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The Official CS Lancer Thread!

Mitsu Lancer, Evo, GSR, MIVEC, 4G**, GDI, Galant, Outlander, L200 Sportero/Triton etc.

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venum
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Postby venum » June 7th, 2009, 8:51 pm

original_lollybob wrote:i never had a problem engine washin the service station way either

and i have the blightest GDI engine in d country :oops:


ever wonder why :?:

and here we were just thinking that u had it so by saving on Guest House fees

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Postby original_lollybob » June 7th, 2009, 8:57 pm

venum wrote:
original_lollybob wrote:i never had a problem engine washin the service station way either

and i have the blightest GDI engine in d country :oops:


ever wonder why :?:

and here we were just thinking that u had it so by saving on Guest House fees


hardy har har :arrow:

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Postby ZeroOne » June 7th, 2009, 10:45 pm

yea i did notice that Ds assists in braking thats what i use when the car in font just suddenly slows down....i hate when that happens.

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Postby ronsin1 » June 8th, 2009, 6:07 am

original_lollybob wrote:
venum wrote:
original_lollybob wrote:i never had a problem engine washin the service station way either

and i have the blightest GDI engine in d country :oops:


ever wonder why :?:

and here we were just thinking that u had it so by saving on Guest House fees


hardy har har :arrow:



yuh see I knew this was the case all along

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Postby ronsin1 » June 8th, 2009, 6:11 am

venum wrote:
ZeroOne wrote:venum, are you saying that an engine wash is no biggie?




dunno how ronsin1 backwards so, must be liming with idlemind too much





boy after the alternator incident haven't washed engines in both cars

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 8th, 2009, 8:15 am

Hear what....I heard is mostly kerosene and breeze they does use which is a boss mix...yuh could even throw a lil diesel in it....but then yuh engine go smell diesely....

let soak a lil bit then spray down with a low psi pressure washer.....

mix back some breeze alone and spray and let soak and wash again to get out d oilyness and smell from d kerosene....

take meh air compressor at work and spray at about 80-90 psi every dam drop ah water possible especially by d starter and alternator....

pull out all d electrical clips that I could visually see with my eye...spray with WD40 clip it back then douse down d whole engine with d rest of d can like a mad man...an 11 oz should do it jus right lol....

only that way I go feel safe.....i eh lettin no service station man touch my engine....to me dem fellaz does do a halfway wuk becuz thas not their engine....

who say 4G69 Mivec in their CS Lancers!!!!! I know a fella who brought down a USDM V6 engine for his Shark Mouth Galant.....i'm sure he could source it along with parts...

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Postby idlemind » June 8th, 2009, 8:55 am

breeze and kerosene??
:skurry: :skurry: :skurry:

take meh air compressor at work and spray at about 80-90 psi every dam drop ah water possible especially by d starter and alternator....


u up on a ramp right? coz the starter practically below the car

pull out all d electrical clips that I could visually see with my eye


and what of those you cannot see????

la la la laaaaa
:drama:

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 8th, 2009, 9:38 am

boi what i seein it what I wetting.....as i say i spraying WD40 like a mad man.....

or and compressor gun have a long extension so I i will get to it dont worry...

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Postby ZeroOne » June 8th, 2009, 9:34 pm

i dont know anything about my GDI so i ent even going and spray anything like mad. idlemind, where you located yuh might have to give me a tutorial :lol:

so another question *chuckles*,

so ill have to do an oil change in about 6 weeks but right now i have the normal castrol oil with the k&n filter. I want to know if i could switch to full syntethic without changing the filter because the filter would of been in use for only 5000km.

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Postby venum » June 9th, 2009, 8:46 am

ZeroOne, I'll tap yuh upside teh head first

let idle answer yuh after

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Postby idlemind » June 9th, 2009, 9:36 am

lol i was waiting for sumbody to answer him :mrgreen:

firstly, ZeroOne im all over the east-west corridor everyday

secondly, if u changing oil grades u need to change the filter coz theres some oil in there too.
u couldve probably get away with it if u were using the same oil.

if u flushing out the oil and using a heavy engine oil to run for at most a day, ul need to change the new filter too. unless u reuse the old filter during this cleansing.

and lastly, i change my filter at every oil change.
i dont even think about it. once oil changing, filter changing.

