HELP ME !!!!!I'm sick AND tired of my car's A/C :(

[skylinechild]

it recycles.. but i think i know what i gotta do...
im gonna get foam spray n foam the engine bay holes where wirees are..and get those foam coat to go around the ac pipes

I'd recommend against doing the can of foam thing.
this actually is meant to seal drywall and it expands / contracts -
there are two types - one for interior and the other exterior.

if I read you correctly you want to seal up the firewall where the engine wires and such pass thru.??
if so I'd recommend not. reason is if you need to get back to those wires...to do troubleshooting / engine swap....you gonna be in a tight spot.

some holes where nothing passes thru you can use it - if u need to use those holes you can drill out the foam

other holes where the electrical wires pass thru , use silicone sealer instead...

do not use( the foam) on the lines that go from the engine room to inside the car.
if you do this and you want to service the lines guess what - it cant be removed - you'd end up damaging the lines and buying / making new lines.

2nd option is better - when installing a house air conditioner they wrap the copper tubing in the foam jacket and use tie straps to secure it to the copper tubing.

older air condition systems - ones that uses R12 has this on the lines.
our b12 had it.

caution be sure you insulate the correct lines - high pressure / low pressure .
not ALL the lines need to get the foam jacket insulation on it.

consult a qualified Ac technician

forgot to mention smokey GTi said it - ensure your ac is set to recirculate.
but also the HVAC unit itself may not be sealing off properly - ie the blender doors....

the blender doors are little flaps that open / close when you select fresh air vs recirculating air.

to check the blender doors the entire dash will need to be removed from the car.
as well as the cowl outside by the windshield wipers....

hey that may be my problem...i forgot to say this...he put me in car and said see if i smelll any sweet ting...he went by wiper and dem n spray perfumes and i get the sent...he say it pulling in outside air... :O

so your found your problem... the entire HVAC system needs to come out...to check the blender doors assembly -but the entire dash needs to come out first...steering column only has to drop down

and also the cowl - only the wiper needs to come out from the outside.

there two types of assemblies- manual and automatic.
manual ones are ones with a lever you slide from the recirculating to fresh air.- usually found on cheaper models. the lever is attached to a cable and the other end is attached to the blender door flap

automatic ones are found on the same car but the high end models..these simply carry a button for recirculating vs fresh air a motor simply pulls (or pushes) the cable to operate the blender doors or the motor may be mounted directly onto the outside body of the HVAC unit with little gears or levers attached to it and also to the different doors.

these may also have a temp sensor built into the dash and a digital display...
you set the Ac temp to 24 degrees....it senses the temp inside the cabin a wayy above 24 degrees....blower motor cones on full blast to cool inside the car quickly...

once it reaches the 24 degrees it trips off the compressor and monitors the temp inside the cabin via the temp sensor on the dash. if it climbs to say 26 degrees...it automatically trips on the compressor and blows cold air in slowly until it comes back to 24...then shuts off again

any Ac tech who tells you that you dont need the fresh air option...and just wants to condemn the blender door assembly to make it recirculate air.....run from that place one time.

[konartis]

i had this issue a really long time with a b13 A/c, got scammed by these AC men just changing everything and not doing anything, they dont know their work and its always a trial and error with them...i ended up by a mechanic who knew a little abit about AC and he changed out the compressor with a almera one and re-gased the system with the new gas, the condensor infront the car, i sprayed with purple blaster and cleaned it out, the AC began working really well, but i accepted the fact that the ac would not work like others, on hot days, i open the widows and let the air out then start the ac, helps also to have a good tint.

[skylinechild]

i had this issue a really long time with a b13 A/c, got scammed by these AC men just changing everything and not doing anything, they dont know their work and its always a trial and error with them...i ended up by a mechanic who knew a little abit about AC and he changed out the compressor with a almera one and re-gased the system with the new gas, the condensor infront the car, i sprayed with purple blaster and cleaned it out, the AC began working really well, but i accepted the fact that the ac would not work like others, on hot days, i open the widows and let the air out then start the ac, helps also to have a good tint.

i hope you changed out the condenser as well...
R12 uses a serpentine condenser...
R134 uses a cross flow condenser.

[Abraham2nd]

it recycles.. but i think i know what i gotta do...
im gonna get foam spray n foam the engine bay holes where wirees are..and get those foam coat to go around the ac pipes

I'd recommend against doing the can of foam thing.
this actually is meant to seal drywall and it expands / contracts -
there are two types - one for interior and the other exterior.

if I read you correctly you want to seal up the firewall where the engine wires and such pass thru.??
if so I'd recommend not. reason is if you need to get back to those wires...to do troubleshooting / engine swap....you gonna be in a tight spot.

some holes where nothing passes thru you can use it - if u need to use those holes you can drill out the foam

other holes where the electrical wires pass thru , use silicone sealer instead...

do not use( the foam) on the lines that go from the engine room to inside the car.
if you do this and you want to service the lines guess what - it cant be removed - you'd end up damaging the lines and buying / making new lines.

