The Official Car Care Thread

[Karim Khan]

Stephen, nice pics man!

I see you have a wide variety of Meguiar's Products. You should write a review on some of the products you use.

I would recommend you get a plastic container to keep your Meguiar's collection and also get a rubber made folding table like one from price mart so don't have to put your stuff on the floor.

But keep posting pics man.

[Stephon.]

Thanks, yeah I was thinking of getting something to hold everything, I may check price smart again tomorrow or something, getting the microfibers towels to wash this week, hopefully next week Sat is another sunny day and I'm not busy.

@DSM_05 you need to remember that this is actually the first time I'm doing this, the towel was still in the pack though and I washed it out before I used it but I'll check. but yes I used a different towel for all the different products I've used. Thanks for the advice though

[Chimera]

i wash and polish last night...went imax to see a 10:30 avengers...rain take me just after 1 am about 5 mins from home

sourness yes..i eh washing n polishing for a next few weeks lol

[DSM_05]

Managed to do a detail today. Luckily the owner had a shaded area. Was not able to get much before pics (with minor swirls) due to cloudiness in the area. On completion of LSP, we got about a 10 minute window with some sunshine before clouds gathered again. Got some pics of DIRECT SUNLIGHT on the paint to show NO swirls. Started at 6:00 A.M., just finished - 6 hour detail.


Key notes:

- Owner is careful with washing, and only washes the car himself by hand. Car had minimal swirling to begin with.

- Steps include claying, then using Megs Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish/Glaze, mainly to fill any minor swirling, since we didn't see the need to use anything really abrasive on the car.

- owner did not want pics of his vehicle on 'tuner, so small snippets will have to do.

Products used:

Two buckets
Pinnacle MF Wash Mitt
Megs Wash mitt (lower half of car)
P21S Total Auto Wash
Daytona SpeedMaster Wheel Brush
Optimum ONR Wash (mixed with some Wolfgang Car Wash - Nemesis, if you're reading this, ONR can be used as an additive to existing washes).
Mothers Cal Gold Clay Kit
Megs DC Polish Step 2
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Griots Spray-On Car Wash (used as a bug remover for the front bumper)
Rain Clear Glass Scrub and "Sealer"
TurtleWax ICE(used for rubber trim)
Wolfgang Plastik Surface Sealant - for headlights


APPLICATORS and CLOTHS

GRIOTS Terry Cotton Applicators for polish
Pinnacle Yellow Foam applicators for sealant
EuroW all purpose MF towels for buffing purposes

Here's a before of the wheels. Can't tell how dirty it is, right?




Here's a 50/50 after soaking with P21S, and agitation using the Daytona:




FYI, that's only 1 weeks worth of brake dust!


Brake calipers have also seen some heavy dusting:


Attempted to clean w/o removing wheels. Next time around, maybe we'll remove the wheels and scrub down the caliper more thoroughly:



2 bucket wash method. This is the most cost effective way to avoid swirls. The blue bucket holds clean suds. Mitt is "loaded" with soap, and the req'd area washed. Once the mitt is dirty, it is rinsed in the BLACK bucket, so as not to contaminate the soapy water. A second rinse of the mitt with a hose may be used if you're daring. Then the process is repeated:


When washing, you should always work your way from TOP downwards.

When washing the car, the Pinnacle (yellow) mitt was used for the bonnet, roof, and top of the trunk. It was used for the top half of the fenders and doors. A second mitt was used for the dirtiest portions of the car i.e. the lowest portions:

^^Here you can see my washing "cut-off" line




here are some final closeups of the paint when we got that brief period of direct sunlight. Direct sunlight is a true test for swirling!

Look at how clear the paint is around the reflection of the sun. NO hazing or cobwebbing scratches whatsoever:










Glass was detailed with Rain Clear Glass Scrub, and Rain Clear "sealant" liquid. Tight beading of water after:

[nemesis]

Not bad. I like your "If you're reading this part".
Questions :
1. Did you use the P21S wash only for wheels or did you do anything in the engine bay, or use it on the exhaust etc?
2. You doh find those daytona brushes only suit wheels with wide spokes and small brakes? They annoy the life outta me on my car. Have stopped using them on my personal vehicle except for the fenders. But they do suit some cars I guess.
3. You did all polishing by hand? I see you list the griots pads for polishing, which would mean you used a polish meant for a machine by hand. That usually means it wouldn't break down completely OR you did REAL rubbing. Which be it? And why?
4. That glass scrub better than the AG glass polish?