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 9th, 2009, 9:39 am

good question....with lets say mobile one full synthetic....how much until the next oil change and what filter is best to use and last the longest...OEM???
venum what filter do you use with your mobile one full synthetic oil and how often do u change? my next oil change is also approaching soon....

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Postby venum » June 9th, 2009, 5:19 pm

idlemind wrote:if u flushing out the oil and using a heavy engine oil to run for at most a day


want a tap too or wah

if u flushing the old oil use teh same grade oil, or prob a cheaper same grade oil

heavier oil will not give the same lubrication

u damaging your engine while flushing

not getting into details except

heavier, thicker oil through same size oil jets = less lubrication

don't use a straight 50 body oil to flush

I using Sakura C-1011 with Mobil1 5w-50 for 10,000km in Blondie

Same in Silver, although she getting Shell next change ~ 6 montsh from now

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 9th, 2009, 8:36 pm

venum why shell in d silver one and what grade.....I thinkin bout usin the OEM oil filter since is 10,000 km....buy why so long?

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Postby ZeroOne » June 9th, 2009, 9:22 pm

ok well first thing is the the mechanic just said then when i changing the oil to just change as normal he didnt mention anything about flushing.

Changing from 20w40 normal to 20w50 full synthtetic.

venum, wats the advantage of using the 5w-50 grade?

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Postby idlemind » June 9th, 2009, 9:27 pm

lol yeah venum educate us
and why yuh running different oil in the two cars?
and wuh kinda brand is Sakura when it have oem and K&N out there?
wuh bout Fram??? i use Fram....what u think bout Fram?

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Postby ZeroOne » June 9th, 2009, 9:32 pm

fram is good if using semi synthetic oils cause you have to change it every 5000km, it says so on the box.

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Postby ronsin1 » June 9th, 2009, 9:41 pm

idlemind wrote:lol yeah venum educate us
and why yuh running different oil in the two cars?
and wuh kinda brand is Sakura when it have oem and K&N out there?
wuh bout Fram??? i use Fram....what u think bout Fram?



I haven't had good experiences with fram

I use OEM right now if I don't get it I use the sakura

K&N top expensive for my part

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 9th, 2009, 10:00 pm

where do u buy the OEM and what price....btw what is the price of the K&N?

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Postby venum » June 9th, 2009, 11:16 pm

turbo_beast369 wrote:venum why shell in d silver one and what grade.....I thinkin bout usin the OEM oil filter since is 10,000 km....buy why so long?


Silver getting Shell because I am a firm believer in Shell products.

Running Shell Helix Plus in teh CK, Shell Rimula Super in teh L200, GlycoShell coolant in CK, 1 CS3 and the L200

wish they made gearbox oil too :(

Ever since the early days of the CK Lancer (my first true love) I have been using Shell with happy results

when we opened up teh CK's engine it was liek brass inside

here's a lil something for you all on teh Shell Ultra

http://www.shelldubai.com/industrial/tds/helixultra.pdf

Factory fill @ Ferrari and sole service fill says a lot about the quality of the oil, look at some of teh other manufacturers on that document as well

But that is not the reason I use Shell

Shell Ultra is a full synthetic and has special cleaning agents that keep your engine clean

Mitsu engines suffer from a condition known as tappet knock, so they require synthetic or semi-synth oil to prevent\minimize this, there's a whole thread in here somewhere dedicate to that.

essentially because the lighter grade 5W-40 oil gives better lubrication on startup (important in preventing\reducing tappet knock) and teh engine performs better with it. has a lot to do with the CR of teh engine and teh heat produced as well as teh ashing properties of teh burnt oil contaminating teh clean oil blah, blah, blah . . . different convo, different time

The synthetic additives contribute significantly to the performance of the oil and consequently the engine,partly or mainly because it prevents\resists thermal breakdown (loss of chemical properties and lubricity due to heat)

