Building a house in Trinidad

[*KRONIK*]

The best thing is to rent a hand operated trenching tool. I have no idea who has one available. Otherwise, a drainage shovel and a 5ft digging bar will do it. A louchette will work instead of the bar but not as easily.

Fellaz

I need to dig a trench about 4" wide and 18" deep for 500 feet?
Any recommendation for a tool that can work?

I need to lay pipes for a long service water connection

I never saw any of those trenchers anywhere.
That was actually my 1st thought.
I even asked my padna who rents tool if he came across any and he said no.

The other thing is that i have cut 2 of the neighbours driveways and put in 2" galvanised steel pipes to run the pvc.
So i may need a road saw too (i can get that if needed)

I was paying some guys to do the work, but if a trencer was working out cheaper, i would have to consider that too.

[worksux101]

He could also explore the use of the Spancast precast wall system. Everything is locally made.

Pretty cool, was thinking about the clearance and alignment issues too, but it have enough overlap in the slot there to accommodate a fair amount.


I would like to see how the reinforcement for the slabs though.

Anyone actually used this? Seriously considering for use as a border wall

[rspann]

It's popular in the US, all along the highways and in large buildings etc. The cost here might be prohibitive though, anybody has an idea of the cost?

[pugboy]

yes the clay brick is my concern, they dont want washers/exposed bolts inside.

just saw that there is an exposed big ibeam running horizontally a few feet above
I am going to weld vertical and diagonal supports to that beam. Should do the trick.

The bracket looks solid. Your idea to add a floor support would certainly help.

Edit: I believe that the problem is not the shear strength (downward force) of the bracket and fasteners. The problem is the pull-out resistance of the clay block itself. The static load is only 50 pounds max.

If the clay block attachment fails, it will most likely just pop out completely. I would go through the wall.

[worksux101]

Was planning on purchasing the simtek line from Home Depot and shipping here...didn’t realise we’ve got similar products available locally...

[pugboy]

ceramic trinidad adverstises them, right by the traffice lights before movietowne they are on the piece of grass out there

Was planning on purchasing the simtek line from Home Depot and shipping here...didn’t realise we’ve got similar products available locally...

[adnj]

The best thing is to rent a hand operated trenching tool. I have no idea who has one available. Otherwise, a drainage shovel and a 5ft digging bar will do it. A louchette will work instead of the bar but not as easily.

Fellaz

I need to dig a trench about 4" wide and 18" deep for 500 feet?
Any recommendation for a tool that can work?

I need to lay pipes for a long service water connection

I never saw any of those trenchers anywhere.
That was actually my 1st thought.
I even asked my padna who rents tool if he came across any and he said no.

The other thing is that i have cut 2 of the neighbours driveways and put in 2" galvanised steel pipes to run the pvc.
So i may need a road saw too (i can get that if needed)

I was paying some guys to do the work, but if a trencer was working out cheaper, i would have to consider that too.

I have seen contractors use them here but not for rent. They are also available for a tractor PTO but I have no idea if your lot conditions will allow for a tractor. If you can fit a tractor onto your lot, the operator can use an 8 inch trenching bucket. There are people around that know how to do it. I once saw a narrow trench dug with a length of angle iron bolted onto a Bobcat's bucket.

Driveways are seldom more than 5 inches thick. A gasoline powered concrete saw will do the work. If you're careful you could use a 9 inch electric grinder with a diamond blade, if needed. Snap parallel chalk lines as a guide.

Also, if you are laying out a supply line you may want to consider using MDPE. It's the same blue water line line that WASA uses. It's more expensive but less labor to install now and less trouble later on.

[*KRONIK*]

The best thing is to rent a hand operated trenching tool. I have no idea who has one available. Otherwise, a drainage shovel and a 5ft digging bar will do it. A louchette will work instead of the bar but not as easily.

Fellaz

I need to dig a trench about 4" wide and 18" deep for 500 feet?
Any recommendation for a tool that can work?

I need to lay pipes for a long service water connection

I never saw any of those trenchers anywhere.
That was actually my 1st thought.
I even asked my padna who rents tool if he came across any and he said no.