Stephon : After reading this thread, and you went and bought all that stuff, how could you NOT KNOW that you shouldn't put your cloths on the ground. That just doesn't make sense.
Anyway, assuming something happened and you didn't realize or whatever, here's my suggestions :
1. When you're getting good wash buckets, get at least one with a cover and leave your wash mitts for the body of the car in it.
2. For storage of cloths and products get those clear plastic storage containers. Clear is better since when you move to having more than one you can see what you are looking for before opening. If you do indeed reach the point of having too many things. Ideally what you want for storage is dust free and no contamination of products.
3. And Finally, but very important : If you don't have the time or are tired or not motivated, doh waste whatever time you do have. Because unless you're very certain you don't need a certain step before, skipping them will probably bother you just because it was wrong and you'll just end up doing it all over That'll waste both time and product. If you don't feel like doing a full process sometime, just do a good wash, and check the paint to see what is really required for when you do have the time. Don't worry, it happens to everyone sometime that they check the paint and then say "That's too much to do today".
Also, thin plastic bag or vinyl glove after washing, rapid detailer or soapy water, and run your fingers and palm across the car. You won't necessarily hear when you need claying, but you can always feel it. You only really hear it when the place is really quiet and the car is in serious serious need of claying. At least that has been my experience.

[Allergic2BunnyEars]

My current setup.


Microfibers from Pricesmart.



Usually I have been washing my car from the top down with Mothers and drying with a separate microfiber. Washing wheels with another microfiber with just water. I use armor all tyre foam to clean tyres after washing excess dirt.

I would like to follow the Mothers Car Wash with this:





I use one bucket filled with car wash and rinse with a hose outside of the bucket.

Questions:

1. Any problems with my current and proposed setup?

2. Do I really need two buckets?

3. Does waxing protect against stone chips on the bonnet?



Car is new. Made in January this year and owned since the 3rd week of April and already there are a couple stone chips on the bonnet and one on the leading lip of the front bumper.

[Aaron 2NR]

do waxes do not protect against stone chips.....

turtle wax ice is crap...

[DSM_05]

^^Correct. TWax ICE is real toots. I got a durability of one week max on that. I only use it to shine up door and rubber trim (doesn't stain).

1. Any problems with my current and proposed setup?

2. Do I really need two buckets?

3. Does waxing protect against stone chips on the bonnet?

YES your plan is decent, but it could be better; you should use a wash mitt to wash. Consider getting any one of those "noodle" microfibre wash mitts that any parts store has. Most are good enough....no need to spend extra dough where you don't need to.

YES if you want to do it correctly, you NEED two buckets. There is no if and but about it. If you find using two buckets is too hard, then detailing is not for you, since this is the most elementary and preliminary step of any good detailing regimen (Nemesis, don't start with me on this....I know you want to ).

To combat stone chips, you need a rockblocking clear film, from 3M for example. Search for a "3Mclear bra". VW paint doesn't hold up that well to rod rash at all from what I've seen. Other euro paints hold up MUCH much better.

Not bad. I like your "If you're reading this part".
Questions :
1. Did you use the P21S wash only for wheels or did you do anything in the engine bay, or use it on the exhaust etc?
2. You doh find those daytona brushes only suit wheels with wide spokes and small brakes? They annoy the life outta me on my car. Have stopped using them on my personal vehicle except for the fenders. But they do suit some cars I guess.
3. You did all polishing by hand? I see you list the griots pads for polishing, which would mean you used a polish meant for a machine by hand. That usually means it wouldn't break down completely OR you did REAL rubbing. Which be it? And why?
4. That glass scrub better than the AG glass polish?

Nemesis,

1) Yes, We used P21S in the enginebay as well. See below:



Added to the original post.

2) I use the Daytona Jnr, which is smaller. But for small crevices, I will have to resort to a smaller brush/toothbrush.

3) Yes polishing was all done by hand. As I said, the owner is very careful with his car, and also uses the two bucket wash method. He's owned the car from new, so over the three or so years of ownership, it hasn't picked up a ton of swirls. The MEgs DC polish does more hiding than correction, since it's more of a glaze that a pure abrasive polish. But it works really well, and fast. I dare say, faster than AG UDS. Plus the DC step 2 is very easy to work with.