Shell has these agents in their gasoline as well, pity we don't get it locally (prob because Trinis won't pay for it)

I believe (prob because of my conversations with Mechanical Engineers and Mechanical Technicians @ work who maintain industrial compressors and engines that also use special Shell oils) that one of the best things that you can do for your engine is to find a good\great oil and use it constantly

sticking to the same grade, brand and type of good engine oil keeps your engine working well as it constantly has good stuff flowing around in there, lubing the moving parts and in teh case of Shell Ultra, cleaning teh engine.

a good oil doesn't work overnight (taht is what treatments are for) but over tens of thousands of kilometers of mileage coating and protecting teh important moving parts of the engine, protecting from wear and friction damage

None of that 20W 50 mineral crap in my engines :!:

Blondie started out using Mobil 1 (because teh day I needed to do the first oil change my reg parts place was out of Shell, next best thing was Mobil1 pricewise) as it was also highly vaunted in terms of additives and protection, Plus it is also synthetic, I decided to stick with for reasons mentioned above

110,000km later, that engine only slightly blackens the oil after 10,000km when it is time to change and she still runs like she used to when she was 20-something thousand km young

as for why 10,000km change interval - synthetic oils are made for extended usage, they can be run for extended periods of time, 10,000km being the general lifespan

when u pay $70.00 + per quart, u paying for a longer life product that it's 5000km rated rivals

The CS3 Lancers in my charge are high mileage cars that spend a lot of time on the highway, in traffic and do 5000km in ~ 6 weeks, which makes oil changes too frequent an activity for me, esp since I maintain 3 vehicles, so teh 10,000km intervals allow for better time management as I now have to change oil every 3 months

they are also both mostly lady-driven (by my most important ladies) at early and late hours, so reliability is of extreme importance

as for teh filter, I choose Sakura because my personal experience with them has been quite good. this is arguable and has been argued.

my experience with sakura is that they work well. the oil filters handle 10,000km. I have gotten better start-from-cold experience with Sakura than Fram. I find that teh car starts easier, and runs more smoothly with Sakura than Fram

I do not doubt that the OEM and K&N will work better than the Sakura, but for the $$$ of teh Sakura and the excellent performance they give, it is more economical

my logic: why spend teh $$$ of the OEM and K&N when the sakura does teh same job very well.

the 4G18, 4G15 and 4D56T do not have intense oil filtration requirements as maybe a 4G93T, 4G63T or 4M40T DiD

sakura is an great filter for good $$$, FRAM is an OK filter for same $$$ - sakura wins

the air filter from Sakura AS-1047 works well and allows great air flow

OEM filters can be sourced through powerseller W2J cheaper than Diamond Motors

imagine they want $375.00 + VAT for a filter for teh 4D56T that will last 10,000km when 2 sakura costs $100.00 VAT incl, OEM will work better, but is overkill IMHO

K&N is prob $100.00

hope I answered you satisfactorily




now after all that typing allyuh owe me a few LLB, the new old fart owe me just 1 a few years now, can't get it yet . . .

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 10th, 2009, 8:07 am

yes your answer was well elaborated but just a few more questions.....what grade oil in the shell you using in the CS3 and what colour is the bottle is it the 5W 40 u speak of?

I know you will have these figures somewhere in your head so what is the price of the shell oil you use...i know u said mobile one is $70 + per quart

I also suffer from the tappet knock and cold start ups with my fram oil filter and Castrol GTX 20W 50....i wanna change out that sheit becuz I had to change d oil and didnt have much time to look at brands so im approaching 5000 km in a few weeks.....

doh worry nah man LLB is not a problem....just say when and where..doh frighten...

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Postby venum » June 10th, 2009, 8:36 am

turbo_beast369 wrote:what grade oil in the shell you using in the CS3 and what colour is the bottle is it the 5W 40 u speak of?