2nd option is better - when installing a house air conditioner they wrap the copper tubing in the foam jacket and use tie straps to secure it to the copper tubing.

older air condition systems - ones that uses R12 has this on the lines.
our b12 had it.

caution be sure you insulate the correct lines - high pressure / low pressure .
not ALL the lines need to get the foam jacket insulation on it.

consult a qualified Ac technician

forgot to mention smokey GTi said it - ensure your ac is set to recirculate.
but also the HVAC unit itself may not be sealing off properly - ie the blender doors....

the blender doors are little flaps that open / close when you select fresh air vs recirculating air.

to check the blender doors the entire dash will need to be removed from the car.
as well as the cowl outside by the windshield wipers....

hey that may be my problem...i forgot to say this...he put me in car and said see if i smelll any sweet ting...he went by wiper and dem n spray perfumes and i get the sent...he say it pulling in outside air... :O

so your found your problem... the entire HVAC system needs to come out...to check the blender doors assembly -but the entire dash needs to come out first...steering column only has to drop down

and also the cowl - only the wiper needs to come out from the outside.

there two types of assemblies- manual and automatic.
manual ones are ones with a lever you slide from the recirculating to fresh air.- usually found on cheaper models. the lever is attached to a cable and the other end is attached to the blender door flap

automatic ones are found on the same car but the high end models..these simply carry a button for recirculating vs fresh air a motor simply pulls (or pushes) the cable to operate the blender doors or the motor may be mounted directly onto the outside body of the HVAC unit with little gears or levers attached to it and also to the different doors.

these may also have a temp sensor built into the dash and a digital display...
you set the Ac temp to 24 degrees....it senses the temp inside the cabin a wayy above 24 degrees....blower motor cones on full blast to cool inside the car quickly...

once it reaches the 24 degrees it trips off the compressor and monitors the temp inside the cabin via the temp sensor on the dash. if it climbs to say 26 degrees...it automatically trips on the compressor and blows cold air in slowly until it comes back to 24...then shuts off again

any Ac tech who tells you that you dont need the fresh air option...and just wants to condemn the blender door assembly to make it recirculate air.....run from that place one time.

Hey. well idk but theres a slide for circulate air and recycle..its stuck on recycle.. it WONT let me slide it..it may reach 1/4 way and pull back like something is jaming it..
btw...can i do this myself? im really tired of spending money and not doing it right ;(

[skylinechild]

Hey. well idk but theres a slide for circulate air and recycle..its stuck on recycle.. it WONT let me slide it..it may reach 1/4 way and pull back like something is jaming it..
btw...can i do this myself? im really tired of spending money and not doing it right ;(

if you got the slide for recirculating air vs fresh air then your ac control looks like this one in the pic



there are two models a manual one- shown above and automatic one
see below



the entire complete dashboard will have to be removed...in order to remove the HVAC unit to check the blender doors.

you can do it - provided you know what youre doing...and have help to remove the dashboard.
once dashboard is out you should be able to remove the HVAC system. and see what going on. the Ac system will not have to be degassed but the heater hoses needs to be removed

problem is who you going to get to service the actual unit itself to ensure it seals off properly.??

I'd recommend you remove the dashboard then take the car to an AC shop so they can fix the HVAC unit. - the car wont be able to drive - so its best you have your AC tech come to you - if possible.
you can remove the HVAC unit take it to them then reinstall or take the entire car on a flat bed to the AC place.

[Abraham2nd]

hmm...okay skyline ur being so helpful to me mines is da manual one on top btw..
and its the hvac that pulling outside air?? is that u mean?? so i just need to seal the spaces it have? im gonna search up on this now .
I love u skyline

edit: hey bbuddy..isnt that to blend hot air in car? i doh want no hot ones lol..is there a way to take have no heater at all?? summin like this..but without buying it ;p i doh wah no hot ting

[skylinechild]

hmm...okay skyline ur being so helpful to me mines is da manual one on top btw..
and its the hvac that pulling outside air?? is that u mean?? so i just need to seal the spaces it have? im gonna search up on this now .
I love u skyline

edit: hey bbuddy..isnt that to blend hot air in car? i doh want no hot ones lol..is there a way to take have no heater at all?? summin like this..but without buying it ;p i doh wah no hot ting

i know yours is the manual one...
its quite possilbe the HVAC unit isnt sealing off properly cause if you can smell stuff outside from inside the cabin....and the recirculating lever is sticking - i'd say these two things are not just coincidence.

the HVAC has little flaps on it called blender doors these essentially open / close depend on the lever setting...