4) Well AG glass polish is like an AIO - cleaner and sealant in one. I have AG glass polish, but not too impressed with it. The rain clear glass scrub and sealer is easier to work with, and by golly that sealer lasts for MONTHS.

Stephon : After reading this thread, and you went and bought all that stuff, how could you NOT KNOW that you shouldn't put your cloths on the ground. That just doesn't make sense.

My sentiments exactly. Simple common sense should prevail. But some readers of this thread have fallen into the "marketing gimmicks" that are being pushed around, and are buying products left and right, without understanding how to use them properly.

Start simple, keep it simple. Don't buy what you can't use. If you aren't willing to master the two bucket wash method, or keep MF towels clean, then leave detailing to others, since no matter how much product you buy, your car will still look like it had a Squezy wash with a pot scrub.....when seen in the sun.

[S_2NR]

didnt do sh1t this weekend wrt washing cars.
alot of rain forecasted for this week.

[nemesis]

Turtle not so good, and no it won't help with stone chips.
If you have to use only one product try the NXT or SRP.
Also I find those microfibers only suit some uses.

Stephon, forgot before, but wash the water magnet 2-3 times in the machine and it will start to work better. Still, they only work properly on cars that are still beading well so keep the protection up.

DSM : Good to see that the P21S worked well on the engine also. Always wondered how it would hold up with those uncovered electrical parts. Did you cover them btw? I don't bother to cover anything when I do my engine.
I have both daytona brushes and the Jr. Is the same thing. Just doesn't work on my wheels. I use a paintbrush for the spokes. Works quite well. Do you use the Jr brush for the engine also?
The AG glass polish I haven't found to do sealing very well. But the Rain Clear doesn't seem to last months either. Well, it would last mths if it doesn't rain too much. But lets say it rains 3 times a week, I'll re-apply every two weeks or so. Not too bad, but I'm thinking when I run out I'm going for the aquapel.

Btw, anyone thinking of trying Auto Finesse? They're supposed to be starting sales in the US in June, which is about now. Nice packaging and good reviews.. probably just marketing, but might be worth a try.

[aidan]

Stephon. nice work man!

Can anyone tell me how effective the water magnet is for drying? Or what is a good cloth for drying. I'm fed up of using those chamois from pricesmart, cuz I have to wring it out a million times. Looking for an alternative.

Where can I get 303 products to buy? Did some reading on the advice given in this thread about it and it seems that 303 is awesome! So I would like to try the aerospace protectant.

[nemesis]

Water Magnets work if you keep the run-off on your car up to mark. Basically it has to be well waxed/sealed all the time. I still use this cloth depending on the vehicle I'm washing. It is a good cheap step to the microfibre drying from small chamois. You will still need to wring it sometime, but probably not as much.
Most drying towels are quite large which makes them a little difficult to keep off the ground when drying the sides unless you fold them.
I currently use the Swissvax. Don't think I'll change from it anytime soon. Same area as the Water Magnet but significantly softer and is more absorbant. Only problem, the price. Could almost get 4 Water magnets for the price of one Wunder towel. I personally don't like the ones that are double layered, like the Cobra. Just don't like how they feel. But they do work I guess. I still swipe when I dry, not pat, and I believe those are more suited to pat drying.
I've heard good reviews on the AG drying cloth too but have never used it.

[Trini Hookah]

Those looking for father's day gifts, I saw Price Club stocked up some Meguiar's gift bundles, priced at $234-$266.

[dok_tec]

i dont like the water magnet either, i use a german leather chamois my dad has been using since the 90's lol, it does no damage to the paint and works great

[DSM_05]

Water Magnets work if you keep the run-off on your car up to mark. Basically it has to be well waxed/sealed all the time. I still use this cloth depending on the vehicle I'm washing. It is a good cheap step to the microfibre drying from small chamois. You will still need to wring it sometime, but probably not as much.
Most drying towels are quite large which makes them a little difficult to keep off the ground when drying the sides unless you fold them.

I agree with Nemesis as well.

Water Magnet is good....but not the best.

