in your gasoline there.

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TURBOT
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Postby TURBOT » May 28th, 2009, 3:28 pm

well i hear yuh ... i have a local 4g18 so it is non gdi.... i agree with the power loss as fo the idle, i never experienced that...

guys i wanted to find out why is air still getting into my car even tho the button to recirc the air inside the car is on...... its really annoying driving in ac and a man with ah old car or a diesel viechicle mash out infront of you and all u smellin is fumes......

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 3:31 pm

that happens with all cars buddy, you have an A/C air filter u kno and its located under the passenger dash which gets outside air from under the wipers.

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 28th, 2009, 3:36 pm

idlemind wrote:turbo_beast369 theres nothing wrong with rebuilding eh, esp if u say it hasnt burst out completely, now the tranny mount is usually the first to go depending on your driving habits. i would recommend this over buying a used one in good condition because when u put down rubber for a long period of time it gets brittle and thats the last thing u want esp since u dont have a clue how long its been sitting in the scrap yard.

try importing it or contact JUS4SHO he mite be able to give u another option.


how exactly can I re-build the mounts....

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turbo_beast369
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Postby turbo_beast369 » May 28th, 2009, 3:39 pm

idlemind wrote:that happens with all cars buddy, you have an A/C air filter u kno and its located under the passenger dash which gets outside air from under the wipers.


is it easy to replace the A/C filter or do you have to spend the day scraping the dash? I tried looking to see how it is replaced in the workshop manual but I not seein anything like that....

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 3:43 pm

turbo_beast369 wrote:
idlemind wrote:turbo_beast369 theres nothing wrong with rebuilding eh, esp if u say it hasnt burst out completely, now the tranny mount is usually the first to go depending on your driving habits. i would recommend this over buying a used one in good condition because when u put down rubber for a long period of time it gets brittle and thats the last thing u want esp since u dont have a clue how long its been sitting in the scrap yard.

try importing it or contact JUS4SHO he mite be able to give u another option.


how exactly can I re-build the mounts....


your first shot at this is HERE

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idlemind
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Postby idlemind » May 28th, 2009, 3:46 pm

turbo_beast369, you dont have to replace the AC filter, you need to clean it. esp if when u turn on the AC and u get an initial mocky scent.

getting to this filter however... il hav to leave it up to the CS Ole Farts to explain. come on, you kno who you are :lol:

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venum
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Postby venum » May 28th, 2009, 6:01 pm

idlemind wrote:il hav to leave it up to the CS Ole Farts to explain. come on, you kno who you are :lol:


I am here and present

but I gave u and fras this assignment to do years ago

Fras sell so he default u to hand in

u ain't do nutting yet :?:

will see what I can do this weekend punks

need to change a couple bulbs in teh A/C controls

I just changed Silver's two cradle bushings and 4 wheel allignment

$985.00 parts (OEM from Federal) and labour together

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