you can "blend" recirculating air with fresh air,
you can exchange all the cold air from inside the cabin with fresh air outside - ie "vent" - ie setting it to pull in fresh air (sliding the lever to the fresh air option)

the heater core is NOT used on the other hand - thats the lever from cold to hot.
when you slide the control from cold to hit it opens a valve inside the HVAC which the heater hoses are connected to pushing engine coolant thru a mini radiator inside the dash and the blower motor blows air across this and you get hot air coming out the vents.

think of the HVAC unit a a big square black box bolted to the firewall inside the car- with heater hoses and Ac lines running into it and venting tubes coming out from it going to the dashboard, floor and windscreen

it has flaps on the surface as well as flaps down inside of it. one of these little flaps needs to be fixed properly.

watch this vid by eric the car guy - he pulls out his HVAC unit and services it on his car- its a 3 part video so watch thru it..you'll learn a good few things.

note not ALL assemblies are made up like this - in his case he had to go thru all thats just to change the blower motor...why not simply buy a nissan...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StNJ7Gz1 ... BCE388E429

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga2DS5Q6 ... BCE388E429

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doP9z6l9 ... BCE388E429

[konartis]

i had this issue a really long time with a b13 A/c, got scammed by these AC men just changing everything and not doing anything, they dont know their work and its always a trial and error with them...i ended up by a mechanic who knew a little abit about AC and he changed out the compressor with a almera one and re-gased the system with the new gas, the condensor infront the car, i sprayed with purple blaster and cleaned it out, the AC began working really well, but i accepted the fact that the ac would not work like others, on hot days, i open the widows and let the air out then start the ac, helps also to have a good tint.

i hope you changed out the condenser as well...
R12 uses a serpentine condenser...
R134 uses a cross flow condenser.

it wasnt changed, that was some years ago, but what i did helped alot

[skylinechild]

i hope you changed out the condenser as well...
R12 uses a serpentine condenser...
R134 uses a cross flow condenser.

it wasnt changed, that was some years ago, but what i did helped alot

using a serpentine condenser is what is causing the ac not the function properly- and by you adding a fan just makes the condenser function better- but not efficient.

Its STILL one line moving back and forth thru the fins.

[skylinechild]

OP this is what the HVAC unit looks like
another tuner scrapped one out of his car.



look at the bottom right hand side of the pic you'll see two bronze pipes - this goes to the heater core.
then a little to the left you'll see a small rectangular connector with a piece of firm wire connecting to to the lever.

when you slide to hot it opens up a small PCV valve and lets engine coolant run thru the core and the blower motor blows out the hot air thru the vents.

this is NOT to be confused with the fresh air blender door which is at the top - the two rectangles you see with the sponges missing

[Abraham2nd]

OP this is what the HVAC unit looks like
another tuner scrapped one out of his car.



look at the bottom right hand side of the pic you'll see two bronze pipes - this goes to the heater core.
then a little to the left you'll see a small rectangular connector with a piece of firm wire connecting to to the lever.

when you slide to hot it opens up a small PCV valve and lets engine coolant run thru the core and the blower motor blows out the hot air thru the vents.

this is NOT to be confused with the fresh air blender door which is at the top - the two rectangles you see with the sponges missing

okay, one question is it sitting upright? so the two rectangular holes w/ sponge missing is top rite?

[skylinechild]

OP this is what the HVAC unit looks like
another tuner scrapped one out of his car.



look at the bottom right hand side of the pic you'll see two bronze pipes - this goes to the heater core.
then a little to the left you'll see a small rectangular connector with a piece of firm wire connecting to to the lever.

when you slide to hot it opens up a small PCV valve and lets engine coolant run thru the core and the blower motor blows out the hot air thru the vents.

this is NOT to be confused with the fresh air blender door which is at the top - the two rectangles you see with the sponges missing

okay, one question is it sitting upright? so the two rectangular holes w/ sponge missing is top rite?

yes its sitting upright based on the position of the two bronze pipes - they pass thru the firewall to connect the heater hoses.

here is the same HVAC unit - an exploded view of it


this is the blower motor assembly that sits to the side ( or possibly below) of the HVAC unit.


it is possible to remove the blower motor assembly from the car without removing anything from the HVAC system- you have to remove the glove box and gain access to it from there.

the HVAC unit sits behind the centre of the dash- so the dash has to be removed in order to get to the HVAC unit.

