L200 owners........what are your experiences???

[speedaholic]

na V! the coil springs in the front... we wanna raise the front of our vans... wont the coil spring from the 4wd k34 work on my van?

[MadCrix]

the k74 has no coil springs in front.
the front "spring" is a torsion bar that bolts to the center of the chassis under the drivers seat.

[venum]

the K34 and K74 have no coil springs in teh front

they have a torsion bar

on anothe note,

I had teh pleasure of seeing a K77 last night

4M40 (2.8L) N/A

LSD FRONT and Rear

torsion bars 2 inches thick

1 of 2 in teh country (special order from DM)

initial purchase price - $310,000.00

looks like a really basic K74 N/A

a field vehicle that is used for field work

gonna organize for it to make a run with us

[speedaholic]

ohh i did not kno this.. thanks v... and madcrix.. hmmm how strange... okay then.. well we will have to improvise... i'm sure james has somthing...

[cutthroatInt]

^^^LSD front and rear hmmm


changed rear wheel seals and bearing on the RHS today. also diff oil.

if any one has intentions of doing this job any time soon contact me for the part numbers and where to buy the parts. (FOR K14 ie)

i started my own service log, documenting everything..
however i lost meh friggin envelope of receipts from the van today steupes!

i ended up using castrol EP140 gear oil for the diff.. took 2 1/2 qrts to fill up.
diff was in a mess.. check the drain plug before.




and after...




and yes.. dat was gummy sheit and iron filings..


btw i holding up on thoughts bout raising the front of the van... funds have been depleted over the last couple of weeks doing repairs to this vehicle.

[l200]

HI tuners, ah nearly get loss trying to find 3ne 2ner, lol...... cutthroatInt did you do your van in couva by top gear??

Well I also planning to do the seals on my van also,(RHS rear diff)...... got them already
,.... diff oils (castrol ep140) gear box/trans case (castrol ep90), timing belt and all front seals purchased, only to get my shocks and idle arm an I good to go. Doing the timing belt, engine seals and rear diff seals by the mechanic, shocks and gear box oils at home, for the diy lime ......yes still doing it,

if you want to raise de front just need a to adjust your torsion bar....... was reading abt it some time ago...... take a look.....

.Step 1
Jack up the vehicle on the wheel to be adjusted, and set the frame rail onto a jack stand. This is to release the stress on the torsion bar so it can be adjusted easily.

Step 2
Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the torsion bar mount on the frame. There will be a bolt in the center of the mount, pointing upward. This is the adjusting bolt, and it will accommodate a large-sized socket driver.

Step 3
Adjust the torsion bar. Turning the adjustment bolt clockwise will tighten it, raising the amount of load that can be placed on the bar. This will raise the vehicle when it is taken off the jack stand. Turning it counterclockwise will lower the available spring rate and cause the car to sit lower. Turning it too far in either direction can cause problems, so follow the specific vehicle's manufacturer guidelines when making wide adjustments. Normally, only one full turn will be enough to give the desired result.

Step 4
Lower the vehicle, and check the clearances of the frame to the ground. They should be the same for both sides. If they are not, then more adjustment will be necessary to the torsion bar adjustment bolts.

Will post more info no the diy project by the end of the week!!!

[venum]

Pm me those part numbers so that I can add it to page 1

[speedaholic]

that works for 4x2's??

[cutthroatInt]

L200, yes i did the work by Brown/Zafied Khan/ Topgear.

did the timing belts there also..

all i basically have left to do is shackle bushings... i wanted to tackle that at home.. but believe me... it not that simple.. so i mite do it there also..

and u getting all your parts rite over the road by Reputable Auto/Steve.


the k14 single can and double cab.. which are 4x2's likes speedaholic and mines do not have torsion bars.

btw, steve at Reputable Auto had the k14 Idler arm... chances are he will have the k34 also... Brand Triple 5

[cutthroatInt]

Venum, pm was sent bout the part numbers

[venum]

thanx

i changed teh shackle bushing already

wasn't too hard

pretty much a slip out an dpop-in new

was done while truck was on a lift though - makes it easier

just unbolt teh u-clamps

[cutthroatInt]

^^ so the leaf springs dont give trouble to go back in position once its out of the shackles?

i seen 2 mechanix ketch dey tun tun to install it back once the new rubbers were installed. we had to pry and push and this n dat.
it was on a suzuki jimny and on a nissan E24 panel van.


its me alone at home nah.. so i didnt want to fall into problems and need help after.

[l200]

Thanx cutthroatInt, got most of the parts by Steve, also DM, and Fiaz, and at special auto.....thinking abt going by brown for the timing belt, but only if kenny can work on my vehicle, I have a few hang-ups, abt going there, checked abt 4 other mechanics, and had a chance to check there workmanship, lets jus say they were found wanting.....