The other thing is that i have cut 2 of the neighbours driveways and put in 2" galvanised steel pipes to run the pvc.
So i may need a road saw too (i can get that if needed)

I was paying some guys to do the work, but if a trencer was working out cheaper, i would have to consider that too.

I have seen contractors use them here but not for rent. They are also available for a tractor PTO but I have no idea if your lot conditions will allow for a tractor. If you can fit a tractor onto your lot, the operator can use an 8 inch trenching bucket. There are people around that know how to do it. I once saw a narrow trench dug with a length of angle iron bolted onto a Bobcat's bucket.

Driveways are seldom more than 5 inches thick. A gasoline powered concrete saw will do the work. If you're careful you could use a 9 inch electric grinder with a diamond blade, if needed. Snap parallel chalk lines as a guide.

Also, if you are laying out a supply line you may want to consider using MDPE. It's the same blue water line line that WASA uses. It's more expensive but less labor to install now and less trouble later on.

Thanks for the input.
Let me explain the situation a little better
I applied for a yard tap connection for a plot of land.
The land is in a side street off another side street from the main road.
I was unaware that the WASA main stopped 500 feet from the land and all the residents use a long service connection.
So the wasa guy told me i need to build the yard trough and run my own 3/4" pipe from the land to the spot he indicated, the road to the land is 100ft, the next 400 is on the major road.
The easy solution for me is to cut the major road and run the pipe along the road on the other side, as there are no houses there, the wasa man say it have to run on "my" side and they will cut the road to do the connection.
"My" side have 3 driveways.
I was looking it and it seems only 1 will need to cut the others are far enough inside to dig between the road and the concrete. I will put the steel pipe in and cast it still tho, for safety.
I will see what the price difference is between the pvc and the mdpe.
I can get a gas saw with the concrete blade as a buddy of mine has a few in his tool rental store.
I was just wondering what the more cost effective option will be:
-Pay that labour to have it hand dug?
Or
-1 day rental of the equipment?

[sMASH]

if it have houses, and thier lines buried too, and u cant identify the other lines, u might burst them inadvertantly with that machine.

[*KRONIK*]

if it have houses, and thier lines buried too, and u cant identify the other lines, u might burst them inadvertantly with that machine.

Good point

[sMASH]

I see thing like dat.. Some lines not even a good 6 inches below surface.. So take ur time, and walking with nuff compression coupling. Unless water does go regular so u could use collar and cement

[adnj]

There is supposed to be a 2 inch service line along the easement for multiple properties. The WASA application should have resulted in an assessment to add the line for all of the affected properties.

That's a complex situation. PVC may be best just in case someone else digs into your line without seeing the red sand and caution tape in the trench.

If the driveways aren't too wide and the soil isn't too rocky, you can try hydraulic trenching to keep from cutting and patching concrete. It's not perfect but it works. I did it a few times under my own driveways and sidewalks. But as always YMMV.

https://youtu.be/xUdgZRJTVNk

[*KRONIK*]

I see thing like dat.. Some lines not even a good 6 inches below surface.. So take ur time, and walking with nuff compression coupling. Unless water does go regular so u could use collar and cement

Will tell the guys to be cautious with the work

Good looking out

[*KRONIK*]

There is supposed to be a 2 inch service line along the easement for multiple properties. The WASA application should have resulted in an assessment to add the line for all of the affected properties.

That's a complex situation. PVC may be best just in case someone else digs into your line without seeing the red sand and caution tape in the trench.

If the driveways aren't too wide and the soil isn't too rocky, you can try hydraulic trenching to keep from cutting and patching concrete. It's not perfect but it works. I did it a few times under my own driveways and sidewalks. But as always YMMV.

https://youtu.be/xUdgZRJTVNk

From what i was told, the wasa main line is a 2" line.
The wasa guy says i'm literally on the mark to get that connection. 2feet more and he would have had to cancel the application.
So i'm trying to follow the instructions so as not to create any issues.

Will see how it goes during the week

[adnj]

^^ No criticism of you or your situation.

It's unfortunate that you and your neighbors have to do all that work. It's just an example of development outpacing infrastructure.