The Cobra Guzzler drying cloth is teh awesomness. Griots drying towel is superb as well.

i use a german leather chamois my dad has been using since the 90's lol, it does no damage to the paint and works great

Well most won't damage the paint. The thing is to make sure and keep all cloths CLEAN.

However, with a chamois, since it's a "flat" cloth with no "weave".....there's no buffer by which the chammy can trap any residual dirt on a spot you may have missed during washing. So, if that dirt gets onto the cloth, it gets dragged back around on the paint = swirl.

If you're sure the car is 100% cleaned well, yeah sure it's great.


Right now I'm using the AG synthetic chammy. I like it.

[crazychinee]

What's a good wheel brush? My fingers hurt , even if I use a large sponge and try and get into it.

I always dread the wheel cleaning part of the exercise.

[shogun]

^I always seem to get scratched or cut, trying to clean between the caliper and rim. need one of those brushes myself.

[DSM_05]

^^Did you all scroll up to see the brush I took a picture of? The one which was listed by name?

Again:



Daytona SpeedMaster Wheel Brush.

It comes in a regular size or Junior.

I recommend the "Junior" since it fits better into smaller openings for more complex wheel patterns.

ANd unlike other branded brushes, it has soft bristles right around the "stem", so cleaning hard to reach areas is alot easier.

[gastly369]

anyone know where i can get these locally ?

[trvs]

Laughlin and de Gannes has the black box.

Not sure about the wolfgang.

[TriniGT]

Where can I get Ultimate compound in the east to buy or have a number for Sameera's?

[nemesis]

Daytona brush is good for behind spokes and fenders etc. Does not suit small spokes though.

Is that turtle wax black box stuff any better than their other products?

DSM you like the cobra? Don't find it a bit bulky to really use easily?

[aidan]

Where can I get Ultimate compound in the east to buy?

By a auto supplies shop in Aranguez. (Not sure if what the name nah, I think is Sasree's auto supplies). Is a little after wicked wings if you heading north on Aranguez road. It's on the left hand side. Its downstairs a kinda newish looking building and they is always have some hilux rims outside lean up on the glass. They have almost the entire meguiars lineup, got the ultimate protectant from them friday.

[gastly369]

Laughlin and de Gannes has the black box.

Not sure about the wolfgang.

thanks man will check

[Rainman]

Plan for this weekend:
Defects: Water spots and minor swirling

Wash with Chemical guys citrus wash, microfiber mitt, and foam gun
Stoners tarminator for some spots on the bottom half that have tar on them
Meguiars smooth surface claybar and mothers detail spray to lube it
PC 7424XP with white CCS pad and meguiars UC; may use the orange pad if those defects are stubborn.
Seal with Klasse AIO
Top off with sonus acrylic glanz
My rims are clear coated so i'm using the citrus wash on them with the Mothers wheel and tire brush, then its klasse aio to seal.

[trvs]

Good plan there man.

What color paint?

Check these Basic Car Wash Techniques

[tr1ad]

Guys, I need some advice. I have a Suzuki SX4, which has the black trim right around the body. What can I use on it? I tired Mothers protectant, and back to black, but it goes away after a week or a little more and wash with water only. What could I use to keep it looking black and is available locally so I can get it by weekend.
Also, should I wax first and then handle the trim? The trim is a bit annoying to clean since some product always gets on the paint. Is that a problem?

Thanks.

Got it today! Got it in a store on Aranguez Main road. I think the name of the place is Sameera's auto supplies or sumting so. They have EVERYTHING MEGUIARS. Wish I walked with more cash.

wish i could get the time to head over there and grab me some of this
the roof rack and trim around the fenders on the forester are dull now

[trvs]

Sasrena Auto Supplies is the correct name.

[TriniGT]

Yep Sasrena Auto Supplies - 675-1753, checking them tomorrow, thanks all for the help. Will take some before and after pics of the carbon bonnet to see how the ultimate compound works.

[DSM_05]

^^If I were you, I would try a milder polish first. But hey...whatever floats your boat man.

Once you finish using the Compound, try to use a WAX to finish off. Leaving the surface un treated after the compound will result in haziness returning, especially if the Carbon Hood you're working on is a gel coat finish (many detailers don't distinguish between gel coats and clear coats).

Also, Ultimate Compound may be too aggressive for a gel coat carbon hood. But, I have no idea what your car has. If the hood is cleared, then you have little to worry about.