At two of them, they broke a pully, or placed a seal wrong, so the van came out leaking oil when it went in with non....... one actually forgot to bolt up the turbo shield on a k74 4x4, and other things thank God he didn't forget critical parts.....


My main issue I am pressed for time an can't afford avoidable mistakes.

well thats enough typing 4 me,,,, oh yeah cutthroatInt, i was by Brown doing my brake master cylinder seals, when i saw the van and a person with a black Dmax, came to bring some parts for it,

I had a old looking muddy (silver k34), pulled up next to the Dmax to collect my receipt..... He does great work, the best i've seen this side so far.

[cutthroatInt]

^^^ boy, only kenny i really trust at Brown too.
i hear dey bend somebody axel pressing out the lock for the wheel bearing.

then when dey were changing the timing belts, dey cracked a pulley behind the crankshaft pulley.. good ting dey had a scrapped engine on the ground.. and brown charged me 50$ extra for that and me asking the worker to clean up the tappet cover and put back fresh sealant.

now when going up with the inner seal on the banjo, the blasted man (not kenny) tap on the inside of the seal and the spring ring ting from inside the seal come off.. he ketch he ass to put it back in. he had to call kenny to do it.

i reached 10 am to change the axel seals and left after 5pm... dey does real stick.. and that is another down fall i have with them.

it was a blue DMAX.. that was me driving it.. came back with the tensioner pulley and balance shaft seal.
u is a tallish fella with long hair?
i vaguely remember that day.. it was so hectic for me as i had to work that night and only till late it was confirmed i was not getting back my transport to go to work..

[cutthroatInt]

on another note,

i just came back from a "run" up and down the highway.. while driving i began hearing a funny hissing sound. it was coming from the engine bay on the driver side. it was there on idle and when the gas is mashed. it then became a bit louder a little wile after. but no affect on performance. i pulled aside a few times to investiquire and at first i thought it was the air filter housing bolts slack.. as it sounded so. but after checkin it.. it was firmly secured... then i found the source of the noise...

underneath the k14/k34 air filter housing there is a little diaphram type one way valve. when i put my finger over the hole, the noise stopped. when i removed my finger, it was there.
air is gushing out if this hole and this is what is causing the hissing sound.
i never had this noise coming from there before.

what is the purpose of this "valve" and what do you guys think can be causing this air to be rushing out through there?

i"ll pull down the housing in the morning, but just want to get any ideas as to wot it can be.

????????????????????

[cutthroatInt]

Cylinder-Not-Firing Test
The resistance of each glow plug increases as the cylinders fire A no change in the resistance of any particular cylinder's flow plug will show that the cylinder in NOT firing. Pyrometer, a temperature sensing device can be used to detect temperatures at exhaust of each cylinder to confirm the NOT firing cylinder.

The above was taken from the NISSAN diesel thread.

no.1 cylinder on my 4d56 has a broken glow plug. i dont have any problems starting with the remaining 3 glow plugs on a morning. I just heat and bounce starter.

Does this mean the engine is firing on only 3 cylinders?

btw, the reason the broken glow plug was not extracted is for fear of pieces of it falling into the combustion chamber while removing. its been like that over a year now and really charred. so you know...

[cutthroatInt]

i kno the glow plugs serve to heat the air to allow for easier combustion and starting of the engine.

so are there any other effects of lack of a glow plug on the engine?

[cutthroatInt]

i opened up the air filter today, there is no restriction, the air filter element is in good shape and there is the usual amt of oil in the intake manifold.

this lil rubber valve thing still hissing and irritating the sheit outta me..

i can remove the valve all together by ripping off the rubber, but it serves to prevent water from entering... pshtt...

[madman2961]

^^ so the leaf springs dont give trouble to go back in position once its out of the shackles?

i seen 2 mechanix ketch dey tun tun to install it back once the new rubbers were installed. we had to pry and push and this n dat.
it was on a suzuki jimny and on a nissan E24 panel van.


its me alone at home nah.. so i didnt want to fall into problems and need help after.

I know a way

tools you would:
Socket and ratchet to loosen the shackle bolts
Jack (preferably a trolley jack)
Two Stands

ok i know a way to do this by yourself. firstly you need to put the back of the van up in the air but not too high just to let the tires to be off the ground like 2-3 inches, then you put it on jack stands. take the jack and place it under the u-bolts (where the diff meets the leaf springs) and raise it, ever so often checking to see if the weight of the diff is no longer on the shackles. once you have a little play unbolt the shackle and replace the bushings, then grease tighten up and repeat on the other side. it is fairly easy to do by yourself but i advise that once you have to be under the vehicle for a while it is good to have someone checking on you incase of the vehicle falling off the jack stands and trapping you under the diff (if you so far underneath there).