[pugboy]

Many streets in Aranguez used to have mains only on the main roads running north-south
Everybody would have pvc lines running east-west in the box drains to the mains
During the byelection in unc time they ran mains and regularized the connections.
They never removed the pvc lines though still in the box drains causing debris clogging

[carluva]

Kronik,

Given what you have described, id recommend being a bit cautious. Since you have such a long run crossing properties and areas you do not own, you should consider using the mdpe or the blue water lines and sleeve them in the galvanized pipe at the driveway crossings. At the driveway crossings, as they are not yours, after laying the line, cover back with some excavated material. On this lay a bed of concrete tiles then backfill with red sand to the surface, compact and have a good base for reinstatement of the concrete driveways. That way your lines are safeguarded against any future work in that area that would result in excavation in that zone.

The blue line is also easier to repair if damaged... a compression fitting and that's it. Repairs can be done on the run without having to lock off water. If pvc pipe is damaged, water needs to be locked off and then solvent cement needed. More difficult repair.

If you insist on using pvc pipe, use schedule 40 for the run, nothing else.

Remember that galvanized pipe will rot from the inside once buried And at the threaded ends. This rot will make the line weaker and easier to crack with a blow. Consider sch 40 or even sch 80 pipe for the sleeves.

I know it sounds like overkill but its 500 ft of your line being run to a wasa connection so unless wasa is taking ownership of this line, they wont repair anything if its damaged. So better to protect your investment and do it right the first time spending a lil more on the front end.

[*KRONIK*]

Kronik,

Given what you have described, id recommend being a bit cautious. Since you have such a long run crossing properties and areas you do not own, you should consider using the mdpe or the blue water lines and sleeve them in the galvanized pipe at the driveway crossings. At the driveway crossings, as they are not yours, after laying the line, cover back with some excavated material. On this lay a bed of concrete tiles then backfill with red sand to the surface, compact and have a good base for reinstatement of the concrete driveways. That way your lines are safeguarded against any future work in that area that would result in excavation in that zone.

The blue line is also easier to repair if damaged... a compression fitting and that's it. Repairs can be done on the run without having to lock off water. If pvc pipe is damaged, water needs to be locked off and then solvent cement needed. More difficult repair.

If you insist on using pvc pipe, use schedule 40 for the run, nothing else.

Remember that galvanized pipe will rot from the inside once buried And at the threaded ends. This rot will make the line weaker and easier to crack with a blow. Consider sch 40 or even sch 80 pipe for the sleeves.

I know it sounds like overkill but its 500 ft of your line being run to a wasa connection so unless wasa is taking ownership of this line, they wont repair anything if its damaged. So better to protect your investment and do it right the first time spending a lil more on the front end.

I am going to look for the blue pipe tomorrow to see what the price is like.

I was planning to bury the steel pipes and replace the excavated area with cement as you mentioned.

The wasa guy said they only maintain the 1st 40 feet from the main. The rest is mine to take care of. So he told me to put at least 3 lock offs along the way incase i need to do any repairs.

Good idea with the sch 40 and sch 80 pipes.

[carluva]

There is supposed to be a 2 inch service line along the easement for multiple properties. The WASA application should have resulted in an assessment to add the line for all of the affected properties.

That's a complex situation. PVC may be best just in case someone else digs into your line without seeing the red sand and caution tape in the trench.

If the driveways aren't too wide and the soil isn't too rocky, you can try hydraulic trenching to keep from cutting and patching concrete. It's not perfect but it works. I did it a few times under my own driveways and sidewalks. But as always YMMV.

https://youtu.be/xUdgZRJTVNk

Intesting... seen this before online, wanted to try but didnt.

Have you used this for conduit for wire as shown in the video or for running a water line. The latter was my need.

[adnj]

The blue line is also easier to repair if damaged... a compression fitting and that's it. Repairs can be done on the run without having to lock off water. If pvc pipe is damaged, water needs to be locked off and then solvent cement needed. More difficult repair.

If you insist on using pvc pipe, use schedule 40 for the run, nothing else.

Remember that galvanized pipe will rot from the inside once buried And at the threaded ends. This rot will make the line weaker and easier to crack with a blow. Consider sch 40 or even sch 80 pipe for the sleeves.

Sch 40 2 inch PVC is acceptable sleeving for a roadway if properly backfilled as described.

PVC has compression fittings that are widely available also.