15W 40 in teh pretty 1L grey bottle

turbo_beast369 wrote:I know you will have these figures somewhere in your head so what is the price of the shell oil you use...i know u said mobile one is $70 + per quart


usual retail is $70 - $75 per liter

turbo_beast369 wrote:I also suffer from the tappet knock and cold start ups with my fram oil filter and Castrol GTX 20W 50....i wanna change out that sheit becuz I had to change d oil and didnt have much time to look at brands so im approaching 5000 km in a few weeks.....


like I said above, don't expect overnight miracles

when I switched from Castrol to semi-synthetic Shell Helix Plus (blue can) teh improvement was pronounced and had an overnight effect

but it wasn't until about 25,000km of using the semi-synthetic that the real improvement was felt

with serious and advanced tappet knock the oil type\grade change would not help

you would need to remove those fifters and service them

change teh oil and drop in a can of Engine Restore one time

turbo_beast369 wrote:doh worry nah man LLB is not a problem....just say when and where..doh frighten...


Thank you

NO LLB Lite eh, that does just taste nasty

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 10th, 2009, 10:00 am

venum my tappet knock isnt loud at all...you hadda put yuh ears close to hear them....that should stop eventually with the lighter synthetic oil...

but it wasn't until about 25,000km of using the semi-synthetic that the real improvement was felt

so wha u sayin is that you used to use semi-synthetic and now you use full synthetic...jus wanna clarify



I think I wanna use the mobile one 5W 50 becuz of the grade type becuz it can go from 5 to 50 body....50 becuz of the climate and also whatever wear on my engine...and well becuz it's full synthetic....

about d LLB....whenever I see a beverage that has either "lite" and "diet" b4 or after the name I DO NOT buy it at all....the aspartame isn't good for you plus it does taste rel stink.....yuh doh drink beers or wha? unless yuh using that LLB as chaser ;)

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Postby idlemind » June 10th, 2009, 11:30 am

yuh doh drink beers or wha? unless yuh using that LLB as chaser


yuh askin the man fuh advise now yuh cussin him?
:lol: :lol: :lol:

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Postby idlemind » June 10th, 2009, 12:00 pm

anyone have a drivers side door mirror??
jus the glass itself i need. had a lil incident this morning

:( :( :(

if not can anyone tell me where i can get either made or replaced?
i aint paying $1200 for used

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 10th, 2009, 12:44 pm

yuh askin the man fuh advise now yuh cussin him?

nah boi idlemind I jus simply givin him a choice and askin him if he wants beers instead.....I not cussin him in any way..didnt mean in that way....venum I apologize if It sounded like I was cussin you padna....

A fren of mine door mirror glass jus drop out jus so....I really dunno if someone stole it but I didnt see any force marks or prising indentations....its a NZE Corolla and he got the original glass alone just to stick on......is in d Bamboo settlement dunno if is #1 or #2......is d bamboo obliquely opposite grand bazaar where M&N is I think....one of those parts places he said he got it...he payed $400 for his glass....check them out....the glass jus supposed to clip back on....

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Postby idlemind » June 10th, 2009, 1:24 pm

yeah is dat self i lookin for, but $400 boy?????
i lookin to spend a lil $100 :oops:

steupss.
right now it looking like The Mirror Scene from Enter the Dragon
i can get the entire thing for $20US but i cant drive like that for soo long.

anywhere does do mignified mirrors for car?

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Postby turbo_beast369 » June 10th, 2009, 1:49 pm

idlemind wrote:yeah is dat self i lookin for, but $400 boy?????
i lookin to spend a lil $100 :oops:

steupss.
right now it looking like The Mirror Scene from Enter the Dragon
i can get the entire thing for $20US but i cant drive like that for soo long.

anywhere does do mignified mirrors for car?


when u buy d mirror for $20 US u still hadda add shipping and all that stuff plus u hadda paint it back as well...ppl does put back normal str8 glass but u dont see well out of it....so boi invest in that $400 or so and it go save yuh d trouble....it might cost a lil bit more but that way u have ur mirror back the same day ;)

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Postby idlemind » June 10th, 2009, 1:53 pm

paint back wuh....i popping out the glass and tossing the housing.

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Postby nes123 » June 10th, 2009, 3:00 pm

Ah see allyuh men rating up shell? I tort Amsoil is the best true 100% full synthetic and more so than the claims of more popular brands...open to schooling :shock:

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