[Abraham2nd]

Next month im gonna paint my car (myself) lol im gonna scrap EVERY single ting and paint it...even dash ...(got some tear on top thats y.ima try fiberglass and paint it back.) so when its out... ill see if i can get that hvac unit out and seal everything i can lol (hope i dont seal the cold air one xD) but yeah..ima do that next month so. BUT THANK YOU!!! this looked like my problem all da time

EDIT: *dumb question alert* hey one more thing... should i block those two holes? idk if one is the recycling air passive lOL...see i block those two and i get no more breeze? xD

[skylinechild]

Next month im gonna paint my car (myself) lol im gonna scrap EVERY single ting and paint it...even dash ...(got some tear on top thats y.ima try fiberglass and paint it back.) so when its out... ill see if i can get that hvac unit out and seal everything i can lol (hope i dont seal the cold air one xD) but yeah..ima do that next month so. BUT THANK YOU!!! this looked like my problem all da time

EDIT: *dumb question alert* hey one more thing... should i block those two holes? idk if one is the recycling air passive lOL...see i block those two and i get no more breeze? xD

NO- you dont seal up anything - instead try to disassemble the HVAC unit- and see if if can fix the issue why its not sealing- more than likely i suspect one of those blender doors may be broken or something is jamming it and not sealing off properly.

dont forget the fresh air intake is by the wipers - the cowl so that needs to be removed as well to check that assembly. there may also be a trap down there to catch dead leaves and such- to prevent it from coming into the car-remove and clean and reinstall.

also to note there is sponge on some of the mating surfaces.. - see previous posted pic -
remove all the old sponge and install new ones...just go by the sponge factory with the measurements and they will cut it for you to fit exact. and use some simple adhesive - nothing with a strong scent - ie no evo stick / dunlop glue.

TIP - be sure to use slightly thicker sponge when doing this as both mating surfaces will have sponge -and sponge compresses when squeezed use a slightly thicker sponge to ensure a more airtight fit.

also be aware the HVAC has tubes running from it to the vents in the dash- these need to be removed- they can be washed in normal detergent to clean it.

this is what the HVAC unit looks like on the B13

[Abraham2nd]

*another dumb respond alert* why shouldnt i seal it? cuz i dont want no fresh air crap i want full ac :O

[skylinechild]

*another dumb respond alert* why shouldnt i seal it? cuz i dont want no fresh air crap i want full ac :O

oh gad bhai.. you sounding like a raj more an more ..

common sense - if you have something bad smelling in the car you can exchange the air inside the car with that of outside- without having to roll down all 4 windows and then back up...
also the filtration system -filters and such will filter out pollutants in the air outside before drawing it inside the car.

also in certain conditions the air outside may be better quality - like when youre driving thru heavily forested areas - alot of fresh air- as opposed to an old mouldy smelling Ac system ??

imagine if you want to do that..exchange air inside the car with air outside - all all 4 doors are manual...plus its raining... which sounds easier - sliding a leaver or taking down all 4 glasses in rain..and then winding them back up.

[Abraham2nd]

AH LIKE YUH BOI!!! YU IS DA MAN!!
I WISH the forum had a Thanks script ah wudda thank yuh
I love u man... ur the most helpful ive seen thus far... and syndicate

[X_Factor]

i realize that most of the time, once you mess with an A/C system it never works the same!

[skylinechild]

i realize that most of the time, once you mess with an A/C system it never works the same!

very much true but if you playin technician and screw up the system what you expect.
besides most AC techs only know the "cold" side of the system they forget it also has a "hot" side - granted we dont use the heater function here.

I'd like to leave the technical stuff to QUALIFIED mechanic technicians..not the mango tree type.

once you get a GOOD qualified technician who knows what the hell he / she is doing
(yes there are female technicians) you wont be in any problems.


OP talk to the syndicate he WILL help you out with the conversion to SR. he can also render assistance with looking for and buying parts and also doing the swap yourself - if you want to save on mechanic fees

[X_Factor]

I am also seeing a new trend where they do not even wanna vacuum the lines
they just put gas and tell the customer to start and rev the vehicle

[rane]

I am also seeing a new trend where they do not even wanna vacuum the lines
they just put gas and tell the customer to start and rev the vehicle

Na dats real scap... a proper ac man vaccum the lines an properly measure the gas using a scale not by guess

[Abraham2nd]

mines wasnt vacuumed ;( that last time :/

[gfbl]

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=602832

hey guys can you assist with my query above, thanks!

[gfbl]

any help?

[Abraham2nd]

lol view thief
pulling my hvac weekend CANT WAIT! =D

[Dragon001]

Hey you need to scrap the system pull every thing out. You need to wash the condenser coils and the evaporator coils. Drain all the oil from the compressor. flush all the internals except the compressor. put the required amount of oil in the compressor (poly ester). Change all the seals and change the drier, (it needs to be changed when the system is exposed to the atmosphere) vacuum for 30 mins and gas. this is assuming all things work good and no leaks. It is wise to pressure test before vacuum. If this don't work well I don't know what will. You should also research on lime how to do a retro fit it will help you understand a bit better