[adnj]

Intesting... seen this before online, wanted to try but didnt.

Have you used this for conduit for wire as shown in the video or for running a water line. The latter was my need.

I have used it for both. I ran 1-1/2" Sch 40 as a sleeve. I drove the ends with a demolition hammer.

I've wet the ground and used a demo hammer to drive grounding rods, also.

[carluva]

Didnt the ends of the PVC pipe get damaged with the constant force of the demo hammer?

And was the sch 40 PVC rigid enough to push through the earth under the driveway without flexing, cracking or breaking?

[wingnut]

Kronik,

Given what you have described, id recommend being a bit cautious. Since you have such a long run crossing properties and areas you do not own, you should consider using the mdpe or the blue water lines and sleeve them in the galvanized pipe at the driveway crossings. At the driveway crossings, as they are not yours, after laying the line, cover back with some excavated material. On this lay a bed of concrete tiles then backfill with red sand to the surface, compact and have a good base for reinstatement of the concrete driveways. That way your lines are safeguarded against any future work in that area that would result in excavation in that zone.

The blue line is also easier to repair if damaged... a compression fitting and that's it. Repairs can be done on the run without having to lock off water. If pvc pipe is damaged, water needs to be locked off and then solvent cement needed. More difficult repair.

If you insist on using pvc pipe, use schedule 40 for the run, nothing else.

Remember that galvanized pipe will rot from the inside once buried And at the threaded ends. This rot will make the line weaker and easier to crack with a blow. Consider sch 40 or even sch 80 pipe for the sleeves.

I know it sounds like overkill but its 500 ft of your line being run to a wasa connection so unless wasa is taking ownership of this line, they wont repair anything if its damaged. So better to protect your investment and do it right the first time spending a lil more on the front end.

This is some great advice, also if you can find it locally get a roll of "water line buried tape" similar to caution tape roll or just use the caution tape which might be easier to find locally and bury that after back filling the line directly above it for the entire length. Hopefully if someone is digging they catch the tape first and realise there is a line buried and save you some headache.

[rexsmith]

what is the smallest foundation you can build for a 40ft by 32ft flat house?

[adnj]

Didnt the ends of the PVC pipe get damaged with the constant force of the demo hammer?

And was the sch 40 PVC rigid enough to push through the earth under the driveway without flexing, cracking or breaking?

It depends on the soil type, water pressure, how hard you're hitting, the distance that you're covering, and how straight you want the run. You will probably want to use some kind of impact cap to protect the pipe head from mushrooming.

I used Sch 40 steel with an electric demolition hammer. I have also used a similar setup to drive 1-1/2" (1.9" OD) and larger steel fence posts with both a manual and a PTO post driver. I've driven earthing rods using an SDS impact hammer.

There's no guarantee that it will work. If it doesn't work, draw it out and try a spot close by.

[adnj]

you should consider using the mdpe or the blue water lines and sleeve them in the galvanized pipe at the driveway crossings. At the driveway crossings, as they are not yours, after laying the line, cover back with some excavated material. On this lay a bed of concrete tiles then backfill with red sand to the surface, compact and have a good base for reinstatement of the concrete driveways.

I believe that what you meant to say was to lay the pipe in a bed of sand, cover with sand and tamp. Then backfill with excavated material and compact.

The sand helps to keep the pipe from shifting or settling.

[carluva]

Good point.

[carluva]

Didnt the ends of the PVC pipe get damaged with the constant force of the demo hammer?

And was the sch 40 PVC rigid enough to push through the earth under the driveway without flexing, cracking or breaking?

It depends on the soil type, water pressure, how hard you're hitting, the distance that you're covering, and how straight you want the run. You will probably want to use some kind of impact cap to protect the pipe head from mushrooming.

I used Sch 40 steel with an electric demolition hammer. I have also used a similar setup to drive 1-1/2" (1.9" OD) and larger steel fence posts with both a manual and a PTO post driver. I've driven earthing rods using an SDS impact hammer.

There's no guarantee that it will work. If it doesn't work, draw it out and try a spot close by.

Will try this method. Have a pipe or two i would like to lay under a 6" slab driveway.

[pugboy]

Put up water heater bracket today
Added vertical support

[rebound]

That is overkill there