[l200]

Hi cutthroatInt, I am tall but with short hair, lol..... It's kind of hard to remember people you get a glimpse of, but vehicles are hard to forget, it abt the third time I met ur van by brown. It seems that we share the same maintenance schedule......

no.1 cylinder on my 4d56 has a broken glow plug. i dont have any problems starting with the remaining 3 glow plugs on a morning. I just heat and bounce starter.

Does this mean the engine is firing on only 3 cylinders? NO

As for a cylinder not firing, because of a broken glow plug,.....I don't think you have to worry, as diesel engines work on a different principle: the compression of air fuel mix is what causes combustion.....

(compressed air = heat then add fuel and you will have a explosion),

while in a gas engine it the spark plug ignites the air fuel mix and that causes the combustion.

( air mix wit fuel + spark= explosion)

Thats why diesel engines are high compression engines, I don't kno if that was any help.

[cutthroatInt]

^^^... yeh i gathered the broken glow plug was not a problem..

but when a hard stones mechanic tell me "yuh runnin on 3 cylinders".... it does have yuh doubting yourself nah lol...

[venum]

^ ^ ^ Wow some really good stuff in here lately

Once the rear wheels hanging freely those shackle bushings will be easy to change

You may have to support the diff/banjo while doing it

You will need to remove the U-clamps that bolt the banjo to the spring bundle

Rear lift springs are the oldest and simplest type of suspension

Trust me, I have quite a bit of experience having done quite a bit of work on mine (including replacing a few + an entire bundle)

[l200]

Well its confirmed.... tomorrow I'll be doing my timing belt. Heading all the way to las lomas, to a mechanic i met a while ago, who use to work for DM, (that was my deciding factor),

so will try to take pics, if he allows me,......

hope all goes well!!!!

[CD4Accord]

4D56 fellas, where yourl been buying glow plugs recently?

I looking all over to get the NGK because its the only one that seems to last.... Instead im finding some brand named Kitahara (sp) which barely lasted a year for me last time....

Lange are supposed to import the NGK but no word from them on stock

[madman2961]

PT industrial in El Socorro i bought was like $345 for the four and they work perfect. and last longer than the ones i bought in the bamboo for $45 each. have them for like 6-7 months and starts easy in the morning when it is cold.

[muddgutts]

heys guys I am the owner of a k34 Turbo 4wd. I live in the Chag/Longdenville area and work in the sando area and is in need of a mechanic for engine and suspension maintenence two days ago i took out a faulty thermostat (still searching for new one) so I am running without it and I also changed the radiator cover but once the the vehicle is driven and the system is pressurized my both hoses are swelling. Any ideas on what that could be? once i pop the radiator cover the pressure subsides and bubbles in the over flow bottle. any help would be greatly appreciated

[l200]

Hi muddgutts..... hmmm, I'm not a mechanic, but if you have never changed your hoses do that first, especially if they are soft to squeeze, its the cheapest thing to do, I got my bottom hose from reputable in couva, with the identical bends, like the orignal, for only $45, the top should be less.

If that doesen't work, I will advise you to check your head gasket, to see if the gasket blow........

I had a friend who was driving and for no reason the hose going to the radiator, literally exploded while he was driving, we change it out with new ones, and when making a highway run the hose push out from the engine, twice. So he took it to the mech, and it turned out that the head had a crack, had to buy a new head.

If you looking for a good mechanic, and don't mind a little (long) drive, my mech is in las lomas, his number is in your pm. If you chech him tell him the guy wit de silver l200 from couva, give you de number.....Hope you get through

Well on a side note, finally finished my van, no mistakes an in a timely manner, the only problem was that the gates timing belt didn't line up with the pully, so the parts man told me that my engine was the older version and the pitch was slightly different, the belt lined up on part of the pully and started to 'ride up' on the teeth, so i had to go original,,,, it wasn't too bad, ordered the part from DM, and the delivered it directly to my mech in las lomas, wit no extra cost,

the van was completed the morning after......... evey thing came up to $1100 (mitsu belt + labour) The mech was efficient had all necessary tools, and if it wasn't for the belt I would have gotten the van back by lunch time, the same day.

[muddgutts]

Thanks alot. Tried calling him though but no answer, but I will keep trying. Never regretted having this van I just need to get a little more serious with the maintenance. Also this is my first problem with it.

[MadCrix]

another good mech is oodie ( dyno man) in couva
esperanz villlage (sp)

[venum]

strange about teh gates belt

u sure you got the right belt

I have gates timing, balance shaft belts and they fit PERFECT, just like OEM

have gates alternator (2) and power steering belt - no problem either